saveasteading

Not sure that an electrician tends to be trained in fire protection. However, the protection by plasterboard tends to be better than the tests show (it sells more plasterboard), so the wires should be protected long enough for most situations. Tidy is always good though. I would insist on a thorough clean before the screed goes down, and taping of the joints to prevent the plastic lifting or screed running through. At least 3 sources of plastic there suggests any old offcuts of stuff is being used. I hate to think what the dpm is made of.

It is normal to trade insulation levels. Do you have areas where you can still increase insulation to balance a reduction in the windows. It is area dependent, so an attic area, for example, gives the opportunity.

I don't think we can shut off the external air completely. That would be a good feature though. I will enquire.

Agreed, of course not 100%, but many of the landowners call themselves farmers but either rent out the land or contract out all the work. If you watch 'this farming life' (recommended) on BBC I think most are tenants, and they are usually on leases of 10 to 25 years. I await being corrected.

Unfortunately not. Most farmers rent the land from large estates, who make the money and' of course' are 'the system'.

Roadside ditches belong to the LA. The likelihood of a farmer installing anything but the cheapest drain, is low. so it is likely to be a perforated coil pipe, and may not even be lined with membrane or surrounded with any sand or gravel, or even be laid to consistent fall. (In which case it may silt up or be blocked by roots in the future.) In that case it would already be a primitive french drain, and might suffice in itself. the amount of drainage field the reg's require for treated water is crazy. if i was a bco I would allow less when properly justified. It seems from discussion on here and with installers that very few installations are to the rules. Therefore connecting to an existing water course has to be favourite. Talk to BCO and he may just advise a simple soakaway.

A common worry. But is that not better in the long term than a home full of prolems and risks? What if he leaves? You have a delay. What if he carries on in the same manner? Firm but diplomatic is the way.

No, good people please put yourselves forward, or the others will run it.

The experts in the ground source industry now advise caution. And also admit that the ground needs warming again from solar or water movement. So nowadays, clay boreholes needs warming from solar arrays in summer. Near me they used 40m boreholes into clay. Half of the installations work , half have been replaced by air source.

Interesting point made recently was the air flow through the intake and up the flue, when the fire isn't lit. It will take room heat from the stove. So I am thinking we need a seasonal external cap on the intake. On a positive, a stove can provide stack ventilation in the summer for quick air changes (flue door open). I agree that insulating the intake pipe is a good idea, but you can simply stuff the void with leftover mineral wool.

A "plumber" who doesn't know how to avoid burning the wall, isn't really a plumber. I have met several. Apart from all the above tech points I would worry about the joints. Make sure it is tested.

I can't remember either. All comments always welcome. Not agreeing isn't necessarily " shooting down". If we didn't propose or challenge we would still be in caves.

What you say is right. But I have been at Borough planning meetings where the head planner has instructed the council that what a Councillor has just said is without merit as it does not relate to the application, or does not relate to policy. One of our applications had the vote delayed 3 times because the planner ( not chair) had to clarify what they were voting on, and to consider only the facts. Parish Councillors even more likely to use the "I don't like it" or conversely " their house, do whatever they like" logic. Difficult for clerk and chair...who may not be trained themselves.

Training is available, but most don't take it. Most don't even understand (or want to ) the codes applying to their role. Eg declaring an interest. On a more basic level, how many councillors can really understand and read drawings?

Some come with optional lenses for different spreads of light. It is worth drawing the room in section and the light spread, remembering that it may spread to 100% by the floor, but create light pools on tables etc.

Given that most contractors with this stuff appear to be charlatans, i wonder also about the manufacturers. If you (or we) come across tech info then it will need to be checked out. U values, stability, shrinkage, avoiding gaps, fumes, end of life disposal. Interesting of course to challenge the norm and find alternatives. Checking the cost against mineral wool may be interesting.

Not the case. They can make relevant comments ( consistent with the local plan) and can then be taken more seriously than other commenters. That applies both pro and con. Of course some just apply personal comments and try to bully. They also get a 3 minutes statement at a council statement if they ask....and it can make a difference. It does pay to be diplomatic.

1. Lots of photos of the installation, esp window condition. 2. Friendly chat with the boss, repeated with whoever is in charge if different. How do you work out the coursing so that there are no cut bricks or uneven joints? I am nervous of damaging the windows, with the very thin layer of colour...how do you prevent damage? If you get mortar on the window, how do you remove it without scratching the surface? 3. Here is a copy of the drawing showing details at interfaces....is this all doable? 4. How do you ensure that the walls dont have colour changes? Do these bricks need to be mixed? Do we have enough sand and cement to ensure it is all the same colour? Do this in whatever way suits your knowledge level, but asking the professional rather than telling, works best. E.g. you could say....i have heard that it is quite a skill to do this without cutting bricks....how do you experts do it? Between gritted teeth in my case.

Cromar Vent 3. But any good brand should be fine. Just avoid any that are sheets of plastic with holes punched in them.

Timber treatment no longer contains arsenic. So burning new offcuts is not releasing arsenic, whereas burning old demolition material possibly is.

2.5m above the roof will be unstable , so you would need 3 guy lines fixed to the roof. I agree with Conor. The amount of heat is what will restore smooth flow. I hadn't heard of the 5 x dia rule of thumb to return to stable flow, but it seems right based on drainage observations. I would fit what you need for building regs. If it doesnt work you can later add to the top. There are cowls to assist flow and prevent back-draughts, and i would have that rather than the very long pipe.

The contractor does

£2k sounds more like it. Plenty if you are doing the trench. £2k / 30m is nearing £70/m. Ask them to check that they are allowing your trench, only 30m and that it is a telephone cable , not fibre. Then ask for the original contractors back again. There is probably an appeal process printed on the quote. Or cancel.

.....hee hee, this will really wind SteamyTea up. I will type Kelvin Watt Hertz instead of kWh.

Fakro are a respected Polish company. No reason to think other Polish companies are poor quality either.