saveasteading

"Eaves" confused me. Have read again and see you mean " like the eaves" . So do your way.

Bighouseproblems, can we go back a bit. Sandstone front. How thick, how formal/rubble? Any interna lining? brick rear. Ditto. I will read up on "warm batten" as this is the first I have heard of it but is what I am thinking of. Re earlier question, I am proposing cavity batt as used as full fill insulation, so is not going to absorb any moisture. From recent reading, a masonry wall with lime mortar is going to breathe outwards. I can't see that encouraging evaporation into a warmish internal void is a good thing.

Can you summarise for us all please?

I am going through the same thought process. I am returning to my original inclination to not leave an air gap. Instead to fill that space with waterproof cavity batt. Thus there is no air flow sucking away the condiderable thermal benefit of the stone wall. The external wall can breathe outwards. No possibility of damp (?) And improved insulstion.

You should do whatever the manufacturer shows. However: The extra tile props up the upper tile in the same way that every other tile is propped by the one below. The line is better to look at, and the slope does not increase into the gutter. Also extra weight against the wind at a vulnerable edge.

Ok so it is printed timber look plastic on an hdf base. Therefore moderately damp proof...probably. Best use a plastic based underlay

What kind of laminate? Wood or plastic?

I did a pm to mac because of the sensitivity, but not a lot of use really wjthout the full context. It is always a complex jigsaw of lapping and underlapping, while ensuring that the corrugations don't get in the way of flow, yet allow a seal. Perhaps easiest to cut all the touching sheets to length top and bottom. This may require additional battens. There is then less to think about, less to go wrong and less twisting of resisting elements. Cladding can be overclad, as long as it is sealed at every joint and is taken to the next flashing, eg ridge. Order plenty of spare sheets when there are openings, as even superb cladders make mistakes on openings..and there aren't many of them around.

Check the building regs re stability of walls, as the returns may be stabilising the walls. If that seems ok then still check with your dedigner.

can you pm me the photo ?

Rock with more rock under it. Can you advise what rock is under the rock, and why it doesn't seem to be a problem? The outlet from the digester is about 100mm below the inlet and then you have drains running downwards (obv). Is the rock going to be an issue all the way or can you use slopes? Final outlet to soakaways or burn?

How many water butts could you contrive? And a garden pond: the fish drink it all day.

Good design does not have to be expensive. But it is usually based on many years of learning and experience, so to give it away too cheaply can also be wrong (if it is your living). Expensive design is not necessarily good design. It takes longer to do something when less skilled. Some clients want and will pay for vanity projects (usually with someone else's money (churches, banks, universities, government), and just a few normal people. Most people want a box that will keep the weather out, last many years with low maintenance, and be a pleasant space to occupy, and cost as little as sensible to build. Thus there are those of us who need everything done by Architects*, or those who need Technicians, and those who pretty well know what they want and welcome some expertise. * who don't of course do 'everything', or necessarily understand costs or building science, though many of course do. And then there are those, sometimes on this Hub, who think it is all easy, don't agree to rules, and either suffer themselves or make the rest of us suffer. What was the question again? Ah yes, why do some people not appreciate me and pay me more? The answer in summary is that there are good and bad designers as well as good and bad clients.

What is under the 300mm of rock? I assume you also need to break the rock for a soakaway. The ground beneath needs to be permeable or it will not work. If getting a pecker in it is worth doing more work at the same time. I agree with the the recommendations above. Big machine and a pecker. Even if it was blasted first I am guessing that the rock would still be tightly in place and need a lot controlled force which a hand breaker will not have. The pecker may do it all in a very short time, but to try with a small breaker will take days or even weeks. This is not a diy job, so it is worth talking to your local hire company or contractor, who should know the ground and the best machine.

The rules have been relaxed. If you work to them there is no need to go back to any more theoretical documents. Whatever the rules say, it is best to put in chambers at intervals, and as shallow a change of direction as possible, to avoid or clear blockages.

Good idea. Is this a box-out and if so what material for framing? Anything else inside the box you are creating? If left void, the air in it will be very hot, and so will whatever structure you are using to form a box-out. I prefer to stuff the void with fireproof rockwool so that the heat goes away and doesn't affect the boxing, as it could distort then leak.

It is normal that there is no charge for rainwater that you keep on site, but you have to ask. Can that apply to you? The sewage rate usually includes an allowance for rainwater, so is reduced if you can show that you keep all yours.

Agreed re catching the junk at the bottom of the downpipe on a grille. If worried about splashing the walls you can build a shield around it, with or without a mousehole opening , just with a bigger piece of pipe

A big change of strategy for us. The neighbour who shares the supply is keen to improve it, so we are working together. In case of too low a flow in the summer we will both have storage thanks of about 3m3 and then take the water to the house by pump. Have not looked into treatment yet but it is clearly fairly normal. Very fortunately a near neighbour uses the same source and is in the borehole industry. I have done rainwater harvesters twice, but not for drinking. The water appeared perfectly normal. I didn't like the idea of 10% bypass to get rid of bits, so put a settlement chamber before the harvester. It was remarkably clean (top and bottom) when I checked. Obv would need a uv treatment to kill anything. Any particular queries?

The intumescent varnish is rather thick and can be noticeable. It is essential to do this properly, I have seen a fire test on a wooden faced wall and it is scary how quickly it flares up and smoke fills the room.

That document you referenced from SPAB is excellent, and recommended reading for anyone with an old property. It is short and well explained, and I have learnt more than I expected. (esp how water gets in through cement but not out again). https://www.spab.org.uk/advice/breathability-and-old-buildings

Glass I would think, but have not checked.

And they have lined the insulation face up, rather than push it back to the wall?

I design drainage with a 'what if' condition. What if the soakaway blocks/ water table rises/ drains are full locally etc? For example if the street drains were running full, then your rain-water will either back up or burst through the lowest escape point. So ensure that there is an escape and that any water coming out of it runs away with least harm. For your sewage, where does the flow go from the digester. The quantities are very much lower of course, and it will be near to clean.

Thanks for that link. Looks good and I will read it in detail. I have read, only today, that cement mortar carries moisture rather than being impervious. Will re-read that part. The document is splendid and deserves detailed study https://issuu.com/hspubs/docs/guide_for_practitioners_1_-_rural_b Rural Buildings of the Lothians: Conservation and Conversion, A guide for Practitioners. The main difference re geography is the stone type. We don't seem to have any cement where it shouldn't be. All lime. If the Building Officer decides to ask for holes I will need some proof. Ahhh. We have to move faster than that. However, when the roof and gutters are done, the wind that whips through the openings will dry it quite fast....and then there will be the scorching Highland summer. Many thanks.