Moonshine

I thought that the waste would get in the way.. This is how the plumber has left it, I would have thought that it would be off to the side a little so as not to get in the way of the waste

This isn't going to work is it (or be a major pain in the arse). Cold water feed for the toilet coming out the wall bang on where the toilet waste is.

@nodany thoughts? o.k or madness?

Tacking is screwing boards to stud, I have included in my total costs but not the m2 getting boards into the house, which is extra. Its 160m2 floor area house, and does not include a full height atrium that will get done once I get a bird cage in there. Guys doing the skim are the same guy who rendering and the render is very nice.

Some guidance here https://www.mitek.co.uk/2020/04/08/site-storage-of-trussed-rafters-and-posi-joists/#:~:text=SITE STORAGE OF POSI-JOISTS&text=If stored in a flat,term exposure to inclement weather.

Is that including materials? I am getting my house boarded out next week, and skim to follow with the following labour rates, with me getting all materials to site. Tacking - £3m2 Dabbing - £4m2 Acoustic Insulation - £1.50m2 Skim - £6m2 I have about 330m2 to do and my rough overall costings is about £7.5k for it all including materials. For the skimming and materials (multifinish, beading, tape) onto the boards i think its comes to about £9m2.

In these eastly winds i do.

I have one side of my house (north facing) still to be rendered which has a number of separate panels, this last side is trailing the rest as the rain that seem to last a month put a stop to progress. The renderer has said that they are looking to come back next week to finish this side. However where we are the weather next week is forecast to 5 degrees with strong easterlies, dropping to 1 at night. I am concerned that this could be too cold for the render to properly take. I being too cautious or is the 3 degrees and rising for mortar also applicable for cement based render?

It is perfectly feasible to put a ASHP in an acoustic enclosure and not have a detrimental effect on it performance, as long as the space outside isn't too tight. However it has significant cost implication. One recent project I was looking at costings of the acoustic enclosure at around £4.5k. There are plenty of acoustic enclosure manufacturers, just give them a call and tell them what unit you are putting in and they will be able to provide quotes at different levels of noise reduction For permitted development you need to limited the noise from the ASHP to 42 dB at the nearest boundary. The unit you have selected is quiet but you describe the Location its going into as a tight space. You need to factor in noise reflections from hard services (the noise data presented in the data sheets don't include this.

Next question MDF window boards, how long do you recon to fit one of these, 15 to do? Cut the back, route the horn, and cut out horns, fit and level. 45 mins each?

Thanks guys, what do you tank with? I am using shower trays and my plan is to that the tile backer board to go all the way to the floor behind the tray, but the tiles to sit above the tray.

I am planning to board out my bathrooms in moisture resistant plasterboard and use tile backer board behind the showers. The thing is that the walls of these rooms are going to be tiled. Should I be using MR plasterboard where its going to be tiled on the walls or do I need to use tile backer board on walls (stud and masonry)

Yep. Router i have got, jig and lifter i haven't.

De-skill, sounds interesting, where can one of these jugs be sourced from? Does it do hinges on door liner and door?

I am getting quotes together for second fix internal doors. I have 11 doors to hang and want to get a steer on reasonable time a joiner would take to fit solid oak door liners, a oak laminate door and 90mm solid oak architrave either side. Any ideas? my gut says 2 hours per door

A recent example i have had looking at ordering my window cills, for a none trade account sold at £140 + VAT , my trade account £84 + VAT, builder going to Jewsons picking some stuff up and speaking to the branch manager, now its £40 + VAT a length https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/sam52-25-x-294-windowboard-3-66m-fsc-F522529C Saved me over £100 as the next best i could find was £44 for 2.7m lengths

i can't edit the above post now, but builder has saved me £110 from the next best supplier i found

I have never ever heard of that, and i wouldn't want to do it that way. It could be that the BM thinks it will be easier than having to take payment from you for things each time, but that is a hell of a risk for you to take on. I have accounts with the main BM's in the area that i get quotes from, and if i go ahead they take card payment not a major issue. To streamline the process of the builder buying things on their account, one BM has transferred the same terms / costs onto my account. It makes the invoicing cleaner for my tax claim as its invoiced to me. Edit Case in point i am just ordering my window cills, for a none trade account £140 + VAT, my trade account £84 + VAT, builder going to BM picking some stuff up and speaking to the branch manager, now its £40 + VAT a length https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/sam52-25-x-294-windowboard-3-66m-fsc-F522529C

i have a very small loft area what i want to put a TV aerial in, has anyone got any recommendations of a decent one?

We are already using 35mm boxes and they are recessed back into the block with holes cut. I have gone through it with sparkie and he came up with the simple solution to use 47mm back boxes rather than pack out the 35mm. Should work o.k, with the advance of having deeper space for sockets etc

i am doing this, its hard, stressful and takes its toll. It can be very rewarding when things go to plan and get done, i am at the moment actively coordinating 4 different trades getting pre plaster stage ready (5th trade) and its a handful, but most of those trades are good guys to work with and its very much a collaborative effort. However if you don't have building experience i would be a bit wary. What about someone else project manages to water tight stage and you take it on from there? I have an architect overseeing the build from a PCC (practical completion certificate) and they are much more involved than the BCO.

My sparkie has installed back boxes cut into the block work, and they don't seem to protrude a lot out of the block. These walls are going to be dot and dabbed and skimmed, which could be 20-30mm gap from the block to the front of the plasterboard. In my head i thought that the backbox should protrude out the wall so the front of the back box sits a few mm behind the front face of the plasterboard, but it seems to be a fair bit behind that. Anyone got any ideas of the right distance?

Fine to put a stud work wall above ufh. Glue a dpc to the floor, and glue the stud sole plate to that. Don't screw it down.

Some days sure feel like it.

But I enjoy my role as caffeine engineer. I wonder if I can get a CEng for it.