saveasteading

Replacing corrugated with corrugated is pointless. Previous comments apply. (Apologies for the multiple typos.) Cheap inner box, risks apply, but no-one will die.

You are of course, unless they can tell you where the offset is. They can offset a shortfall in the wall as long as it reaches minimum standard, with extra elsewhere.....but they probably use the same argument for the floor and roof and windows. The build quality is more my worry., having seen affordable housing with complete gaps. Ask them about airtightness? Actually my main concern is builders who just ignore the drawings, through ignorance and sometimes arrogance.

Do you have any spare headroom at the doors, so you could build on top without bumping your head? probably not. Any extra insulation, even 10mm will make a difference. My hunch is that the previous custodian has poured a simple concrete slab over the previous brick, including a dpm. How to find out? you could cut or bore a hole and see what you find. Infill with sand /cement back to level, but paint the inside and base of the hole with bitumen to maintain a dampness barrier. If you do, you it would be worth going through the underlayer until you hit earth, to see what is there, and how deep.

Yes this is not fair, and you have to doubt the principles throughout the business. I would always prefer the supplier who gives a fair price straight off. Let me give you an extreme example. A very big order of fibreglass quilt(2,000m2) SIG: let me look on the screen, yes we can give you a price of £x/m2......long, long pause, and 30% discount. Me: I was looking for much more than that SIG: what other prices do you have, as we will match it. Me: I am not telling you that, and will only go back to the best supplier, so what is your best price? SIG: Ahhh, it isn't really how we work but I can offer 60% Me: look at your records and see that you sold to us at 70% 3 months ago. SIG: ahhh but that was in Oxfordshire , we don't give that discount in Kent. Me: but it is a lorry load straight from the factory and you don't handle it. SIG: no it is just policy. so I got a better price eventually but bought it at similar elsewhere, where the quote was not a try-on.

Bars I can't help with, except agree the advice above to get help from a bat expert, not enthusiast. For GCN I can help. I've done maybe 6 or 7 planning apps where newts were likely. In no cases did we do a survey at great expense, or relocate newts (at great expense). Who does the survey, makes the recommendations and then does the work? Yes, so don't go there. We always just accepted that there were newts, which we loved and respected, so no point in catching them. Any expert knows that newts are all in the water at a certain period, so that is when you strip the ground. Sorted. Except some 'experts' may forget to mention that option.

Up to you of course. £50 won't go far with 3 coats required for the one i just looked up. The glossy website says lots of vague things. Under 'testing' it says that the company's profucts have been tested. Nog which products anc for what. Eg ig could be quality control only, confirming that the pajnt is paint. No performance statements or certificates. So this is very dubious, but probably harmless.

If it looks darkish grey and weatherbeaten then it is likely to bd asbestos fibres in it. Not dangerous in the slightest unless you make dust from it. The likeliest problem would confensatikn or other damp getting onto or into your new inner ceiling. As a ptoper job, get the sheeting removed and build a suitable new roof, with insulation. As a justifiable bodge, build an understructure, but separate it from the roof with polythene covering, on a slope. It may fail but at 1/4 the cost of the proper job.

I haven't seen anything credible. It is exactly what my house needs, so please show me it is real. I asked a distributor for proof and he just showed me his leaflet again.

Outdoors, wih a long brush. Mask if you wish. Safe i would say. Once applied it will be safe.

It is like used engine oil. I used it on raised bed timbers and it seems to work as a preservative, but I think might look poor on a shed.

Draughts first, yes agreed. pull the furniture away from the walls and get down close where you can feel the cold air coming in. (you won't feel warmer air going out, which might still be happening). I have never use smoke sticks but that seems worthwhile. Floors lose most heat near to outside walls, when built solid on the ground, as the earth has quite a bit of thermal resistance. In your house though, probably most of the floor is within 3m of the outside. Insulating the floor is the most efficient, as you get the immediate benefit of warmer feet. That house probably had a loose brick floor, if anything, originally. It may still be there, built over, in which case removal might not be too bad. BUT beware that digging out internally will expose the foundations, which are likely very shallow....but can be overcome with care.

Do they know that you are looking for weaknesses? ie that they aren't just testing , but going round with a smoke stick looking for gaps? If they were to do the test, then pack up and leave without you knowing where the problems were, it wouldn't be much help. Remember to close trickle vents and blank off all extract fans in advance.

I just saw this, flagged up by the system. I don't think so. There will be an OG curve. Generally projects get cheaper £/m2 as they get bigger, but then it flattens off. Of course bigger projects tend to be flasher, but that won't be a sudden step, and it will be a similar curve but higher up the £ scale. Also big projects need bigger companies, to handle the cashflow but again, there is no threshold.

