Mini Stove > Cabin job.

[ProDave]

Have a look here https://www.flue-pipes.com/

 

That is about the cheapest I could find and where I bought all mine from.  They have several guides how to do it.

 

Where it goes through the roof, you usually have to cut a hole 50mm larger than the flue (so all combustible materials remain 50mm from the flue) and then cover inside with a stainless steel plate and outside with a flashing kit.  Others will have to advise what flashing you need for your shed roof.

 

Yes the flue pipes are expensive. I spent more on flue pipe than I did on the stove.

[zoothorn]

19 hours ago, ProDave said:

Have a look here https://www.flue-pipes.com/

 

That is about the cheapest I could find and where I bought all mine from.  They have several guides how to do it.

 

Where it goes through the roof, you usually have to cut a hole 50mm larger than the flue (so all combustible materials remain 50mm from the flue) and then cover inside with a stainless steel plate and outside with a flashing kit.  Others will have to advise what flashing you need for your shed roof.

 

Yes the flue pipes are expensive. I spent more on flue pipe than I did on the stove.

Great help ProDave. Im toying with this idea now ( due to chimney being both 1.5ft back, away from my birch tree next cabin this side, & also bit further away from abusive n'bors who'll likely protest this stove). Idea being thus: exit the flue 45* thru back cabin wall > out, another 45* & up. Got a 6" roof overhang at the back to navigate around the only fly in my zootsoup. I think actually you mentioned this alternative idea.

 

Im wondering if this exit might be simpler than working ontop of roof, cutting hole in it etc, flashing xyz & final felting. Might I be able to go all single flue like so too.. saving a heap maybe.

 

It surely would be an easier a battle against rain/ water ingress, this back wall both covered by my 6" roof overhang, & also away from rain: this farside outer wall rarely gets hit by rain.

 

Thanks. Zoot.
 

 

[joe90]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

abusive n'bors who'll likely protest this stove).

🖕

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Im wondering if this exit might be simpler than working ontop of roof,

I tend to agree that a hole in the wall, especially under a 6” overhang, will be less problematic than one in the roof!!!

[saveasteading]

Going through a wall reduces the risk of leaks through the roof, as closing off is tricky.

In theory the flue should be straight if possible, but 2 x 45deg is ok.

 

The main issue with going through the wall will be taking the flue high enough to comply with the rules about being above the ridge.

at that height the flue is very vulnerable to wind, so needs guy lines and struts to brace it.

[Onoff]

48 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Going through a wall reduces the risk of leaks through the roof, as closing off is tricky.

In theory the flue should be straight if possible, but 2 x 45deg is ok.

 

The main issue with going through the wall will be taking the flue high enough to comply with the rules about being above the ridge.

at that height the flue is very vulnerable to wind, so needs guy lines and struts to brace it.

 

Could he say concrete in a scaffold pole nice and plumb and attach his flue to that? 

[ProDave]

Just strap the flue to the side of the shed with stand off brackets.  It will need to remain 50mm away from the overhanging eaves but you can get adjustable stand off brackets.

 

1M above the ridge is usually all that's needed. That's all I have on the static caravan.

[saveasteading]

3 minutes ago, ProDave said:

1M above the ridge

is a long way above the eaves....which I had assumed....but if coming out of the gable near the ridge it isn't so much of an issue.  The bends will be a bit flexible so the scaffold tube to clamp to  isn't such a bad idea.

 

[saveasteading]

Tinny details questions coming from the BCO today before issuing a warrant.

So this discussion has been timely, as the subject was already on the screen, incl ducting supplier and details. thanks.

We have suddenly chosen exact makes of wood stoves before turning a sod on site.....I didn't think this was how it worked but hey, ho.

Now to choose an alarm manufacturer, and the make of breather membrane.

Just selecting well known names for now. Tyvek is twice the price of others but the name will be recognised.

 

I would normally say 'or equivalent' but am pretending certainty.

[ProDave]

Our building warrant went in with a random make of stove, and what we fitted was quite different.  At completion they just needed the manual for the stove to confirm the required "distances to combustible materials" and confirm it was HEATAS approved.

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, saveasteading said:

Going through a wall reduces the risk of leaks through the roof, as closing off is tricky.

In theory the flue should be straight if possible, but 2 x 45deg is ok.

 

The main issue with going through the wall will be taking the flue high enough to comply with the rules about being above the ridge.

at that height the flue is very vulnerable to wind, so needs guy lines and struts to brace it.

T
Hi ProDave. Im not needing to do this stove install to BRegs. Its more like your caravan job. Noone is going to come here, see it, or are aware this is being built. All I need do is make sure it is safe enough, inside/ where I am following your BRegs info. The 1m above the ridge... no way. This would create a big silver eyesore giving n'bors cause to complain ( & means 1m extra cost too)& then a BRegs person might be here. As long as there's no safety issue not having this excessive 1m above ridge chimney protrusion, then Im going much less height. The chimney from stove to hat will be 2m'.

