Ferdinand

On the definition, I think it is down to something being defensible as a "repair" not a "rebuild" (which revolves around eg there being a demonstrable amount of former fabric in existence before and afterwards - of proof of such), and proof of use, as the things to focus on. I am sure there will be a definition in Planning or Case Law somewhere, or decisions which will build a jigsaw of such a definition, but I do not know it offhand. and https://www.farminguk.com/news/derelict-farm-buildings-at-risk-of-being-considered-abandoned-_47695.html F

It's a spectrum and will depend on a number of factors, the location and the precise circumstances. May be useful background: As a family we used to live in a Listed House. There was a stable block, in use for storage, and the former site of two staff cottages, which had been demolished decades ago and all walls removed. The ground was still very hard, and something like a ground survey would find evidence. Plus we had photos of the cottages. The Council were very clear that they could not be rebuilt, but that the stables would be able to be turned into residential. OTOH there are plenty of places where restoration has been permitted. I think you need 2 things: 1 - That a building is still there are can be repaired (as opposed to rebuilt). 2 - That there is credible proof of the residential use. With those two I think you could do it. Beyond that it may be possible, but then you are more reliant of circumstances to weigh in the balance of benefit in planning terms ... eg things like supporting affordable for locals, or being from a local family and supporting a local job etc. F

I think the talk to them all idea is a good one. It may also do to check what the legal position is wrt access rights etc, to inform your actions etc, and to know who actually owns the ‘square’ and who has what rights over it. F

Ivy wood is very soft, so loppers or a decent pruning saw can achieve a lot.

If I really wanted to do it I would glue down something mildly insulating, which could be an offcut of insulation, or for something more durable perhaps plasitc fasciaboards which come in 5m lengths at about £12-15 a pop. If you are doing work you could use offcuts of windowboards or even spares, which - if you don't have any - someone on here will have.

There 4m x 25m rolls of Visqueen on Ebay for under £30, which may be suitable. That is where I have had this from in the past. Ferdinand

@canalsiderenovation do you actually mean "handleless" as in no handle, or "handless" as in nudge it with your knee? Not sure if it makes a difference. (Then you added an extra s to give "handlesss" and I started thinking of Gollum .) 1 - I think if you paint as a separate process *anywhere* can mix it now. Years ago (2012) the local Johnstone's trade paint centre mixed me a paint on the spot from a Farrow and Ball colour ("panel white") just by phoning up HQ and asking for the spec. 2 - I think you could avoid fingerprints by choice of material and perhaps colour (dark colour?) or by fitting a fingerplate of some sort (which might wreck the streamlined look, unless you went for eg glass fingerplates), otherwise it will just be a small extra cleaning job once a month or so. The wrong material (door or fingerplate) could cause problems; I'm sure I remember a few whinges over small boys' fingerprints on the stainless steel finish on De Loreans. Ferdinand

You must be the chap who’s first jump was off the top board... Welcome. Is it listed in some form? It looks weathered, but restoring render should be easier than restoring all the stonework to be pristine.

Is it better to make it level, but with a gap (150-200mm?) between the fascia and the deck, and a little bridge at the door threshold? That would require a lip to the decking, but would prevent any need to bugger about with ramps between guests etc. Will your staff - whoever they are - be able to move a ramp that size?

Now you’ve done it...

Normal reasons for round-the-edges would be as Plan B if you can’t do underfloor, or Plan Supplementary If the amount you can fit is limited. It also depends on what is under the floor. F

Test how some of your new proposal will look in the rain. Can add interest. eg These are my bigger river pebbles.

This has always been my bag for big ivy. Seems to work. As a pragmatic answer, perhaps do the section cut now, and revisit later in your build and decide whether you actually need to do the ladder-gymnastics then. For ladders, I have a Wickes 3 section "professional" one, which was made by one of the branded companies. I think it does more than yours, but still goes in a small hatchback by about an inch. F

How deep is it? Perhaps "River Pebbles" of some size or other. Or shingle. Or perhaps slate chips. Or you could use some sort of rubbed glass. I think the main thing is to be backward visually rather than forwards. So it needs to be darker or the same as the pavers. .

