Marvin

This may help with discussions about part of frame and how to frame out for openings.

Tyvek good. Personally I would fill the gaps in the stud wall with 100 fluffy.

Of course insulating a building doesn't stop it from freezing or boiling over if the outside conditions are extreme enough for long enough, it only slows the process down. Pedants would point out various items that might make this not true all the time I'm sure.

Would it come under the same idea that you built the house and you built the permitted development extension at the same time? Or is this not allowed?

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/12060-everything-in-a-single-services-trench-— what-goes-where/ This may help M

Yeah. I use the 18v one. "Home Improvements" style!

I have used Makita for 4 years. Impact driver used loads and loads with no problem. Batteries replaced once recently. But as PeterW says only use originals! Oh and let hot batteries cool down before charging.

Acro no 2 used once: In a bungalow. From the floating slab, through the suspended timber floor, through the plasterboard ceiling up to the purlin. Hire shop said never hired out before.

I thought they had to be at least 2/3rds of the depth of the joist?

Just remember the important rules, my neighbours have informed me of, over the years. 1 You are entitled to a view. 2 If your tree leans over your neighbours fence they cannot cut it back within 10 feet of the boundary. 3 If you move your fence onto someone else's property after 10 years you can keep it. 4 If you want to move a bulk storage gas tank into your back garden you don't have to ask permission, just go down your neighbours private drive and trash the hedge leaning over. No worry. 5 You can build all you want because you need to, but no neighbours can build as it will destroy the neighbourhood. 6 You can put your stereo in the back garden full blast and have parties on every hot Saturday in the summer, but your neighbours builders must only do silent working. Have I missed any?

I purchased and installed a Polypipe Silavent Green Line HRX2 https://www.polypipe.com/sites/default/files/HRX2_MVHR_Technical_Data_Sheet.pdf with a summer bypass and I put all sorts of bespoke controls on it. It now looks like the name changed to the Domus HRX2-D heat recovery unit. The model is suitable for up to 275m2 floor area but I only have 106. I was careful to follow the recommended duct sizes and insulated the lot and in my small loft it was a pain in the . It runs at 20 watts on normal and has been excellent. We can just about hear it on boost. I clean the filters once a year. My filters are a different shape to Oz07's. We have had no mould issues however the 3 things I aim to improve are: Sound travelling down ducting from one room to another. Hot cooking smells cooling and travelling around the building "Wet rooms" smell removal. I am considering various options but any thoughts would be appreciated. I have only just realised that the summer by pass is the wrong name for the facility as when it is hot outside and cold inside it actually cools the fresh air when I use the heat exchanger! ? But I'm sure everybody else knows this.

It's very easy to be critical and some of the tried and tested techniques I use may be just as effective as the plumber's Also without knowing all the work details one starts guessing what would be right. Fill crack all way down. However definite concern about the possibility of movement cracks changing in the future: could cause tiles to come off the wall or gaps to appear in grouting or corner of room. Fill all edges, tile adhesive fine. But paint on waterproof sealant after. any type of filler to level gap and seal after. last photo not sure what it is. Don't like the idea of bits of old wallpaper still on the walls. Rawplugs I would run a sharp scraper over and that would cut them flush. Holes if small fill with tile adhesive as you go. The thing about existing coatings on the wall is are they going to stay there? If the gloss paint was widespread and slippery I would run a stanley knife and score it to give the tile adhesive a key. Shower tray down and sealed to walls, then walls tiled down to tray and tiles sealed to tray after grouting. Some trays have a upstand bit that fits in the wall behind the tiles... I assumes the floor is to be boarded before flooring? I use a lazer level to keep the same height all the way round when tiling and before that I used to draw a level line all around the room. Either way it didn't matter which wall I started on. However if fully tiled I would always try to finish above the door where small errors can be hidden. Anyway I'm sure they will sort it all out. Regards Marvin

Hi When does the installation of an ASHP installed on an existing building ( no building work required) under the MCS scheme ( under permitted development ) require Building Regulations notification? Are they just talking about the electrical work ?

Nice job!

I think that's guarantees ? (Sorry MikeSharp01couldn't resist) And yes as ever the devil is in the detail!

Thank you SteamyTea and dpmiller!

If your going for Aluminium it seems that power coating Aluminium is the best way forward and as SteamyTea says avoid electrolysis (which does not mean torturing you sister)

Hi. If an ASHP has a rated input current of say 10amps (in this question I am ignoring the Maximum input current required presumably for start up) Does that mean that during the active time it always uses 10amps? By active time I mean when it is trying to produce a temperature change not just when the pumps are just running and the technical stuff is monitoring. Guidance appreciated

That sounds like a time delay action. So you hold switch down until it activates and then it delays turning off for the programmed amount of time. If you have a normal switch it will stay on and when you switch it off it will continue for the programmed amount of time before shutting off ( think time delay on extractor fan). I use neon switches so you can see when it's left on. Unless someone knows otherwise of course.... Good luck Marvin

As a yard stick I would have thought that the garage option would have cost less. Other more experienced people, I'm sure will correct me if needed. Good luck Marvin

Oh dear. Sorry to hear about the parking issue. I would be surprised if the spaces on the public highway were to be considered unless one of them is your properties allocated parking space.

Green and purple! ????

Yes but at least you had a cunning plan!

After the stud plastic sheeting to stop moisture getting in the wall. If its a workshop light OSB if yournot going to hang anything on the walls or 12mm thick osb if you are. Remember to protect any electric cables from the insulation if they are in the walls. Onoff also has great ideas and I'm sure will come up with other/better ideas. Good luck M

If you build it like my shed then stainless steel screws every 600mm through bottom bit of wood into rawplug or easier a hammerfix! Make 1st coat after battening vapour barrier ( to let moisture out but not in) Make sure external cladding hangs below documents or it will drip into the workshop.