saveasteading

Want to discuss the structural side of it?

Yes. Hadn't thought of that. Apart from saving on delivery costs, it has saved many a day's work by picking up a bulky essential. Then trips to the tip. Our first ' bargain' one collapsed and cost as much again though. The £180 mixer (not big) has also repaid itself many times. One day it mixed a whole 14m2 floor slab....a barrowload at a time can work, if organised. Scaffold tower and scaffold platform have made work safer and more thorough. Being there, they get used by default and reduce ladder use.

In principle the mini digger. But at what cost? Used ones are often on their last legs and one more breakdown can be their last. How mini? Not too mini or you will still need to hire often.

It's safety. Yours and your children's and your visitors'. If you turn right and an oncoming car hits the side of your car then that could be serious. OK so they are supposed to be driving at 20, and braking vigorously. But they might be doing 30 and not paying attention. You will creep out of the drive then put your foot down to reduce the chance of an accident. That is why the rules are there. Planners won't care and will depend on Highways. Highways just want a piece of paper in the file that excuses them in the case of a claim. That's all I want to say: over to you. BTW 20mph saves a lot of lives and distress, but the current government are threatening to abandon the principle in a lives for votes equation. I don't know if Highways will consider that.

Positioned over a prop, to avoid a joint in mid span. Interesting cracks. Engineers design with safety factors. That isn't over-engineering. But my original point stands. For use in an ancillary building, these jointed beams are OK, but splicing wouldn't be a bad idea. If the 75% is anything like accurate, it is easy enough to consider them spanning 20% shorter than for the equivalent natural C16.

Thanks. All the more reasonable to click it out and clean the seal. But it looks like a total dismantling of the cistern is coming. Maybe a couple more heave hoes first.

I'm interested, having never seen this advertised other than as furniture. Youd think it would be commonplace to reduce waste. Can't see anything definitive yet. This one thing contra. Finger-jointed lumber and timber can be fabricated to have 75% of the strength of clear wood

Good point.

My thoughts. These precision scarf joints are amazing. But I don't know that they are ever used structurally. I've smashed some up and they failed elsewhere than the joints, but that's not proof of being strong as joists. If there is no need for proof, and it isn't an inhabited space, then I agree to add some extra splicing. Steel plates will look deliberate but will cost about £30 each. Nail plates will do but may look crummy. Plywood will do too, but should be longer. Lots of nails.

Nothing, except it's another thing to do, and it might be stuck too, and then the plumber's gunk. Worst is that the plastic breaks in situ. The internal hangers have bits missing so it's all perhaps brittle, or badly treated. Or maybe it's masticced in. I've done this a couple of times before, and thought modern ones were all supposed to click out.

I can't release the flush mechanism. From previous experience it needs a slight twist to release, then clean the rubber seal or replace. In practice I'll probably change the whole thing as its mucky, bits broken off, and single flush. But I can't budge it, either by wiggling and lifting or by twisting. I'm wondering if those grooves are there for tool purchase. I'm concerned that the original installer put some adhesive in, although it's more likely lime, which is the issue anyway. Heave ho? Or something subtler? It's a roca cistern but not necessarily the same innards.

I once got some at tlc where there were additional lens options so I had some wide angles where needed.

What matters is that water flows out. So check the running surface of it when installing, as well as the edges, from corners to drain.

Clay pipes can be high quality with strength and good seals, say built 20 to 50 years ago. Older might be suspect. If there were no drains, say dug up by accident, would you put new in the same place or round the perimeter?

Not expensive and you get to keep the tool. £13 for a Rawl one, or double that at SF.

Not related?

Especially if someone sits on it. But the brackets are usually big and can take a few fixings, separated. My mention of cubicles above: the specialist had exclusion clauses re fixings. I bought the fixings and setting too and wrote a letter taking responsibility. The fitter was impressed, saying this was the best system he had used. I'm not sure I got the tool back.

Not a bad plan. Drill a few holes in for quick access for bugs and water, and it will be gone in 2 years.

Found what i was talking about. With this tool the fixing pulls tight without spinning and so there is no damage to the plasterboard. Then you remove the screw and use it for your radiator. Highly recommended

As if BG and Knauf don't know what they are doing? If this was me I would investigate further for some misunderstanding, and esp phone the suppliers.

On a small kitchen revamp I used tiltable downlighters. Just a few degrees allowed tweaking to improve distribution.

I'd not fix into the external wall but use butterflies behind the plasterboard. Either the spring ones or those that open out when screwing BUT with the special tool like a rivet gun or it just spins around. I've had school toilet cubicles fixed with them. As below. Gripits look good but I haven't tried them.

I've used full fill as my preferred option on several cavity wall projects. I much prefer it because it is idiot proof, doesn't need a gap, and prevents spots falling in the gap. No problems anywhere. Were they exposed? I can't recall if any seaside jobs had it but I wouldn't hesitate to use it. Even if damp got through a brick, it would have to be sucked into the insulation. Full fill won't do that. If still in doubt, phone BG or Knauff, who I find very helpful.

Or to eat it, not throw it.

They aren't £8 each. Maybe that is a bag of them. I prefer plastic wheel spacers as they snap on easily and done weaken the concrete much.