Zoot wood balcony job.

[zoothorn]

9 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

You misunderstand, post the link if you can. There's ways of finding out. 

Ok #3 someone asked ' is it this one? ' & linked to..

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-p-polyester-styrene-free-resin-380ml/42772

 

(I was prolly naiively thinking there was 1 ficher resin when doing the thread you see).

 

So the answer of whether or not this -was- the stuff I was using.. I didn't even seem to conclude. Just how to use it from then on.

 

Trawling "fischer fis p" today gets me to toolstation, & this product, but as I didn't say " yes that is the one I'm using " I'm not sure it was the one... .& now deluged with countless other similsr ones here & screwfix too.

 

Can't cope. I just buy your one you suggested today Onoff. Monday. Zh

Edited August 6, 2022 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

On 05/07/2022 at 23:18, Onoff said:

Washers I have to hand are M16 and M20.

 

ID/OD is 17/30mm and 21/37mm respectively. Forgot to measure the thickness but would guess 1.5. - 2mm

 

Hi Onoff. Made a start on ledger board. Drilled 7 holes in it 1st,  wedged/ offered it up, marked my two outer holes on wall. Drilled in my 80mm with 14mm bit.
 

I've enlarged the flat wood bit render area.. to just squeeze in.. the smaller flat washer in the pic here. 22mm width.
 

Can you remind me. Was this washer intended for here, in the box of goodies? If notI need to replace what this was going to be for. Or maybe a late addition, for my tube " press onto it " idea?
 

When I mean here: to reiterrate: I think I definitely need something for tube to " press " against, not for it to press onto the block as the face is uneven & crumbling (a sharpish tube.. will cut in Im sure of it).

 

Thanks, zh

 

 

[zoothorn]

Chaps,

 

I think I'm set to fill my outer two holes & set the 200mm rods in with the fischer stuff.

 

What I need to know is how the rod can be centred, in the resin-filled hole, in order for it to set properly. Surely it'll sink down, being sticking out from the wall. Or the front extended 12mm's weight, will cause the front to dip down.

 

My concrete pads job, this was vertical rod.. so whatever I did to centre it within the resin filled hole, was made much easier.

 

Thanks, zh

[markc]

Put the timber back in place and then set the rods, or push a small twig into the hole under the bolt to keep it level

[Onoff]

Matchsticks or cocktail stick to help keep the studs level.

 

Put the smaller washer at the back of the tube if you want. I can't remember what it was for! 😂

[zoothorn]

6 hours ago, markc said:

Put the timber back in place and then set the rods, or push a small twig into the hole under the bolt to keep it level

Aha bingo thanks markc. 
 

@Onoff same fischer stuff as my cabin pads, you were right   ( i have a same red nozzle thing from that job/ matches this tube bought today).

 

As per that job tho, the fischer instructions are absurd. No idea at all. Ok I've brushed out hole, & vac'd it well. All set.

 

So can you remind me is it fill hole, twist rod in, offer timer up ( & wedge in place) put markc twig in place.. then wait for an hour? And then i can tighten a nut on? Seems remarkably soon to do so.

Thanks Zoothorn

 

 

 

 

[markc]

@zoothorn if you are putting timber in place then no need to wedge the threaded rod unless it will always be seen so you need it looking perfect.

most chem fix will be hard in an hour to tighten nut (check on tube). If you are unsure, spin nut on finger tight, set all the other anchors then come back and tighten everything up after a day or so.

[joe90]

Been away and missed all this…spirit levels, yes bubble tube is bent so only works the right way up, it’s concave so when level the bubble is at the highest point (the middle).

[zoothorn]

14 hours ago, Onoff said:

Matchsticks or cocktail stick to help keep the studs level.

 

Put the smaller washer at the back of the tube if you want. I can't remember what it was for! 😂

The extra washers will be useful shims Ive just thought: getting the line of 4 stud tubes level wont be easy.

 

Just getting the 2 outer studs in, with the ledger on, isn't yet clear to me.
 

Ok do I A) fill my two holes, offer timber up, put rod through timber it & into wall? Then use a twig get it centred. IE forget the washer/ tube/ square washer between them for this. 

 

Problem here, is once set the hardened squeezed out resin will inhibit the 1st washer sitting flat on the block.
 

Or B) just fill one hole, twist rod in, wipe off resin excess. No timber yet. Wait 1 hour, put washer/ tube/ sqaure washer on. Timber on LHS. Lift up RHS pivoting on this firm stud. 
 

Prob with B is how do I get this rod to set & sticking out without drooping, bodging up my timber from getiing it level?
 

 

[zoothorn]

I cannot make head nor tail of the fischer instruction. So infuriating.

 

Sorry chaps I need help how to use this stuff. I understand the nozzle mixes the stuff, & I have 3 nozzles (+1 from prior job).

 

1. Do I fill the hole full, half full?

2. I'm doing the first 2 holes together/ same time.. then an hour's wait: so is this nozzle then removed, binned, the cap put back on.. & it's then useable again with nozzle 2?

3. Is it 1 hour set time? Or a day?

 

I see a YouTube clip, but so many types/ tubes of this stuff I don't know if the clip applies to my stuff.

 

Thanks, zh

[zoothorn]

@joe90 can you help.

 

I need to wait hours between putting the resin in, stud no.1, until this set... to then lift up timber onto it, put resin in hole 2.

 

What do I do with the resin tube, once hole 1 filled? Do I immediately remove the nozzle & put cap on tube?

 

Or leave nozzle on, & switch nozzles later?

 

IE How are you to use two nozzles with this stuff?

