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Why is it damp? how else is it going to be constructed? once the block wall is weathertight what is the issue?

This sort of thing? Ok to run vertically? https://www.drainageshop.co.uk/40mm-waste-traps/40mm-hepvo-waterless-trap.html

No pictures there. To be honest they are relying on how it goes through the ceiling to support it. It’s not too long a run of pipe so it is pretty stable but still a bit shit! I spotted the brackets on top of the boiler so I might suggest they get attached. I’ve just been plastering the room for them but can see there are issues with the boiler. Consumer unit has just been installed so presumably the lack of bonding is ok. What is it in a good modern install that negates the need for bonding? RCBOs?

How does this install look? my two concerns, firstly the flue is only supported by the hole in the ceiling - I’d imaging it should have a fixing to the wall. secondly the overflow pipe that goes into soil pipe - can that really just drain into an open connector?!

Gotcha. No idea how a ball could get down there!

The rod got all the way to what I assume is the u bend. So not in the pipe itself. not quite sure what you mean by a ball!

Definitely fat buildup from kitchen waste. Also pipes from washing machine and upstairs bathroom. was looking at this - think I have a karcher pressure washer that works if I hold it in a certain way! https://www.screwfix.com/p/karcher-drain-gutter-cleaning-kit-4-pcs/91778

Feel like I need something like this but bigger more industrial. cant seem to find anything yet https://www.toolstation.com/arctic-hayes-waste-pipe-cleaner/pAB199?msclkid=181cbe7939d5164b8006d478feced8ec&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=_PMax_Hand+Tools_Core_Bing&utm_term=2324711180433296&utm_content=Hand+Tools+-+Restructure

I’m trying to unblock this drain. it’s a short section from the hopper to the manhole and the blockage is close to the hopper. Currently water is not going through it at all and is just seeping into the cracks around the grate. I have tried emptying what has been stuck under the grate and get to the bottom and can reach a bit into a u bend (I can only reach the bottom section of said bend and have cleared up to that). from the other end I have tried rodding but doesn’t seem to have any result (nothing being broken up or coming out). the level of the the drain at the manhole is maybe 200mm lower than the bottom of the u bend under the grate. So I’m guessing there’s a whole section that is blocked that I just can’t reach. any ideas on how to proceed? the rods I’m using are old style not very flexible - maybe there are more flexible ones. any unblocker substances to throw down ? (I’m sceptical anything other than mechanical removal of the blockage will work) Pressure washers?

If you are building a house (and the carpenter isn’t doing all the work!) I would buy something like this https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita-dlx2145tj-18v-cordless-twin-kit-dhp458-combi-drill-dtd152-impact-driver-inc-2x-5-0ah-batts?msclkid=c28c1d2772531c166a9b74d834fed778&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Standard Shopping - Scored High&utm_term=4583795297990677&utm_content=Makita&gclid= only a very brief look around and there are many options but both impact and normal drill are pretty useful and two batteries seems essential to me. I prefer makita to DeWalt but that was partly because the old dewalt battery design always meant they fell out easily - at least they’ve improved that!

More adhesive? or a 9mm board stuck on. Why does it need to be skimmed if you are tiling?

What was the lime render used?

I have wellies - does that count!

Is it possible to undo the outgoing live and neutral from the meter pictured? if so do you know how to? It doesn’t look like you can just put a screwdriver in to loosen a nut in the holes to the side. for context, and before you say get a qualified electrician in, I wouldn’t be doing it until this meter is no longer functioning. due to the RTS signal being switched off in a few days here I will be moving the consumer unit that this meter is connected to (it’s the cheaper tariff meter of two) over to the main 3 phase board and it would be easiest to just re route these tails into that board.