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It has this yes

To revive a recently deceased thread! turns out that the system was still causing problems and so I have had it changed over to a pressurised system. one question on the install - I had assumed that there would be a tundish by the expansion vessel but there doesn’t appear to be. Is what you can see in the picture a suitable alternative?

Ripping it all out and starting again is not going to happen. skirting and ceiling coving remaining in place and electrics not an issue. So if I were to skim on top of the plaster which option would anyone go for?

Walls have been stripped of wallpaper back to original plaster (lime I presume?). Assuming it is still sound what would people recommend for skimming onto it? 1. bluegrit 2. PVA till tacky (with one coat before?) 3. pink SBR wait till fully dry Got a whole house to do so quite like the idea of something you can get on and leave to dry cheers

Madness! Do what you are planning to do. (not based on any real knowledge of building regs on this but it was fine for us)

I need to plaster a wall where the most recent skim wasn’t well bonded. I've scraped all the skim off the wall now and wondering best way to re plaster it. The green section you can see in the picture is old wallpaper - very thin and well bonded to the wall (no flaking/weak spots) and would be very tricky to get off. two questions. 1. do we think it should be ok to apply a couple coats 1/3 pva/water and then skim over? Or would I be better off using some blue grit? 2. In taking off the failed skim I have made a couple of small patches that have gone back to the blocks and need filling - what would be the best option for filling them to allow skimming after no more than 24 hours (don’t particularly want to buy a whole bag of bonding for such a small amount)

Yes indeed. thanks very much for your help - next time I’m in Wales I’ll buy you a few pints!

Yes definitely a little action there. also did a magnet check on this T with no sticking to the pipe. is this likely the T section you said can cause problems (it’s just by the hot water tank)?

So………. i managed to find this little beauty! Im wondering if that is an auto vent (that maybe ceased on the auto bit). opened it and there was gurgling and eventually water came out. fired up the boiler and it got going, much gurgling, but didn’t stop straight away like it had. But would go into anti cycling mode, but not turn off and get going again after it had cooled down again. Eventually some low heat to radiators, but not smooth. went up to the vent again to open and see if it would let air out (a little came out). trying hot water now and it is consistently working at a high temperature so that’s good! if I continue to struggle to get the hot water working properly am I right to think that going back to open the vent is a good idea to try and get rid of any more air? and is it likely an auto vent that has ceased to auto vent and that I could replace it with a functioning auto vent?

The pump is in the hot water cupboard upstairs and I’m pretty sure it is higher than the bleed point on the rads.

Clicked the button on the wilo. It made some different sounds for the duration (the display said it was doing the auto bleed). Eventually I stopped it after 15 minutes. Did it a couple times. no automatic air vents on the system as far as I know

One more question for anyone. when you bleed a non automatic pump you do it until you get water coming through. when I used the auto bleed function on the wilo I didn’t at any point have water come out and the bleeding then stop. Should there be water coming out at the point it successfully bleeds all the air out ?

Thanks for the replies Nick. so you don’t think there is anything obviously structurally wrong with the pipe work?

There is very little pipe work to see. Gas enters from the bottoms and flow and return on top.

Do you mean a drain point on a low radiator?