Onoff Posted March 5, 2017 Author Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) @Nickfromwales, what's the favourite here please, PTFE, jointing paste or just 'kin tight ? Cheers Edited March 5, 2017 by Onoff "right" to "tight"
Jeremy Harris Posted March 5, 2017 Posted March 5, 2017 I'm no expert, but I've always just tightened them up as they are, and I have a fair few fittings like this around. If it's inaccessible I sometimes change the rubber washer for a fibre one, but that's only because of one experience I had years ago where an almost impossible to get to tap connector developed a leak from a perished rubber washer. I took the view, rightly or wrongly, that a fibre washer was likely to have a longer life. Not sure that it's worth worrying about, really, though.
ProDave Posted March 5, 2017 Posted March 5, 2017 The rubber washer is the seal, so it should not need anything else, and should not need to be especially tight.
Nickfromwales Posted March 5, 2017 Posted March 5, 2017 +1. A bit more than hand tight is usually ample. Say 1/2 turn or so. Over tightening is bad for rubber washers as it leaves them no elasticity ?
joe90 Posted March 5, 2017 Posted March 5, 2017 I was a bit supprised to watch the Wunda underfloor heating u tube vid showing them using and advocating Ptfe tape for all joints including those with rubber o rings!!!. I like to use a little lubrication on olives and rubber o rings or washers to stop "grab".
Onoff Posted March 5, 2017 Author Posted March 5, 2017 Ta all. Maybe just a smidge of Jet Blue Plus then.
Nickfromwales Posted March 5, 2017 Posted March 5, 2017 On 05/03/2017 at 18:44, Onoff said: Ta all. Maybe just a smidge of Jet Blue Plus then. Expand No! Thatll make the rubber slip and cause it to leak. No compound or tape.
PeterW Posted March 5, 2017 Posted March 5, 2017 Now at this point I normally advocate Rectorseal .... ... and check the spelling carefully ..!!
Onoff Posted March 5, 2017 Author Posted March 5, 2017 Dancing to my own tune a bit but I've decided to eschew the Geberit wall fixings and instead use my own concoction. M10 studs Fischer resin anchored 100mm into the 9" block wall then studding connectors. Frame will thus be fixed 2 at the base, 2 up each side (into the studs)and these two into the wall behind. Going to line the old doorway behind with some 25mm EPS all the way up to keep things tidy: 1
Onoff Posted March 5, 2017 Author Posted March 5, 2017 Behind the wc was only ever going to be MR plasterboarded. To the right of the wc, the wet room corner was where it was to be floor to ceiling Aquaboard. I reckon that for the sake of adding a bit of 2"x2" up the stud to the right of the Aquaboard below I can use one, on end board to cover the wc frame. I'll put a noggin in then MR plasterboard above. Also, now I'm using the solvent weld soil fittings I don't have to worry about the collar thickness so won't have to put a packing strip on every stud!
Nickfromwales Posted March 6, 2017 Posted March 6, 2017 I've never used the aqua panel tbh, but it's deffo a more robust solution. I'd prob be inclined to use pink grip between the AP and the stud & WC frame to ensure that everything is uniform and secured well. I used self cutting countersunk machine screws on the last ones to secure the PB to the frame, but only where the pan meets the frame. Prob OTT, but I'm always a bit paranoid when doing the wall mounted WC's. You'll know what I mean when you come to tighten the pan back
Onoff Posted March 6, 2017 Author Posted March 6, 2017 On 06/03/2017 at 00:25, Nickfromwales said: I've never used the aqua panel tbh, but it's deffo a more robust solution. I'd prob be inclined to use pink grip between the AP and the stud & WC frame to ensure that everything is uniform and secured well. I used self cutting countersunk machine screws on the last ones to secure the PB to the frame, but only where the pan meets the frame. Prob OTT, but I'm always a bit paranoid when doing the wall mounted WC's. You'll know what I mean when you come to tighten the pan back Expand Good shout on the pink grip though it'll probably be whatever generic "sticks like" I've got as I need to start using stuff up rather than buying new. As for screws there's these that are apparently meant for the Aquapanel: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Aquapanel-Gold-Screws-39mm/p/224585 Don't look like they have ribs under the head for countersinking. Again, I've a load of st/st screws got from S'fix on clearance so will likely use them. The reviews however are generally in favour of the Knauf ones in the link.
