Moonshine

I have people on daily's and it's a bit of a nightmare even with my site next door and me visiting site every day. I couldn't do it with a remote site, too many people take the piss.

Yes, two 65mm standard bricks and two standard 10mm beds of mortar gets your the 150mm. Use cement screws to screw down through the wood into the block (into drilled holes). This is how mine turned out In mine the dpm is under the slab and comes out and terminates at ground level. There Is a second dpm that sits under the insulation, laps up the inside of the two bricks and gets joined to a dpc which is between the brick and the timber frame sole plate

I did a dry fit of the unit and taps, with top of bowl 840mm above floor, tap hieght seems right. The thing that concerns me is the small space below vanity unit and floor.

Looks like you are on the hook for it, ouch.

I was saying the 850mm would be the top of the bowl, the counter top would be the basin bowl depth below that. Sounds like I need to work out the basin depth, and the will be the counter top level.

I am have a very dumb moment I think, in our en suite we are going to have a wall vanity unit and wall taps. I am really struggling to get my head round hieghts and need a sanity check. I am looking to set the top of the counter top bowl to 850mm above floor level, then that the wall mounted taps 200mm above the top of the bowl. Does that sound about right?

This is what i did and didn't have a screed above the insulation, just UFH and laminate, its not too springy. I did it this way as in future the outbuilding may be used as a garage. in relation to the roof to save floor to ceiling height, have a look at a hybrid roof. This would be a big no no if it was a permanently occupied and in a cold area, due to the risks of interstitial condensation, but as its an outbuilding then it may be possible. We have done it, and will see how it performs. Have a look what Oakwood Garden rooms say on the matter, though there is some debate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZFcHcxbFbE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_dBayq3_FA

Acrylic sealant is apparently, but don't know if this is silicone?

What do you seal new plaster with a window frame, decorators caulk or acrylic frame sealant?

yes you do, "Dpcs should be provided below timber partitions where directly fixed to floor slabs, even if there is a dpm beneath the slab. This is to prevent residual moisture in the concrete affecting the timber." https://nhbccampaigns.co.uk/landingpages/techzone/previous_versions/2011/Part6/section3/sitework.htm

i finally got through to someone that don't need a photo of no existent meter, they want me to go on their flexi tariff which is a 50p standing charge per day and 64p kWh! i thought my current one was bad at this! Unit rate per kWh: 37.273p Standing charge: 59.02p per day

Very tidy, is that a standard bullnose profile?

We have decided to go for white architrave and skirting and hope to end up with something like this look There seems to be two options for door linings solid wood or MDF, and consensus of what would be better?

Just been onto Eon Next and they now say they need a photo on the electic connection in place before they will book a installation, which will be in 6-8 week wait!

Decided to go 6mm tile backer screwed down, then sand and cement as per the instructions. Surprisingly it went o.k (glass lifters were a saviour!!!) though need to test water through it

I am going round in circles about fitting these damn shower trays, basically i have 22mm caberdek and going to fit a shower tray on it (the instructions just say 8mm mortar above it to bed into, other people i have spoken to say i need 6mm of hardie backer above the chipboard first (screwed down) Go on then do your worst to how does BH think a shower tray should go down? (not in this case the walls are fibre cement and i will be adding a tanking layer to it, and a seal tape at the joint to the tray)

Not come across the ditra Matt product before I will look into it, expensive though

What about 6mm tilebacker / cement board? Slight concern with screwing boards down is the is ufh pipes underneath on alu clip, so will only want to use 20mm screws

Looking to prepare my bathroom for tiling, at the moment it's just the caberdek floor with protective covering. What's the best way to prep this ready for tiling?

can you send me an image of the base of this, as this is the arrangement that will have, with the shower facing into the room, like you have it.

That could be an option actually, it may make the entrance into the bathroom a bit narrow, but could work

that is an interesting idea, but not really considered a wet room before, its currently a caberdeck floor, wouldn't i need to put something else down over this, and if so how does this tie in at door thresholds.

I have a shower going in that is a 1000mm x 900mm, and its semi enclosed as below, i want the door to swing out as below, but the enclosure is doesn't go all the way round. does anyone know of a type of enclosure that works like this? i am expecting to have to get a special piece of glass cut for the return site as its not a standard size.

I have a small area of floor that wasn't screeded at the same time as the liquid screed for a number of reasons. Its about 5-6 m2 and want to take on screeding myself with a laser level, as no ufh going I'm this area Probably looking at a sand and cement mix. Any tips / min depths?

Just bear in mind if an acoustic enclosure needed to go up there it's heavy too! Rules of thumb are 10 dB for full screening, 5 dB for partial screening. In reality it's can be a bit more complicated than that