Thanks. it is surprising what fits, and the benefits you can get. Intensive use of space is something that self-builders can miss too easily. There is a discipline of being generous where it is needed, and not elsewhere. that *should* be one of the benefits of using an architect if you do.

If you dont’t have anything In it to antagonise neighbours eg overlooking you may well get away with it. They do not want you suddenly being able to stand on your decking and looking into their garden casually. F

Just brief comments. 1 - There will need to be some detail reworked I think. One might be if you have to have wallspace at the bottom of the stairs to allow for a stairlift .. though you may not need that if you have a bedroom downstairs. 2 - You might want to reconsider your relationship of master bed to window to view to door into the dressing room. Personally I would want a window opposite the bed and the door not down one side of it. 3 - Think about your baths and showers. If mum is downstairs she will want a shower not a bath. My house had this shower room up bathroom down and it is not logical that you should have to climb stairs to get to the accessible one. 4 - If you are being efficient that downstairs shower room might fit under the stairs, depending what you want and hw you arrange it, with maybe a small loss of just from a bedroom. Have a look at my accessible shower room thread here. The space is under the stairs and roughly a 1.2m space at the side. A series of pieces. it may work depending, but you will get an extra room or to make one of them much larger. The detail will need to be right, as will the upstairs layout. 5 - I am not convinced that the kitchen-sitting room is generous enough. I think you would get major perceived and actual benefit from a terrace over the porch with an awning over it, and a pair of patio doors in the middle of that wall for access. I might even go for a portico up there. F

With glyphosate.This is my ivy after a fortnight post-spray. The method was trim in March, wait for regrowth and spray after 6-8 weeks.

I'd say that will be a helluva problem. Personally: don't without a test. I would spray the first coats then roller, unless you are in boy with toy mode. Read the megathread though. The paints I have sprayed OK: Leyland Trade, Armstead (sp?), Valspar. Who's the ugly chap in the photo?

This is the current lot of micro crops being grown. About 10 of them. Mizuma. Watercress. Spicy leaves. Chives. Coriander. Mixed Rocket. 2 x parsley. 2 x lettuce (Little Gem and Lamb's Lettuce). The photo is after about 5-6 days. Apart from the middle top which is an old one on its 4th harvest. One problem with this setup is slightly uneven lift, so I am turning the big trays every day. People still seem to be a gun trouble getting compost .. gave a bag to my cleaner who started again today. The gym coach's GF, who is fully sheltered, has had a 25% portion of nearly all my packets of seeds to get her going with some indoor gardening and some stuff for outdoors too, which is gratifying. 14 types of seeds supplied in one of those fortnight pillboxes, with an admonition driven in with a cluebat to be very careful about tipping it upside down ‘cos the doors are cr*p and will all open together of their own accord.

TBH I think performance needs a huge priority over cost in this case. Unless it is absolutely horribly horribly expensive. It needs to be right. Saving £100 or £200 on boarding is likely to be a false economy unless you know the product is as good.

Welcome. Many of us here have used a product called Multipanel rather than tiles for the shower, or for the whole bathroom. It is one of these 'bathroom panel' products with a marine ply core. Personally I would use it again, having done several bathrooms with it. It is very water resistant, and lasts a long time still looking mint. You also need to pay very careful attention to your ventilation. For thinking about general questions, I did a very detailed set of articles about bathrooms I had redone at home last year. These were tiles because they were not total guttings. It is flagged accessible but contains a lot of thinking. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/blogs/entry/622-adapting-a-house-for-people-who-are-frail-elderly-or-disabled/

Your own personal Walkie-Talkie tower. Can you fry eggs on your Jag, then?

We used to have a peacock. We lived in the old manor house, and someone turned up with one and said "we found this in our back garden - is it yours?". Dad (fool) said "yes" and spent the next years bringing it back when it kept flying away.

I think it was @Thorfun who was looking for this, which came with my hedge cutter. You will need to click through.