saveasteading

On a simpler level, some private applicants submit a short letter to explain their intent. Entirely true or not, it goes down well with neighbours and councillors.

Had to strip 70m2 once as the timber shrank so much. Wish we had used screws. Unless the screw point is going to puncture a membrane then the longer will be better. Quite a few mm at the tip will not contribute to the fixing.

If a house is 'standard' then there are formulae for rebuild cost based on area. Try various online insurers (some use the formula way, some don't) and see what their costing comes to. If your house is a one-off then perhaps yours has some particular costs.

Bravo. For some reason, the government dropped the requirement of a d and a statement with every application. We continued to do them anyway. At an open meeting of parish councils with our planners, I told them that my business continued so to do, for the same reasons you state. It ticks off all the questions the planner has to ask anyway, so make it easy and quick. It addresses all the questions that need addressing, and some more, and it is wise to do so before application, not after. It concentrates the mind as a designer , to get the best from the project. The client can also review and perhaps understand the complexities properly. Most of all, if you can't prepare a d and a statement then you haven't designed it properly. I asked a planner once why they seemed to respect planning consultants so much, when I thought they might be almost enemies. The answer was that they make the job easier by referring to all the expectations and requirements of the application. They could swap jobs. The planner generally doesn't have any prejudices, so just make it easy. And lastly, a beautifully prepared d and a statement, such as yours, makes it easy for neighbours and parish councils to understand too. they are more likely to support the application.

Is the foundation also entirely on your land? How far would you say the wall face was inside the boundary?

It is the worst case, where demolition is not even easy, foundations are removed etc. Plus lots of consultants, and a one-off rebuild. In reality most insurance jobs are much cheaper. On the other hand, the land still has value. So the difference between rebuild cost and value is even greater. Under insure at your peril, as any claim will be paid only in part.

Active children don't need warm water anyway. This is all for nerdy fun.

I don't think so. The amount of heat lost to the ground will be tiny. It is fun to turn the pump off for a bit, then you get the same effect as when a hose in the sun is run...lovely hot water for a very short time. Thereafter the temperature difference will be small, but constant. If the water isn't too horrible, and retained for the next day, then a cover keeps the heat in....more prevention of evaporation than conventional cooling. I read a US contractor saying he refused to put in solar heating unless the client also allowed for a cover.

Yes will work, but how much? We have a solar tube system, just black pipes, in Spain. Half the area of the pool, facing south on a gantry. It can heat 60m3 by 3C on a midsummer's day but the emerging water is only 0.5C warmer. The cleaning pump runs it so no running cost. Allowing for the pump running I calculated 100 x efficiency. Cotswolds on a sunny day, not facing the sun, small pool? Deduct pump running cost. You tell us. Good fun though. Well done.

If i had to do this myself, due to urgency, and assuming some enthusiastic and strong assistance, then I would. I have knowledge but not much hands on with biggish areas. Levelling would be my concern, as the screed keeps on coming and tamping/floating would be difficult without experience. So i think i would leave it 2 to 3mm low as there will be glitches in level and screed marks. Then a few bags of self lelling screed will finish it off. If you don't have the knowledge, then get learning or go back to plans 1 and 2. Always bear in mind that you may not know how much you don't know.

It is simple really, and related to clear span and load. Planks span a long way but are heavy to lift, a pain at any changes in dimension, and have a significant camber. Commercial use usually. Specialist installation. Beam and block can span further than timber and are more solid, and lend themselves to middling spans, light commercial. If a house is designed to suit, then can compete with timber. Builders can install. Timber is for domestic spans, much easier to adapt to changes in shape, and can be cut/joined/nailed as required. Plus extra bits are available at any time.

I read you description before looking at the picture ProDave has copied. Doesn't look anything like as bad as i was expecting. Can you attach a few pics of the main concerns. Low resolution, not too many at this stage.

Yes damaged lots. They are seldom where shown. The good news is that it isn't fibre. All I have learnt is that the drawings are seldom accurate, the work is likely to not be to standard spec, but is likely to have followed the easiest route. Therefore it may be near the surface, not protected, and not marked by tape etc. They absolutely will charge for damage.

