Moonshine

I am obsessed with grinders 🤣 This is probably too much work, How about metal cutting out slits of 100mm which rotate every 45 degress and enlarge the hole that way

What is the view like from the other side? is access better? Assuming the that the SE is happy with holes in the beam, how about investigating putting rectangular holes in them, and changing from circular to rectangular ducting just in those sections (makings sure that the MVHR engineer is happy with the rectangular area). That way a nice 4.5 inch grinder with metal cutting disc would make some progress through them. though lots of eye, hands and hearing protection needed.

i am bringing this thread back as i am also on the hunt of what to do at the head of an opening, and want to get something like these. any idea where they can be sourced from? edit: found this which would work pretty well, but £90 delivery!!!! https://www.steelroofsheets.co.uk/products/over-window-drip/

I havent heard of this being an issue. If you think it is, how about a blob of pink grip on the clip / tie connection. Or as nod says tape this connection

I have a small loft area where the stepped roofs overlaps. The stepped wall between the roof is timber and i have applied a vcl and airtightness tape to the vcl inside of the insulation. The top doesnt need a vcl (i dont think) as the ply you can see is the roof deck and has a vcl directly above. This area is going to have walls ply lined and floor boarded with a loft hatch access. Its going to be warm in the space as its inside the thermal envelope but is only going to get fresh air from an unsealed loft hatch. My concern is the ventialtion of the space and if its needed, as i could see the air getting stale. There is a possibility of an inline extractor fan from the bathroom (to the left of the photo) going in this space. There could be a possibility of connecting to this batroom duct via a small pipe (with one way) to draw out some air when that fan activates.

I wouldnt say any stage is the hardest, its the hope. "Its the hope that kills you" Got your next few weeks planned out? trades booked, materials ordered, plans made. "When thats done, that xxxx thing can get done then yyyyy, then zzzzz then we are close to getting to that "big mile stone", excellent progress is coming" Then something buggers it up tradie ill/doesnt turn in, material issue, weather something needs to be done you hadnt accounted for, bye bye plans.....bye bye milestone. I have had a particularly crap week of it from all fronts and im going on to site this morning and see what small progress i can do. As Ranulph Fiennes says plod forever

I have two very initial ones. 1) upstairs shower enterance looks crowded, i would look into the layout of it. 2) i would really think about putting bi folds in the kitchen out the the garden, adds £££ but would really make it a nice space. Edit: got nosey and figured out where you are, great location and have visited the main builders site a couple of times professionally.

Cheers, that does look a cheap rate and can understand why his rates went up. My thoughts were about £3 per l/m, which is £24 per m2 on 150mm larch (125mm coverage)

Anyone got a ball park labour only figure for fitting 150mm cladding, linear m or m2?

Went for an evening check on site after heavy rain. Roof all watertight phew. However in one corner of the house in the torch light the screed looks darker than the rest. Could this indicate a water leak in the underfloor heating pipes over such a wide area, and loss of pressure? The camera flash does empthises the difference

The thing is that these aren't connected to a heat source, its laterally the manifold and only the UFH pipes in the screed. So the only temperature fluctuation i can see is happening it the temp of the water when used in august and it getting colder till now. This is evident on the manifold / UFH in the basement dropping from 2.4 bar to 1.5 bar, however its must be a lot of contraction from the water in the pipes for the pressure at the ground floor manifold to go down to zero bar from 4.2. That said the length of pipes a ground floor are very long so any contraction may result in a big pressure drop. The this still no evidence of water leaking from above with what i would expect wet spots in the screed (there is a DPM below insulation, and a vapour barrier below the screed), no water or remanence of water in the manifold cabinet 🤔

More UFH woes, after my ufh issues i went round the other manifolds that were installed under screeds in august, and have found the main one reading no pressure. When it was installed it was at 4.8 bar, and after a few days had dropped to 4.2 bar. I flagged it with the plumber that said it was fine and unless there is water visible the pressure can fluctuate with temperature, and it was left at that as i couldn't see any water. There is another manifold what was installed at the same time (basement) and is sitting at 1.5 bar, this was originally installed with pressure about 2.4 bar. is loosing all pressure over a couple of months normal? the other manifold i have seems to imply not

I would be a bit nervous about this particularly what they are being used for, especially as any remedials will be expensive and the difference in buying a few hundred blocks won't be massive. When i was looking at blocks for mine i had to make sure that they had a transverse load capacity of 3.5kN

I looked at that and my first thought was, that ain't pretty but it works and ain't going going anywhere.

Surely it can't be that hard!

yes but but caution to use with brick faced walls due to wind driven rain.

This was my build up which gave a u-value of 0.18 if you have a brick outer leaf you would get 0.19, but you have to be very careful using brick will a fully filled cavity due to wind driven rain penetration (you will need to have advice on this) there are products that allow / certified for a 10mm residual cavity (e.g. Kooltherm K106) but the max thickness of this product is 115mm. This is calculated to give a indicated U value of 0.14

I have just been through this with my sparkie, and he was insistent on Prysmian cable so that is what i got him. This was his initial shopping list no. 2 100m x 2.5mm2 twin and earth no. 2 100m x 1.5mm2 twin and earth no. 1 100m x 1.5mm2 three core and earth no. 1 100m x cat 6 cable no. 1 50m x aerial coax cable plastic clips - shit loads I did shop around and infact screw fix came up pretty completive with 2.5mm at £81 inc VAT and 1.5mm at £54 inc VAT, so just got it from there as its close

They are actually 3/4 glands and screwfix / toolstation only sell upto 1/2. Luckily there is a worsley just round the corner that do them for the pricely ammount of £30! Tap back in and water back on. Now watching to see if the plumbing i pissed about with for no reason doesnt weep.

Brilliant, the tap is out now. And you were right they do come out the top and dont need access to the bottom🤫 Oh well at least i know for next time

Oh tell me whereni can get a replacement. I have gone in via the wall behind

The hot tap has gone on my bath and wont switch off. I have turned the water off in the house to stop it running. The bathroom was installed before we moved in and it looks like the only way i can replace the tap is smashing the tiles on the side to get access to underneath Unless am i missing something that would mean i dont have to get my hammer out. The wall behind this is plasterboard and i could potential go in though this

I like that idea, this would allow slight variation in the timber without pissing about with packers and the screws will give an extra fixing

On my timber outbuilding the windows and doors have just gone in and i have taped them for air tightness. My next challange is how to plasterboard the reveals to get a nice square edge. The board will need to be brought out to fill the gap to the frame. My thoughts are to screw the board to the timber and use packers to bring it out board to the require vetical. Once in fill the gap between the boards, then paper tape the right angle and them plaster. I have a laser level which should help getting things vertical.

So i can explain the situation why its not in my name, but will need to provide a bank statement showing the same amount going out of my account on that date. That sounds doable. Also the delivery address is my address so that should close the circle (i presume)