saveasteading

Interesting, thanks. I have read the rulings on enclosed cupboards and am none the wiser. I think we will use the principle of reading the simpler rules, and not pushing our luck.

No I don't think I would measure, as long as it looks reasonable. But we'd like to comply and somebody has calculated these distances as appropriate. If I'm ever in a wheelchair I'll be glad of the ramped entrance, level ground floor (which required some cute design) wide enough doors and general space. I don't think there are any minimum standards in England and longer. The site team will be looking at your helpful comments soon, but are on other priorities today. Does an architrave have any purpose other than aesthetics and covering the plaster edge? Balance is to be preferred of course.

Interesting. Old bricks tended to be bent and twisted so a thicker bed would have resolved the problem. You can still get rustic bricks. They cost more and the brickies will hate them and try to reject about 1/4. I wonder if bricks used to be more expensive than mortar in some areas.

Thanks again. All the advice cut and pasted to the site team who are also grateful. First responses is that the doors have to be where they are, and will be without architraves if necessary. The approved design first makes the rooms work as intended, but also must show clear space and access for disabled access. A Scottish rule, and a good one, so that an ageing occupant (or other need) can live on one level. I am wondering if we should have diagonals next to door hanging studs, or if the double stud plus dwang (noggin) suffices. The intended doors are rather heavy.

With apologies if any of my generam comments about "brickies" causes offence. I have encounteted so many so called brickies, plumbers etc, with minimal skill and less knowledge, but the certainty that is attached to ignorance. Also several who are a source of wonder and delight. If there is a better way of wording then I will try. .

It seems clear that hard fitted equipment and furnishings are deemed vat recoverable. So tiles yes, carpets no. Utility wall cabinet yes, washing machine no. Curtain pole yes, curtains no. Etc.

We had 3 phase just 20m away but the transformer would need changing . £15k. Advice from many sources (incl here) was that it was very unlikely that we would have it all running. And yes, 3 electric cars may need charging, but charging systems/ timing systems will come too. And we will have more solar panels. What some people were getting wrong was that a 12kW ashp uses about 3kW, that being the whole point of them So we will have 350m2 off single phase.

He works for a company that has a policy to start high, and quickly tells you he can do better. I don't give them a second chance. Price matching is easy for businesses that don't have the skills/ethics to offer a competitive price. And they will be lacking in service too. Others give the fair price every time. I know which I prefer, but it can take some finding.

Anything that stops air flowing through the curtain.

One very good client (it turned out) called me to site after quotations and started by saying " we need to discuss the price". OK say I, but it can only go up. Or I can tell you where there are design simplifications. (All declined). Good project, everyone happy, and a very good written client quote for the website.

Good to hear of progress. Keep us informed please.

In approximate terms, a wall tends to break about 1/3 up from the base. An earth or stone filled (rammed) patio up to that level might hold it. My garden sprayer is not very precise. Be careful not to accidently spray weedkiller onto the offending plants. Be careful several times a year. You are allowed to cut overhanging branches , but not to spray them.

A utility room is part of the house. I can't see what the issue is.

Thanks I will pass these comments to the team. Joinery isn't my thing. It may be that there are constraints on the door positions as we have the constraints of the geometry and the need for disabled movement space. Or maybe we need to change it as suggested. There is only 1/4 done, so they are learning all the way. Any advice on the tools to buy for door hanging? There are over 20 so it is worth getting the right stuff.

Progress photos. I am seriously impressed with this workmanship, for our complete beginners.

"They" meaning contractors? Nor fair. Don't assume everyone is the same. My first price was the right price. If you want it cheaper use someone else or we can discuss some optional changes. Of course others may quote too cheap then look for extras. Ask by all means, but beware what might be changed in service of quality. Except, to be open about it, when a repeat client always needed to negotiate a discount. Then you add 2% so it can come off again.

One other thing re domestic use. Who wants to hear rainwater in pipes boxed into the living room / bedroom?

When i have had to use valleys or internal gutters, I have worked out the flows and gutter dimensions myself, and ensured large tapered outlets to maximise flow. This because the theoretical depth doesn't allow for sag in the gutter, or the massive risk if it fails. I discussed this with a supplier expert, and asked what they do in tropical areas. Of course they avoid internal gutters , but have extra deep ones if necessary. In a portal frame this requires special detailing and deeper purlins, which can be costly.....but the architect isn't paying of course.. Another issue is splash from one side onto the other. Also always visited site during or after heavy rain as a check in advance of handover, or tried to test it if no rain. But external is best. Control nature, don't try to defeat it.

A wall is made of brick, bonded with mortar. Thus too much mortar is not good. Just in case you don't know (and some "brickies" certainly don't) obtain all the sand and cement you need in one delivery, so that the colour doesn't vary. Bricks too, and you may need to mix them between pallets as the bricky might not. Discuss with the bricky, as a good one knows all this.

Not so. External gutters can be deep and carry more water. The biggest span I did was 50m and the gutters and dp were external. If a freak rainstorm, or blockage, overwhelms the capacity, then the water spills harmlessly. With an internal gutter it overfills and tries to force through rubber profiles. For that reason, Internals must have greater spare capacity and end up huge. No, parapets are there for appearance not function. (They also increase snow buildup and need extra support from the structure)..and snow blocks the gutter, so send workers up to clear it ir risk leaks) Also, seagulls love parapet walls to build nests.....in or beside the gutter. A leak in a warehouse can, indeed, be catastrophic financially. There is case law for a blameless QS being liable for water damage and repair (millions) when the other designers and builder went handily out of business. I have done internals. Oversized and additional outlets is the answer, but was still the aspect of the designs that worried me.

Yes rain is seen as an inconvenience by some. Building internal gutters increases the risk of leaks dramatically, especially when gutters block. I have never known a client to want to pay extra (a lot extra) for internal gutters. They only want the building to keep the weather out, so keep it out. The gutters, downpipes and drains. Secret gutters, sometimes behind parapets (to conceal that there is a pitched roof) are specified by architects usually, for appearance only. Philistine me, I try to give clients a choice, and there is only one answer once they know the implications. I think I've done 5 internal gutters, where I did not have enough influence (and the end client was not asked) so know of what i speak. If you are sold on the appearance, allow for the extra cost, watch the build quality constantly, and clean the gutters at least 4 times a year.

Thanks. I tried another search and success this time. Even the right style of door. Much more solid and thicker veneer than I had expected. Whether our amateurs can get this right first time, or just cap the cut, i will report later.

I did read somewhere that uk electrocutions are a lot lower than other countries with 200+ volts. That needs checking though.

Did this on 50 + buildings. None houses but not one person ever had a problem. After 10 years nothing has changed. I think I prefer that to a board covering that would need a connection. Full bricks are cheaper than slips, and more stable, so use block inner and brick outer for preference.

Cordless scissors.