Pocster Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 7 minutes ago, Onoff said: @pocster, allow me to assist you in spending your money: https://www.tileexperience.co.uk/schluter-kerdi-board-niches? https://www.wedi.de/en/products/building-systems/shelving-and-cladding/sanwell-niches/ Thermopanel another make. Of course you could eschew the ready made versions and make your own like all the best people do... Oh I really really like them ! . What idiot would even contemplate making their own !?!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 1 minute ago, pocster said: Oh I really really like them ! . What idiot would even contemplate making their own !?!!! I don't have deep pockets like some! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 19 minutes ago, Onoff said: Slacker! Why's it going to take so long? The fitter says I keep changing requirements and adding things. eg I added in sound insulation when the self builder had left a lot out. I added half a day’s work to the other bathroom. Etc. F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 (edited) 7 minutes ago, pocster said: Oh I really really like them ! . What idiot would even contemplate making their own !?!!! Niches are far too 1980s “look THIS Barrett house is posh”. A bit El Dorado. Will they be having gold painted papier-mâché Cupids in them? Edited October 4, 2019 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 31 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: Niches are far too 1980s “look THIS Barrett house is posh”. A bit El Dorado. Will they be having gold painted papier-mâché Cupids in them? They look very smart when done in a sympathetic manner. I always try to do them the size of one full tile missing from the wall. No more fruit punch for you tonight 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 36 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: Niches are far too 1980s “look THIS Barrett house is posh”. A bit El Dorado. Will they be having gold painted papier-mâché Cupids in them? Dont care. I've just had a rainfall shower with Dash Berlin and Emma Hewitt and only the pocket lights to illuminate things. Feeling very chilled.....could be the lack of heating mind..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 10 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: They look very smart when done in a sympathetic manner. I always try to do them the size of one full tile missing from the wall. No more fruit punch for you tonight Admit I found a well-discounted Malbec in Tesco this evening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 15 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: Admit I found a well-discounted Malbec in Tesco this evening. I decide what wine to drink on a case by case basis. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 (edited) Right! I'm back on this! So those holes I have left for my bath/shower tray etc. I was going to insulation and fill with screed. But this seems pointless. Could I not just cement some blocks in and screw render board or marine ply onto them? Assuming that's ok .... I intend to treat the bathroom and ensuite as though they were wet rooms - but both will have shower trays. I assume once I've got my wastes/ supplies in ( and filled those holes) I just waterproof with impey or similar all around and effectively under where my tray is going? Here's the 'hole' for the shower tray (even though it will be almost flush with finished tiled floor. Edited December 2, 2019 by pocster thickness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 So ! If I build up my level in that hole and fit a tray I’ll never be able to access the trap from underneath as beam & block floor . This an issue ? . Or is it only an issue when it’s a problem !! ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 (edited) We have same. Use a "top access" trap. McAlpine and others make them. The water seal in these is formed by concentric tubes instead of a U bend. The inner tube can be removed from above to clean the trap. Never need to access from below. Follow the instructions but the basic idea is... Plumb the bottom of the trap into place and support it at right height. Check the position by lowering the tray on top temporarily. Test for leaks. When happy mortar bed the tray. Then seal around the tray hole and screw the top part through the tray into the bottom of the trap. Check tray is level again. Later you fit the inner tube of the trap and the mushroom cap, bot of which can be removed for cleaning. Edited December 5, 2019 by Temp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 (edited) 1 minute ago, Temp said: We have same. Use s "top access" trap. McAlpine and others make them. The water seal in these is formed by concentric tubes instead of a U bend. The inner tube can be removed from above to clean the trap. Never need to access from below. Follow the instructions but the basic idea is... Plumb the bottom of the trap into place and support it at right height. Check the position by lowering the tray on top temporarily. Test for leaks. When happy mortar bed the tray. Then seal around the tray hole and screw the top part through the tray into the bottom of the trap. Check tray is level again. Later you fit the inner tube of the trap and the mushroom cap, bot of which can be removed for cleaning. @Temp you’re not Temp you are permanent!!! ? Edited December 5, 2019 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 (edited) PS We filled in the hole with a pressure treated wood frame (4x2) and thick WBP on top with a hole where the trap had to go. PPS You can set the tray into the floor a bit if falls allow but I would leave the top about 5mm higher than the finished floor level will be after tiling. That way the plastic door seal won't scrape on the tiles when the door is opened. Might allow a bit more just in case the tiles aren't 100% level ? Edited December 5, 2019 by Temp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 6 minutes ago, Temp said: PS We filled in the hole with a pressure treated wood frame (4x2) and thick WBP on top with a hole where the trap had to go. PPS You can set the tray into the floor a bit if falls allow but I would leave the top about 5mm higher than the finished floor level will be after tiling. That way the plastic door seal won't scrape on the tiles when the door is opened. Might allow a bit more just in case the tiles aren't 100% level ? I was worried about building up my level with timber for the shower tray . I know it shouldn’t get wet but even dry timber can compress . Was going to cement in solid concrete blocks and then maybe screw marine ply - you said WBP ; what’s that ?? ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 4 minutes ago, pocster said: I was worried about building up my level with timber for the shower tray . I know it shouldn’t get wet but even dry timber can compress . Was going to cement in solid concrete blocks and then maybe screw marine ply - you said WBP ; what’s that ?? ? Weather & Boil Proof 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 (edited) WBP = Water Boil Proof Plywood. Sometimes also called Marine Ply. Quality of this stuff can vary a lot so if your timber merchant offers several different grades pay for the best. I had some which was sold as WBP but delaminated quickly when damp. Concrete blocks should be fine. Our tray is a massively heavy Travertine tray that needed four people to get upstairs. Builder said it was the heaviest tray he ever installed. No sign of any movement after 12 years. However we have had water getting between tiles and tray. I noticed a damp patch downstairs a few years ago and for a horrible moment thought it was the trap leaking. Turned out it was just water that had escaped the tray through the door hinge gap. Sealing between tray and floor tiles was redone and it was sorted. Edited December 5, 2019 by Temp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 11 minutes ago, Temp said: WBP = Water Boil Proof Plywood. Sometimes also called Marine Ply. Quality of this stuff can vary a lot so if your timber merchant offers several different grades pay for the best. I had some which was sold as WBP but delaminated quickly when damp. Concrete blocks should be fine. Our tray is a massively heavy Travertine tray that needed four people to get upstairs. Builder said it was the heaviest tray he ever installed. No sign of any movement after 12 years. However we have had water getting between tiles and tray. I noticed a damp patch downstairs a few years ago and for a horrible moment thought it was the trap leaking. Turned out it was just water that had escaped the tray through the door hinge gap. Sealing between tray and floor tiles was redone and it was sorted. So do I actually cement the tray to the wbp / marine ply ? . Will cement stick to that ? . I’ve always thought ( and seen ) trays bedded with plaster ( not sure why ) .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 15 minutes ago, Temp said: WBP = Water Boil Proof Plywood. Sometimes also called Marine Ply. Quality of this stuff can vary a lot so if your timber merchant offers several different grades pay for the best. I had some which was sold as WBP but delaminated quickly when damp. Concrete blocks should be fine. Our tray is a massively heavy Travertine tray that needed four people to get upstairs. Builder said it was the heaviest tray he ever installed. No sign of any movement after 12 years. However we have had water getting between tiles and tray. I noticed a damp patch downstairs a few years ago and for a horrible moment thought it was the trap leaking. Turned out it was just water that had escaped the tray through the door hinge gap. Sealing between tray and floor tiles was redone and it was sorted. Marine ply is better quality as far as I'm aware, 100% void free. WBP isn't. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 15 hours ago, pocster said: So do I actually cement the tray to the wbp / marine ply ? . Will cement stick to that ? . I’ve always thought ( and seen ) trays bedded with plaster ( not sure why ) .... Most manufactures recommend a mortar mix (4 or 5 parts sand to 1 of cement and some plasticiser). Should probably prime the WBP with PVA first. Think the idea is to ensure the uneven underside of the tray is supported uniformly to prevent the tray cracking. Some make this a warranty requirement. Probably a few YouTube vids on this. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted January 30, 2020 Author Share Posted January 30, 2020 Ok ! Back on this as I need to build a stud wall to house the pocket door . So pic 1 the gap for shower tray in ensuite pic 2 going to cement blocks - get them nice and level . pic 3 . Will build up height with timber . Marine ply once at correct height . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted January 30, 2020 Author Share Posted January 30, 2020 (edited) Edge blocks for shower tray in . Tomorrow. Will build up the height in timber . Question regarding the water proof tile backer board - I assume this goes down behind the shower tray edges ; I.e it doesn’t sit on the tray ....? thanks to @Onoff for his ‘how to use ‘ ... ? Edited January 30, 2020 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 Timber support stud in . Much thicker at that far end because a pocket door sits there . Height for tray seems about right once I board with marine ply . Assume some ‘noggins’ across the centre for more support a good idea . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 Stud at nearest end and one at 3rd in . Probably add one more . Is this over engineered?? ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 Where is your drain fella ?. In that back wall you need a glazed panel, so you can see downstairs from the shower. Seriously. Could you use one of your walk on glazing panels. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 (edited) 55 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said: Where is your drain fella ?. In that back wall you need a glazed panel, so you can see downstairs from the shower. Seriously. Could you use one of your walk on glazing panels. Drain not in yet . It will be top left corner . So I’ll break out one of my concrete blocks then break through the beam and block . Walk on glass - to look at what though ? . I suppose I could put a flat screen tv under it . Awkward to watch in the shower but would be a talking point ! Think @Patrick was interested in buying them for a Kings ransom .... Edited January 31, 2020 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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