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Bathroom starts !


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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

I Sikaflex'd 9mm ply onto my frame. I had to add a 9mm layer to ensure the subsequent Aqua Panels cleared the soil pipe at the base of the wall. Pretty sure that adds to keeping the frame in place. 

 

I used self drill screws through the ply into the Geberit frame. I was really careful to draw the frame on the ply so I didn't drill into any pipe or God forbid the cistern!

 

20170812_145241

 

2017-08-12_06-17-12

 

Aqua Panel again Sikaflex'd to the ply:

 

20170815_160605

 

Again I marked a red zone where I daren't have drilled! The self drill screws were no good for screwing the Aqua panel through the ply and into the metal frame. I just used the proper Knauf screws where there was timber behind.

 

2018-06-06_09-51-05

 

Sikaflex not ct1 ? Does it matter ??

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19 minutes ago, pocster said:

Sikaflex not ct1 ? Does it matter ??

 

Dunno...I will say that Sikaflex I think skins up quicker than CT1...

 

Sikaflex I think goes off more solid that CT1 though it still has a resilience about it. 

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2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Dunno...I will say that Sikaflex I think skins up quicker than CT1...

 

Sikaflex I think goes off more solid that CT1 though it still has a resilience about it. 

I’ve got loads of ct1 to use up ! ?

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Warning warning !

 

Reaching point of commitment !!

Water Hep2o inlet attached - waste in . Just got to sort Hep2o pipe to inlet . Looks like underneath I have no choice but a 90 degree tee .

This is it for fitting the cistern I assume ....

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8 minutes ago, pocster said:

choice but a 90 degree tee .

This is it for fitting the cistern I assume ....

 

Whassa 90 degree tee, an elbow?

 

Yep, if it's all in firm your there.....unless you go ott and stuff the cavity with sound deadening stuff.....like one bloke on here did.....

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2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Whassa 90 degree tee, an elbow?

 

Yep, if it's all in firm your there.....unless you go ott and stuff the cavity with sound deadening stuff.....like one bloke on here did.....

Yeah elbow . I was talking all professional ?

TBH I stood here thinking - I should fill the cavity behind with sound insulation stuff - like a true pro !!! ?

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Houston !

 

Check manifold of manifolds open 

672F6908-7CD1-4335-8C39-403709702BDA.thumb.jpeg.b83ad4b7e8730f1f338a096b15d8bbdf.jpeg

 

Check inlet valve is dry 

 

04ED8B2B-FCF9-4A3B-AFB9-CDF529698EB1.thumb.jpeg.4819f139ce7f2026600c34864ba0f78f.jpeg

 

Check bowl in place 

 

We are clear to flush - that’s clear to flush Houston !

8BB3AB18-D206-4EAB-86B3-62C97EB51861.thumb.jpeg.c85280df6492c585567d7f9aaca6a5bf.jpeg

 

Ah ! Bigger bowl required Houston !

Mission deemed successful !

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Stick the temporary faceplate over the flush mechanism and the two yellow bungs in the flush and poo pipe holes asap to prevent debris getting in.

 

Do not cut your poo and flush pipes until the tiling is done.

Edited by Onoff
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When and ONLY when your tiling is done!

 

Push the flush pipe into the wall and make a mark level with the tiles:

 

20190205_171756

 

Put the flush pipe into the pan connector then into the pan with a bit of silicone spray:

 

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Mark flush with the back of the pan:

 

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The measurement between the two marks is how much you cut off the flush pipe, about 85mm in my case:

 

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Cut it off the non ribbed end and emery off the hairy bits:

 

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20190205_171956

 

Ditto the poo pipe. I found a plastic bag used like this helped when swapping between the poo pipe and yellow bung as I was into a "live" drain. The yellow bung sat in a bucket of Dettol:

 

20190205_174557

 

Marking the poo pipe level with the back of the pan:

 

20190205_173759

 

Ott to cut the poo pipe down once I knew how much to trim off:

 

20190205_181139

 

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When you tile this, it is not essential to cut around everything as accurately as @Onoff as the WC pan will cover all the holes easily.  You could just do one big cutout.  If, however, you leave a gap at the top of the flush pipe the pan will not cover it and you will cry.

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Just now, Mr Punter said:

When you tile this, it is not essential to cut around everything as accurately as @Onoff as the WC pan will cover all the holes easily.  You could just do one big cutout.  If, however, you leave a gap at the top of the flush pipe the pan will not cover it and you will cry.

 

Animal.

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What kind of push plate are you using?

 

We got fancy ones that sit flush with tiles and after tiling two rooms realised that there was a chrome backplate that we didn't have that went behind the tiles. Managed to source and fit for the untiled rooms but had to swap for the clip over version - still look good but could have done without the stress!

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46 minutes ago, Bitpipe said:

What kind of push plate are you using?

 

We got fancy ones that sit flush with tiles and after tiling two rooms realised that there was a chrome backplate that we didn't have that went behind the tiles. Managed to source and fit for the untiled rooms but had to swap for the clip over version - still look good but could have done without the stress!

Ah ! Before purchase of cistern the style of push plate was ‘ unknown ‘ - so currently not bought any . That will be another decision for another day !! ?

Edited by pocster
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Hey @Onoff

 

What am I doing wrong here ?

Managed to get 1 bolt in but the rest are basically inaccessible - does the actual cistern come out or something ? . Don’t see how I can get a bolt from the outside in and hold the nut ...   

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CEA2B3E4-26E4-4C8C-A1BA-20B49B811559.jpeg

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Hey @Onoff

 

What am I doing wrong here ?

Managed to get 1 bolt in but the rest are basically inaccessible - does the actual cistern come out or something ? . Don’t see how I can get a bolt from the outside in and hold the nut ...   

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18 minutes ago, pocster said:

Hey @Onoff

 

What am I doing wrong here ?

Managed to get 1 bolt in but the rest are basically inaccessible - does the actual cistern come out or something ? . Don’t see how I can get a bolt from the outside in and hold the nut ...   

 

From memory you can unclip the cistern.

 

And I used a socket to hold the "nut" or in my case the head of a coach screw.

Edited by Onoff
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11 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

From memory you can unclip the cistern.

 

And I used a socket to hold the "nut" or in my case the head of a coach screw.

Call to geberit - told me not to remove the cistern . Their advice drill a pilot hole into the steel then use a wood screw !

Not happy with that . Think I need long self tapping screws - can then drill through timber from the outside - then use screw that bites the steel properly.

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1 minute ago, pocster said:

Call to geberit - told me not to remove the cistern . Their advice drill a pilot hole into the steel then use a wood screw !

Not happy with that . Think I need long self tapping screws - can then drill through timber from the outside - then use screw that bites the steel properly.

 

No need to remove! Just unclip and GENTLY push it back.

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