Extension- Last Stuff.

[dangti6]

If there’s a dwang in the way, take it out. 
 

On the bright side you can use that one end. Cash back.

[PeterW]

@zoothorn do what everyone else does and work off the steps. TBH that is still plenty of space for storage and you can roll stuff out from the hatch. Just fit it and it’s done. 
 

Slightly worrying is that doesn’t meet building regs and should have min 300mm up there ...

[zoothorn]

14 minutes ago, PeterW said:

@zoothorn do what everyone else does and work off the steps. TBH that is still plenty of space for storage and you can roll stuff out from the hatch. Just fit it and it’s done. 
 

Slightly worrying is that doesn’t meet building regs and should have min 300mm up there ...

But I think its too high to work off the steps (2.3m ceiling h) tbh i dont even know how im able to add these two nogs, let alone stretch and add more fluff.

 

if it should be 300 mm then Builder should come back and add 100 mm.. but he'll deliberately then side with my n'bor, cause me stress/ so its not worth it.

 

i just need to get hatch in for now. 

[zoothorn]

46 minutes ago, dangti6 said:

If there’s a dwang in the way, take it out. 
 

On the bright side you can use that one end. Cash back.

theyre not actually nogs, but bracing perp to and ontop of the joists. i wouldnt want to cut these, as they go 2.4 m or whatever, part of adding rigidity, i assume.

[zoothorn]

Can anyone help. im trying to put these two nogs in at the ends. One is feasable to do, tho how i can get access to the backside in order to get a drill driver to it ive no idea.

 

its the other end nog i cannot see how its possible at all. Ok i have some bracing across the tops of the joists, some sort of rigidity brace thing..   and two are in exact position hampering where the nog is to go. I cannot/ do not want to cut these braces, and redo as a nog/ this will ruin idea of these braces totally.

 

so.. can this hatch be put in without a nog one end? So it only attatches to the pb here.

[zoothorn]

Here are the two braces ontop the joists

 

[joe90]

Yes these are standard braces, you will have to wriggle your noggin in and screw in from the backs .then screw plasterboard to it/them.

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Yes these are standard braces, you will have to wriggle your noggin in and screw in from the backs .then screw plasterboard to it/them.

 

Hi joe- I can't understand 'screw in from the backs'.

 

All I can see how to do this, is to get a nog precisely 7.2mm in height, in order to fit in this gap, vertically. But there is nigh on 0.1% chance of finding such a bit of timber. Then if I find this, I can't see how I can get access to it, in order to fix both ends in.

 

The only way I can see of fixing in, is from the top, down, thru this brace you can see > down into the 7.2mm H nog. But then it won't be fixed in at either L or R end.. so it won't have any solidity.

[TonyT]

climb up and move the insulation.....

[Onoff]

Right angled driver might help...DeWalt the best attachment imho for going on a cordless drill but pricey though. Lidl/Aldi often do them.

 

 

Or cut your noggin to a nice fit. Push it in with a couple of loose bits of timber to stop it going in too far then pop some screws in on the angle. Probably easiest.

 

 

[Onoff]

4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

All I can see how to do this, is to get a nog precisely 7.2mm in height, in order to fit in this gap, vertically.

 

If you don't have the tools?

 

Most of us would run a bit of 4x2 through a table saw. You could hand saw a bit down along its length with a decent sharp saw. Top might be a bit off square but so what. Jigsaw it even.....

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

If you don't have the tools?

 

Most of us would run a bit of 4x2 through a table saw. You could hand saw a bit down along its length with a decent sharp saw. Top might be a bit off square but so what. Jigsaw it even.....

 

Well I know most would use a tablesaw.. Id do so if I had one. I'll have to circ saw it maybe from each side/ hope for the best.

 

Afaict the nog in this (pic)^ end doesn't need -perhaps- to be load-bearing (me being the load) bc the brace above it can do this. IE if a ladder is rested it can go on this brace, then I can stand on it too (if I ever need to- I honest;y dont think Im ever coming up here again). So the new nog below only needs to be something the hatch frame fixes to this end. So if I can get a precise 7.2mm cut piece, to squeeze in here, it can be fixed from the top/ that's all I can do. maybe 1 nail in rhs end.

 

 

 

[dangti6]

You could even make a rectangle frame down on the ground to the size of your opening, lift it up and affix along the trusses. Depends how much of an edge your new plastic hatch has.