 

I just need the cowell/ tippy top approx in line with the roof ridge. Approx 3 ft above eaves. It is then almost all hidden from n'bors pov. Ive pushed the boundary-bar building the cabin you see, I can't tempt fate by having a huge silver protruding chimney, ontop of the smoke that will innevitably occasionally drift their way. 
 

Thanks. Zoot.

 

 

[ProDave]

Try it and see,  you need the flue a certain length to create a draw. that's why you often see a very long guyed flue from a single storey building.

[saveasteading]

29 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

As long as there's no safety issue

up to you but be aware that the smoke may not disappear tidily, resulting in mucky roof and perhaps an erratic draught at the fire.

you can always add a bit on top once the initial works have gone unnoticed.

[PeterW]

@zoothornyou can get black twin wall that is less obtrusive 

[zoothorn]

16 hours ago, PeterW said:

@zoothornyou can get black twin wall that is less obtrusive 

Hi Peter, aha didn't know this. But if I go 45* out behind stove thru wall then another 45* outside, & up, flue attatching to the backside roof overhang ( only place I could attach it).... would I need twin at all?

 

I thought the idea of twin stuff, is to isolate heat from adjacent  interior walls. Surely if vast majority of single flue outside, the heat will dissipate & the nearest outer wall ( overhang about 10") wouldn't be in any danger of getting hot at all really.

 

Just considering most cost effective way to do the flue you see. Thanks, zh

[joe90]

The other reason for twin wall is to allow the inner skin to heat up more and quicker to create a “draw”, for the occasional use perhaps single skin might do 🤷‍♂️. I like the idea of a scaffold pole to fix it too. 👍

Edited March 17, 2022 by joe90

[Iceverge]

Twin skin all the way if possible.

 

Better draft, cleaner combustion. More control over the stove, less tarring, lower risk of chimney fire. 

 

@saveasteadingour builder used tyvek supro on the house but I actually preferred the protect vp400 I used on the garage. The price was similar. 

Edited March 17, 2022 by Iceverge

[Onoff]

2 hours ago, joe90 said:

I like the idea of a scaffold pole to fix it too. 👍

 

Plus it's somewhere for him to proudly fly the English flag and attract even more unwelcome attention from his neighbours!

[saveasteading]

2 hours ago, Iceverge said:

I actually preferred the protect vp400 I used on the garage.

Thanks. We were going to say Tyvec supra because it wouldn't get a second's thought from the bco. However, after further research, and as we are using metal cladding, we are going for Klober Permasec metal. It says all the right things whereas Tyvek doesn't quite.

I say 'going for' but I mean showing it on the drawings. Have a few months to research further as it is very expensive. Want a good job, but paying more is not the only way towards that.

 

[saveasteading]

Protect VP400 PLUS LR is a highly vapour permeable roof underlay. It offers the lowest vapour resistance of any Type LR roofing underlay in its class, and yet it remains airtight. It is suitable for use in all pitched roofs without the need to seal the laps, ensuring fortuitous ventilation.

 

Do you feel lucky, Ventilation?

[zoothorn]

Chaps,

 

The twin flue idea is working out extremely expensive especially so if i exit the back via two 45* as I also need then a front plate sweeping hole ( i think): all of which pushing the cost upto 3/4 of the stove itself.

 

Need to reevaluate.

 

Ive seen only thin flues coming from these tiny stoves in eg's so, I will have to assume this is feasable.. & go this way. And straight up.

 

So the only work really involves the roof hole & how to isolate the hot pipe from the roof.

 

Thanks, Zoot.

 

 

[PeterW]

@zoothorn you will set fire to the cabin - you need to use twin wall. 
 

Start looking on Facebook - this isn’t far from you I think and it’s £50.. 

[PeterW]

@zoothorn

 

What diameter is the hole in the top of the stove..?

 

How far is it from top of stove to bottom of the roof ..?

 

 

[ProDave]

You NEED twin wall through the wall.  Most twin wall flues are rated to be 50mm from combustible material.  A single wall has to be more like 300mm or more from combustible material, that would be one BIG hole in the wall and dangerously hot for anyone passing the cabin to touch.

[zoothorn]

45 minutes ago, PeterW said:

@zoothorn

 

What diameter is the hole in the top of the stove..?

 

How far is it from top of stove to bottom of the roof ..?

 

 

Hi Peter,

 

it's a tiddly 4" hole. And stove top to ceiling is 1450mm.

 

I realise I need twin stuff actually through the roof. And I know 400mm the twin needs to start -before- the ceiling.

 

So it has to be single flue up 1m from stove, twin up from there 1m. Roof approx midway along the twin. Exterior flue will therefore rise about 550mm above roof.

 

This leaves only 300mm of cabin wall to consider, being 'exposed' behind the single flue, as my tall'ish stove heat panels extend up above top of stove by 300mm.

 

Thanks, zoot.

[PeterW]

Right. So you need a 1m length of stove pipe , a twin wall to enamel adapter and then a 1m length of twin wall and a cap. 
 

Did you look at that link I sent..??