PeterW Posted March 6, 2017 Posted March 6, 2017 On 06/03/2017 at 07:19, Onoff said: Good shout on the pink grip though it'll probably be whatever generic "sticks like" I've got as I need to start using stuff up rather than buying new. As for screws there's these that are apparently meant for the Aquapanel: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Aquapanel-Gold-Screws-39mm/p/224585 Don't look like they have ribs under the head for countersinking. Again, I've a load of st/st screws got from S'fix on clearance so will likely use them. The reviews however are generally in favour of the Knauf ones in the link. Expand Use the Knauf ones ..! They are coated not to rust and cut through the board without drilling. You risk shearing a st/st one unless it's top quality. They only get put in just flush with the surface of the board anyway - not like PB where you want them to pull in slightly. 2
Onoff Posted March 6, 2017 Author Posted March 6, 2017 On 06/03/2017 at 07:53, PeterW said: Use the Knauf ones ..! They are coated not to rust and cut through the board without drilling. You risk shearing a st/st one unless it's top quality. They only get put in just flush with the surface of the board anyway - not like PB where you want them to pull in slightly. Expand Wickes it is then!
Onoff Posted March 6, 2017 Author Posted March 6, 2017 Just thinking.....I don't have a template with this Geberit frame..... Oh well, measure thrice etc!
Nickfromwales Posted March 6, 2017 Posted March 6, 2017 Use a pinkgrip / similar hard setting adhesive, NOT a silicone or part ( soft ) setting one. You need zero compression behind there when you tighten those bolts up.
Onoff Posted March 6, 2017 Author Posted March 6, 2017 On 06/03/2017 at 00:25, Nickfromwales said: I've never used the aqua panel tbh, but it's deffo a more robust solution. I'd prob be inclined to use pink grip between the AP and the stud & WC frame to ensure that everything is uniform and secured well. Expand As in apply the "pink grip" to the (blue) metal frame too as well as the timber studs? On 06/03/2017 at 00:25, Nickfromwales said: I used self cutting countersunk machine screws on the last ones to secure the PB to the frame, but only where the pan meets the frame. Prob OTT, but I'm always a bit paranoid when doing the wall mounted WC's. You'll know what I mean when you come to tighten the pan back Expand As in screws that go through the AP and into the metal frame? How about this MS polymer adhesive...only 'cos I've got some? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p89121?mkwid=sJfnABj8u_dc&pcrid=142453205744&pkw=&pmt=&product=89121&gclid=CKTElPm0wtICFaMy0wodsCgL_Q Cheers
Onoff Posted March 6, 2017 Author Posted March 6, 2017 By the power of Fosters: 17, 54 & 95mm standard Starrett cutters. My first rodeo doing this so happy enough. Just got to cut the rectangle out for the flush plate now! 1
Onoff Posted March 25, 2017 Author Posted March 25, 2017 Decided I couldn't live without access to the flexible tap connector going to the cistern. So...out with the multi tool:
Nickfromwales Posted March 25, 2017 Posted March 25, 2017 Put the multitool down and go to the fridge. ??
Onoff Posted March 25, 2017 Author Posted March 25, 2017 On 25/03/2017 at 14:29, Nickfromwales said: Put the multitool down and go to the fridge. ?? Expand Some hope, playing Dad's taxi to a roller disco. Soon be home sniffing the Fischer resin!
Gone West Posted March 25, 2017 Posted March 25, 2017 On 06/03/2017 at 17:35, Onoff said: As in apply the "pink grip" to the (blue) metal frame too as well as the timber studs? Expand I glued packing pieces to the metal frame where the pan is bolted through to prevent the board being bent towards the frame when tightening up the bolts. IIRC it was only around 2mm gap.
Nickfromwales Posted March 25, 2017 Posted March 25, 2017 With the backer / cement board I found plenty of PG sufficed. Pushing the CB back displaces the PG and the gaps keep what they want. Allow a good 24/48 hrs for it to fully cure before cranking the loo back, but given this is @Onoff's bathroom it should be long gone off!
ProDave Posted March 25, 2017 Posted March 25, 2017 On 25/03/2017 at 14:29, Nickfromwales said: Put the multitool down and go to the fridge. ?? Expand Is that the one he's going to saw in half for @Crofter ? 2
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