Thanks, that is helpful and we can concentrate on what is possible. Would you like to summarise any outstanding questions, and any fundamental constraints from your own aspirations.?

I didn't know how useful a mitre saw was until I got one, by chance. It is a battery powered one, so not what a professional would want, but for diy it is superb. I can't cut straight, so this was just the business esp for mouldings.

They can, although it will actually be from their insurer, so you have cover in case of a huge claim. BUT they don't have to, and it adds little value anyway. Any qualified and fully insured professional will have PI (professional Indemnity) insurance , and this covers you for (from memory) 10 or 12 years. No extra cost, just ask for a copy of their cover (which has cost them a lot annually). But in the case of a problem you can only claim for their element of responsibility, not necessarily for the whole matter. When any of our clients asked for a design warranty our insurer was fine with it....it actually reduced risk they said because the terms were so defined. Perhaps, but isn't it more that you want what isn't available? The more you put a project entirely in the hands of one party, either project manager or a design and build contractor, the more you are covered.....but you have to pay them for the management and risk.. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who had a successful claim on a warranty. Insurance companies' priority is often to find a way out of liability. Next they try to pass the responsibility on to one of the professionals (under their PI) , which is protection you already have. I think most issues are with build quality, not primary design. As to bad planning advice. Of course we don't know the circumstances and perhaps it was wrong advice. But if planning permission was certain, there would be no need to apply, and there are lots of grey areas. Does the contract say that he guaranteed approval? If the advice was clearly completely silly, then you have a claim against the Architect, and if he uses the term Architect, then he has to be ARB registered, and there is a complaints process.

screwfix £1.07.. Just check the dimensions.

I checked with the team...we have set up a new account just as the couple doing the project.

Yes, There isn't much light to start it fading yet. Also it lets the shed move and shrink, which looks bad after you have stained it. I agree to use high quality material. The labour is the same, maybe less. To keep the colour on a shed I suggest using light oak varnish. It goes on much the same colour as 'preservative treated shed', which isn't such a good name. But that colour will then stay. I always used Sadolin but Ronseal is prob fine.

The great thing about mdf is that it bends any direction. If ready painted beware the manufacturer's sticker which they always seem to put on the good side. Perhaps there is a way of removing it without the paint. The thin adhesive doesn't usually grip , so works well on flat surfaces. If there are twists you need the gunky kind. No nail holes is good, esp as non-shrink caulk always seems to shrink for me.

I look forward to being rebutted on this, but here are some generlaisation: Architects are taught presentation and self-belief throughout uni. That is a great boost in their careers, but perhaps doesn't allow for enough self-reflection. In time they change, or go different directions, and few with the utter self-belief are involved in modest house design...they just have to be more practical and try to understand budget. Civil Engineers mostly end up in general management, having learnt to juggle options and decisions. Structural Engineers are more focussed on numbers. There are few who can juggle the disciplines like Gus. I thought I would met many in the industry but only a valuable few. I went to a lecture once by the head of a large architectural practice. His name on the letterhead. He said that he did concepts and passed it down. They made it work in principle and passed it on. Eventually the graduate had to make it work and keep the rain out. He proposed that this was perhaps back to front, but wasn't about to change.

I had a load fail, through wear internally. They were cheap multipacks from one of the sheds. The problem was the interface in the picture where the hard spindle wore out the softer latch. I bought a stack of replacements from Ironmongery Direct, which have been fine

Did you get an indication out of him on the price of doors? Our joiner has an account, so we could have used that for the 'access' and paid Howdens direct. This would depend on agreement that any delivery or quality issues would be your problem not theirs. But there was no need. I'll have to check but I think we did get our own account, by showing business credentials. Depends on your circumstances. Needing a kitchen too?

If there is drainage on site or you put it in early, it is worth looking at a loo that can discharge to it. saves a lot of emptying. We once bought a saniflo to get to a more distant drain. Or when the roof is on, knock up a room around a future toilet. A wc only costs about £60

Full marks. Have you checked if the fibre-cement is asbestos free? It looks as if it is modern enough to be polypropylene not asbestos. If so, it doesn't have to come off and you can build above it for insulation and weather (IF allowed for height) and below for appearance. But you might choose to strip and start again anyway, but keep the purlins. IanR solution. Returning to question 1. What is the cost? I don't know. Most people are saying about £2,000/m2 for new-build. If that is accurate I can only advise you to allow more, for the hassles and unknowns, and perhaps designers who don't want (or understand how) to optimise with what is available. For example I have seen loads of designs which say to beak out all the concrete slab, then rebuild. I wouldn't, but they have. Not their money, or it didn't cross their mind. Did you ever tell us approx area of the country? You don't need to, as all this discussion is publicly available in a search.