Moonshine

EML fixed to over the render board and sailed past the cracks, use stainless steel screws and washers to fix the EML to the board / timber

Its an outbuilding, having timber above the insulation, no screed.

I have a slab of about 25m2 that is about 10mm out over a 6m length. I want to level out before I put the DPM down, with insulation above. I was planning to use a laser level as reference and fill to a reference point with sand. However now wondering if it will be easier to use self leveling compound. What do you think?

Aren't there noggins in that would stop a full board length being installed? I would install a full board then a 35mm slither off cut, expand foam any gaps, then alu tape over joints Edit: it was my assumption that your insulation is going in the cavity, however it sound like it may be on the inside of the timber.

This looks like a good deal on the base kit, with additional sensors probably required https://www.ehubdistribution.co.uk/product/texecom-64-zone-wireless-kit-with-sounder-inc-capture-kit-1002/

Any idea which ones?

who was the manufacturer?

good to hear, though are you Posi joists on site? you will need to accommodate the slightly wider beam with the joist layout.

looking around at ideas for toilets and something like below may be an option, though how difficult are these to service is something goes wrong in the cistern / pipe connections leak. If you have tiled over the cistern do tiles have to start coming off?

My sparkie is doing first fix and putting in cables for pir sensors, and to an alarm box externally. I need to source and alarm system to install and looking for advice on decent systems. At the moment its just sensors by do I want external door sensors too?

Absolutely, I would be going going to try and get a beam 10-20mm smaller than the joists to run services under it

This is what I sent them though I changed the overhang from 15mm to 10mm.

Its a bespoke bit of metal, that I got cladco to make up. I was working in okehampton on Friday so i could pick up, i ordered it the week before. I provided them with the cad drawing of the size / angle I wanted and they made it up. Not bad for 16 quid.

Got the trim yesterday (£16 for a 3m length collected) all done. Very happy with how it turned out

I did a solid side of the building the other day, straight runs without any windows / doors, managed 80 linear metres in 3 hours, treating cut ends and laser levelling every couple of lifts. At £25 / h that's less than £1 a metre 😁

Heres how mine turned out, pretty happy for DIY, need to sort out the head once the drip trays arrive (e g remove the timber batten)

My sixteen Rationel Auraplus triple ordered at the start of 2022 were £630 / m2 installed.

When its all done, though have to say using a nail gun for the first time ever today is a revelation!

I ended up taking a day off doing some of the cladding. In about 6.5 hours I did about 68 linear metres and a window trim. Working solidily, treating cut ends and laser leveling every couple of lifts, so not rushing it too much. On my own experience £3 may be a tad rich

have you got contact details of how to get one set up, my electric supply is due to be going in tail end of Dec

i have been finding this useful https://www.robbins.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/TTF-Cladding-Handbook.pdf There is a TRADA External Timber Cladding manual, but i can't find a copy on line without payment

i did exactly the same thing, i measured out 8mm and it looked too big so wound it in to 5mm as shown the photo. even though its Siberian larch i am going to put wood preserver on the cut ends @Roundtuithave you got any pictures of yours?

I.e finish like the rows at the bottom, or have a gap as per the top row

Also thinking about detailing to trims, the horizontal cladding is currrntly butted up to the trim, without a gap, though there is advice that a 8mm gap should be left to the trim to "Cladding should be cut to ensure a minimum 8mm gap before vertical members of windows, doors, corner trims or similar. This allows airflow to the end of the boards which aids drying and helps prevent excessive moisture uptake.." Anyone done this?

I doubt it would perform as well as swing door, but there is a drop down seal for it https://www.lorientuk.com/products/las8001m Not sure what perimeter seals you would use and would be worth a call to lorient techincal for their advise. I cant find the las8001m easily for sale on line, but i norsound do one but is expensive (not shure how it compares to the loreint one. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/norsound-m-12-ws-locking-sliding-door-acoustic-drop-seal-958mm-length-637182