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, dangti6 said:

You could even make a rectangle frame down on the ground to the size of your opening, lift it up and affix along the trusses. Depends how much of an edge your new plastic hatch has.

 

Yes thats perhaps what I shoulda done.. but Im on last leg/ got the tricky nog in albeit not ideal. I just want to close the damn thing now asap/ cant deal with the fiberglass. thx dangti6

 

 

[Onoff]

That nog doesn't have to be one piece at 72mm. You could make it up out of stacked, thinner bits with some glue in between for belt and braces. You must have some offcuts around? 

 

 

 

[TonyT]

Put the screws in at 45 deg angle on the timber.

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, TonyT said:

Put the screws in at 45 deg angle on the timber.

Hi Tonyt.. yes I've done just that. Got both nogs nice and solid.

 

Done it and pulled orange fluff back over hatch. Hopefully Not ever going up there again!

 

I just hope I havent made it less soundproof with this addition.. have a feeling it is. Live and learn. I guess i could make a hinged pb and insulation lid to bring down before the hatch is closed if so.

 

thanks for help on this. Back to the porch job tmrw.

[PeterW]

10 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Hi Tonyt.. yes I've done just that. Got both nogs nice and solid.

 

Done it and pulled orange fluff back over hatch. Hopefully Not ever going up there again!

 

I just hope I havent made it less soundproof with this addition.. have a feeling it is. Live and learn. I guess i could make a hinged pb and insulation lid to bring down before the hatch is closed if so.

 

thanks for help on this. Back to the porch job tmrw.

So are you going to get some more insulation and get it up there ..?? Not a difficult job to do and more is better for sound and heat insulation 

[dpmiller]

seems not?

[zoothorn]

11 minutes ago, PeterW said:

So are you going to get some more insulation and get it up there ..?? Not a difficult job to do and more is better for sound and heat insulation 

Well if i put any more  up it'll sort of half fill the entire loft. There's so much more orange fluff than i thought you see, so im assuming now it isnt badly insulated after all, as id sort of hoped to find up there. Id think if i put any more up it'll likely show little results.. but thats a hunch.
 

So the myster6 rema8ns as to why this room is so cold with a rad twice the size of room below. Door, yes, by putting a temp blanket up i can get a tiny bi5 of heat retained/ felt in the room. But i still have to wear hat and scarf all the time even with heat8ng on for many hours.

 

Hence thinking i need a seriously insulated door, but im a5 a loss now. I just th8nk it'll neve4 be established, always be a mystery.. unless somehow the cold introduction can be determined, by a definitive test, but i dont th8nk there is such a th8ng.

 

I think 

[Declan52]

So exactly how deep is the insulation in total. I want it in mm or cm but an actual measurement using a tape or ruler. 

I have Xcm between the joists.

I have Xcm over the joists.

 

 

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

So the myster6 rema8ns as to why this room is so cold

 

Could it be the big hole in the ceiling? ?

 

Seriously, have you any major draughts? Maybe light a smoking joss stick and go round the window? (French doors isn't it?)

[zoothorn]

5 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Could it be the big hole in the ceiling? ?

 

Seriously, have you any major draughts? Maybe light a smoking joss stick and go round the window? (French doors isn't it?)

 

Job done Onoff. Hatch is in. Orange fluff pulled over it too.

 

No draughts I'm sure. But that's a good idea/ will do if I buy some. I'm wondering if the dividing floor, which if you recall I put rockwool slab in, has created a cold void above it & below the caber floor.. IE cold streaming in the sides, filling this ~ 4" or so. The floor feels cold above, but, so does everything tbh. The rockwool seems to be working well as a 'containing lid' to the toasty lower room tho.

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, Declan52 said:

So exactly how deep is the insulation in total. I want it in mm or cm but an actual measurement using a tape or ruler. 

I have Xcm between the joists.

I have Xcm over the joists.

 

 

 

I'll get this info more accurately tmrw Declan.

 

Its a general mish mash some parts well over 200mm deep, maybe 3x layers, and all heavy enough to have sunk into & between the joists. But mostly its 2x 100mm layers it seems just fairly put perp over the joists. Not much pattern or care to it, but its far thicker than I thought to find.

[joe90]

Insulation is fine but it only stops heat that you have from escaping quickly. If your heating is not working as it should all the insulation in the world will not make the place warm. I have masses of insulation in my new build but if the heating stops working eventually the place will go cold.

Edited December 15, 2020 by joe90