That makes a lot of sense, esp if it spreads the water further and helps the garden to grow. However the operation of the digester needs some balance of water for best results. The manufacturer can advise. I remember needing to increase digester size for a school' use because, excluding detail, the balance of contents differed from a domestic situation.

Nordan ordered this week. 12 weeks.

Ask the bco. As they haven't rejected the application outright, you know permission is coming. If you explain what you want to do and why, they 90% will allow it, if I understand your circumstances. Make it easy for them with a sketch and plan.

Sounds right to me. No point in breaking out solid rock to put back looser rock. You are right to ask the question. Keep doing so. Pictures too.

Why do you want to fill it?

Everybody above is correct. £250/ day not per hour , easy error to correct. Concrete at £200 / m3 is high. Stone by the lorry, and find what options available...type 1 spec'd as standard but ask for crushed concrete and other options. BUT first. Not knowing the circumstances of course, but my gut reaction on that slope is for beam and block, not raft. As well as saving materials it makes it all easy for traditional trades. Also removes retaining walls or banks that are not in your budget. Spend some of the saving on a good local SE. Question all suggestions politely and stress value. If you pay an SE for 10 hours work then they cannot test alternatives. The extra £1,000 can be repaid many times over IF you choose the right SE.

And that won't be outside the property.

OK. But if the sewer blocks, it is their building at risk. When you say 'agreed' is that not by the water company?

agreed. otherwise it can get very complicated. This will get your place back to a fit state, and no complications of proving where the money is allocated, or getting conflicting advice and slowing the works. Id think the insurance company would prefer it for the same reason, as there is scope for moving costs from one bill to the other. As a contractor, insurance work is not great. There are delays in decisions and usually in payment, too many parties to please, and a lot of risk of unknowns. so they will all sensibly add money for these. Plus it is London. Medway towns and their equivalent in all directions, emit hundreds of white vans into London every day, entailing at least 2 hours on the road which you have to pay for.

No problem with falling through the floor. That slab will have insulation on top of it which is very much weaker. But the foundations are very likely to be very small and shallow. Usually they need enlarging or underpinning, which can be a huge expense (If a barn moves and settles into the ground it is still good enough for hay or animals, If a house moves then the tiles crack, the drains stop working and the roof leaks and lots of other things.) Maybe you have additional columns or supporting walls that you have not mentioned. That can be a good solution. Ask your SE asap, to explain how this building is being upgraded to the necessary standards.

It depends. If the sunken area is clearly caused by the weight of vehicles (half a ton on each wheel just on 3 or 4 blocks), then relaying that area would suffice. (A) But if the rest might be loaded at some stage then it will probably settle too.(B) Sometimes lo-tech is best. Set aside the sunken blocks, lay up to bed level using sharp sand with a bit of cement. and compact it. Hire a vibrating plate for that, aiming for 30% or more discount on the list price. OR buy a tamping bar for £30, and get some free exercise. The thump from the bar gives you the confidence that the ground now carries a significant load. Any softer areas will be identified. Perhaps do the last 10mm in sharp sand loose, and keep it 2mm high, then the blocks can bed in. This may undulate a bit or move again, but should be very minor. You will need to grind off the nibs on the last blocks to go in. B. Lift all the blocks, compact the sub-base with your thumper, and it will very likely go down noticeably as you do. Where it has already sunk it may stay firm as the vehicle has done the work already. Check the level and bring it up to level with either sub-base (if thick) or sharp sand with some cement if thin, and compact it. Then, as you have a whole area, you can lay the blocks on the recommended depth of sharp sand, then vibrate the lot. Whether 20mm or more, the main thing is to allow for 10% settlement, and have the same thickness all over. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Steel-Professional-Contractors-Rammer---1-245m/p/186866

Beware though of anything that might be considered part of the new construction as the penalty for starting without a warrant is severe. Therefore i would contact the BCO and say what you would like to commence. Then there won't be any issues, and your courtesy is likely to be noted. Avoids any surprise visits too, as they will be aware of why, for example, a digger might be working. For example, if I was a bco I would consider the construction of any drainage or treatment to be under the warranty: best clarify.