Mattg4321

Yes, the part p rules are slightly different in Wales. Yes, I am an electrician. Seeing kitchen fitter bodges is unfortunately very common. Whoever you go with make sure you’ll be getting a certificate and part p notification afterwards. NICEIC or NAPIT are the only two self certifying routes for electrical contractors to notify to BC for compliance with Part P in England. I know Scotland has others. Wales may do too. Both of the above have a full list of members on their sites.

I’m not in wales, but seem to remember that work in kitchens is notifiable via part p - it no longer is in England. That aside, why would you let a kitchen fitter mess around with your electrics? Almost every day I see the negative consequences of this. I’m sure there are a handful who are competent, but the odds won’t be favourable.

Unusual for them to fail like that, especially Hager ime. It won’t have been installer error as that contact has nothing to do with the terminals top or bottom. Sounds like it’s been running under its rated current too, albeit only slightly. Replace and move on!

Thanks guys. Think I may have found a local supplier of rehau

You can’t take more than 1 spur from a single point on the ring. You can’t create a ‘ring within a ring’. It’s always best to take a spur from an accessible point on the ring. Ie a socket. Buried joints are a nightmare sometimes when fault finding etc. Take 2 twin and earth cables from a socket. One to each socket and then another twin and earth between the 2 new sockets. Connect one old and one new twin and earth in the back of the existing socket and one old and one new into the socket front. It’s the easiest way of keeping it a true ring and what we do all the time. After, of course, verifying the existing ring is in good condition. Ring continuity, insulation resistance at a minimum. Also making sure there is RCD protection

It’s possible you could be paying that much if your spec was very complicated and/or included extensive garden lighting/PV/battery storage/EV charging/outbuildings etc etc. However it appear that on the basis of your WC price you’re being had. Day rates round here in the SE at least are around £350+vat for an experienced electrician/1 man band type. Will be a little more in London and I’d guess a bit less in the Midlands. Wonder if you’re anywhere near Nick Bundy of YouTube fame? He’s one of the only YT sparks I can stand watching (being in the trade myself). He seems an honest guy and his prices are very sensible. Think he’s in Stafford

Apologies if theres a recent thread on this topic, I couldn't find one. I'll need 4x pretty standard sized (1200mm high and between 1500mm-1900mm wide) white uPVC windows. Had a couple of quotes that seemed a little high to me for supply and install. I have a mate who's an ex fitter, who could be persuaded to help me fit, but I'd have to supply (and help). That sounds attractive to me, but I can't find any mention on here of getting hold of any of the big name windows supply only - REHAU etc. Can anyone make any suggestions? I know there are various online suppliers, but quality is unknown to me. Would obviously like good quality and prepared to pay more than the seemingly budget quality online offerings I've found so far. Thanks in advance.

After applying to local WA via BC for approval, it turns out they refused the application because we have a 600mm rainwater sewer that starts in our garden. Plan attached although it’s incorrect as it’s not as close to the house as shown. After a bit if investigation and various shrubs etc cut back and digging we’ve found the manhole under 4 inches of dirt. It’s the point where 225mm joins 600mm class 3/critical sewer. Then heads off away from the plot. 225mm sewer is currently down the side of the house around 600mm from house. It’s 2.5m away from the corner of proposed extension, but WA want 3.5m as it’s a ‘critical sewer’ Foundations to be over 1m below invert level and manhole to be accessible. We’ve requested a site visit. Hopefully common sense will be applied. Has anyone had similar?

A distance of 150mm through pir is not going to have a big impact on the current carrying capacity.

SWA glanded and stripped back to the internal bedding (it’s not insulation or sheathing) is not suitable to be run outside of containment.

A lot of trades (most?) are terrible at organisation and communication. It drives me mad as I have to work alongside them and occasionally subcontract work to them. The upside is I often pick up good, well paying work that somebody else hasn’t shown up to/hasn’t bothered to price for etc etc. The customers are usually very grateful and will recommend me as somebody reliable. My point being that you need to find someone who actually wants to do the work. That’s probably easier said than done, but they are out there.

He just doesn’t want to do it. As a rule I won’t test/certify the work of third parties, other than via EICR (which isn’t a certificate, rather a report). I find the work is always not to my standards or liking, and even if on the surface it is, I don’t know what’s lurking hidden. Many people will though. Have a ring around

Better if there’s no joints in the cable and run swa all the way.

Or Quinetic transmitter and receiver

Will a 13 amp supply be enough to run what you need in the hut? Assume the temp power you have available is TT earth (rod) and 30mA RCD fitted? Whatever you do, don’t buy that SY cable extension lead. Totally unsuitable for the task. As much as air con guys like to use it outside, it perishes in UV light eventually. Some people seem to think it’s a substitute for SWA! It isn’t. I find it hard to see how they’ve effectively earthed the braiding too. It should be something like H07-RNF flex. It all depends on the likelihood of damage in the particular situation though. Probably best to get some advice off your electrician.

Or don’t use them at all?

Probably never had any on there to start with? Looks fairly old?

Integral are generally decent. I’ve used them quite a lot over the years. Even they can’t make a reliable G9 though.

You could almost certainly keep the plate and just change the internals (module). https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLJP400MOD.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=&placement=&kw=&network=x&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=VLJP400MOD&product_partition_id=&campaign=shopping&version=finalurl_v3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA7t6sBhAiEiwAsaieYqWrl83urJ3xjMQcgXvuTyO_q4sro0nKdZjBamuGj_j3ei7Ncl5wzxoCGZ4QAvD_BwE

Knightsbridge dimmers are poor quality. I only fit Varilight V pro in general. They work well with 90% plus bulbs/fittings.

Just go with Click. Mode for white. Or Deco or Definity for Matt black finish. Much better quality than Knightsbridge imo.

Hard wired is always better for everything if possible. More reliable No battery changes Easier/cheaper to fix or replace for someone unfamiliar with the property More reliable! The amount of times I have to troubleshoot wireless heating controls that plumbers have supplied. Drives me mad.

https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/technical-blog/guide-to-creating-weatherproof-parapet-walls?hs_amp=true This is informative to someone with only basic knowledge (me!)

Not that I take too much notice and as above I’m no expert, but that seems like an unusual design and something I’ve never seen (at least noticed) before. To me it looks as though it’s missing a capping piece or coping stone etc, although it’s obviously been designed this way. Mortar isn’t waterproof so surely it’s inevitable water will find its way into the cavity. Ok, this should be dealt with, but it’s far from ideal. I’m sure someone more knowledgeable than me will be able to comment soon though

Sorry to hear about this. Do you have any pictures of the top of the parapet wall? I’m not an expert, but it sounds like trouble if what I’m imagining is accurate. Surely there should be an overhang though? Parapet walls are notorious for causing problems though, that much I do know.