 

thx zoot

[markc]

Chemical isn’t an exact science, amount of resin depends on hole diameter and diameter of the rod you are sticking in it. Assuming 16mm rod then hole should be 18mm so roughly half full would give sufficient fill plus some squeeze out.

taking nozzle off and clean end of tube to keep remaining resin from going off.

put a bit of squeeze out to one side and you will see how fast it goes off and becomes very hard.

hole cleanliness and good mixer nozzles are the key to secure fixing.

don’t stress over it, drill the holes, put piece in place, squeeze resin in and twist fixing into hole … counter clockwise ideally as this causes threads to push resin deep into hole

[zoothorn]

6 minutes ago, markc said:

Chemical isn’t an exact science, amount of resin depends on hole diameter and diameter of the rod you are sticking in it. Assuming 16mm rod then hole should be 18mm so roughly half full would give sufficient fill plus some squeeze out.

taking nozzle off and clean end of tube to keep remaining resin from going off.

put a bit of squeeze out to one side and you will see how fast it goes off and becomes very hard.

hole cleanliness and good mixer nozzles are the key to secure fixing.

don’t stress over it, drill the holes, put piece in place, squeeze resin in and twist fixing into hole … counter clockwise ideally as this causes threads to push resin deep into hole

Hi markc,

 

so once my first two holes filled 2/3rds or so... I am to remove the nozzle, & put the cap back on?

 

Not keep the nozzle on, & switch them over this afternoon when needing to continue filling other holes?

 

Thanks, zoot

[TonyT]

 

I would temp fix the timber in place with a long screw at either end, fill all the holes, insert rods with a twisting action and leave for the time advised due to the air temperature setting.

 

Or brave with timbers wedged in place instead of screws, it’s really your call.

 

I just prefer to do all the resin in one go to prevent wastage/hardening in the tube.

[markc]

54 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Hi markc,

 

so once my first two holes filled 2/3rds or so... I am to remove the nozzle, & put the cap back on?

 

Not keep the nozzle on, & switch them over this afternoon when needing to continue filling other holes?

 

Thanks, zoot

Either is ok as the two parts tend to stay apart until part way up nozzle

[zoothorn]

Thanks, got two studs in ok. Kept nozzle on.

 

Innevitably board slightly wrong positions tho- drilling perfectly  straight into wall.. was never gonna happen.

 

So. Ive got my ledger board 5mm too high ( its jammed underneath the doors sill: I had allowed a 5mm gap, but this has fkd off into ether then).

 

Can I enlarge my two 13mm timber outer holes, to a 16mm hole ok? Or even a 18mm hole? M12 stud.

 

I mean does it hamper these two fixings if two bigger timber outer holes? The timber will of course sit 'down' upon the tops of these 2 big holes, plus the other 5 holes are drilled at 13mm, I'll get these following 5 better aligned now the damn thing is actually up in place, albeit temporarily to mark their 5 places onto the wall spot on.

 

Thanks, zoot.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 9, 2022 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

[PeterW]

14 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Can I enlarge my two 13mm timber outer holes, to a 16mm hole ok? Or even a 18mm hole? M12 stud.

Yep fine - but pushing it up tight under the cill may be ok. How thick are your boards and how thick is the edge of the cill..??

[zoothorn]

7 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Yep fine - but pushing it up tight under the cill may be ok. How thick are your boards and how thick is the edge of the cill..??

Hi Peter I needed to enlarge both to unstick it from cill.. then LH one even more to 20mm, as I had it a bit off level.
 

Acceptably level now. Strewth taken me all morning just that.

 

I want rightup to cill ( bar 5mm safety gap/ now got) as Im scrimping for every inch in H of the balcony. The last consequence of the build a foot-too-low fiasco. Argh. It'll be stupidly low as it is you see. Head H the deck, from drive. Double argh.

 

 

 

 

[Onoff]

You could glue in a round of timber, let it set and re-drill the hole(s).

 

Made a start though so 👍

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

You could glue in a round of timber, let it set and re-drill the hole(s).

 

Made a start though so 👍

 

 

 

 

Good god the time this is taking..

 

4 hours to drill & prep two more holes. So got one more stud in.. then I go to use gun to fill hole no.4 ( 2 mins after filled & studded hole no.3).. & nozzle rock hard.

 

So. I've got to tomorrow: drill & prep holes 5,6,7. Then fill all in one go, & get washers in, then studs in & centred.. with one ( thank god) nozzle left. 
 

The problem is prepping the front of the holes, so a flat (23mm) washer can sit within it. When I have only a 22mm flat  bit to do it with. And the render so thick & deep on a hump, I cant see what im doing well at all. Awful job.

 

Also, how do I get my top line of three tubes, level with the lower row of 4? The lower 4 Ive used a stringline. But Ineed to get these, plumb withthe top 3.

[markc]

Easier to drill and counterbore the timber first, then drill straight through into the wall, blow holes out, get any packers ready, have a cup of tea, fill the holes and get the rods in.

[Onoff]

Sounds like you need a 24mm flat wood bit. 

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, markc said:

Easier to drill and counterbore the timber first, then drill straight through into the wall, blow holes out, get any packers ready, have a cup of tea, fill the holes and get the rods in.

Omg you make it sound sound so easy markc! And indeed it is to you.. but not for me. Not 1st time with 12mm rod, & my wavey davey pita render. 
 

For eg, the 12mm rod, to deburr the ends to get a nut on.. took me 2 hours last night alone! 
 

Downhill once ledger up, & sheep 'celebration' accomplished.
 

 

[zoothorn]

53 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Sounds like you need a 24mm flat wood bit. 

Yup but not got & will have to make do with my 22mm & waggle it about.

 

Thanks- nuts & the 22+mm washers spot on in fact. Zoot