saveasteading

That's my problem. One of my problems.

I It wouldn't have certification , but might do the job perfectly well IF: If it is a solid core fire door, and the lipping can be replaced, then intumescent strip around it. That might all be work for a 'proper' joiner. At the end of that, the door, if shut, would prevent fire from spreading. Would it be a safe space to be in though? Smoke alarms too. And then it wouldn't be official, so there might be an issue when selling, but no worse than at present.

I didn't know this. Can you explain why the toothing helps get it flat? As a poor plasterer, I like the products with a high latex content. It is stickier to the wall, less effort to float and takes a while to go off (for second chances)

If the neighbours are close and you are caring, then a gap-boarded fence could be built to baffle the sideways noise. Air can wiggle through while noise bounces back or just disappears

Not complicated, just surprisingly difficult. I can't make it smooth so have settled for the Mediterranean rustic look of deliberate trowel swoops. If you want flat, then for a pro it's quick and easy. They do that and only that every day, and get good at it.

I wasn't aware of that product or the very high strength. I'm a bit surprised that it can be so dense and still insulate well. I hope to see a sample some time. Can we be sure that it will do this job long term? Resisting shrinkage and insect burrowing for example. ie it doesn't matter against an outside wall or under roof sheeting, but supporting a structural wall?

I must emphasise how much you don't want this to happen. PIR floats. The screed keeps coming. Seal any laps or tears.

It is normal to set the batter board a convenient height above ground level, both for eying between them and for an easy sum. so 1.5m is ok. the one at the top of the hill points into the ground, showing the cut. There is a lot to be said for them as they work from one side to the other , with no need for calculating the finished level at each spot. if you also make a 'traveller, of the same height (1.5m) then it simply eyes through and you now roughly how much to excavate. you can make feet for them so they stay standing they don't steam up in the rain or cost hundreds or more if they fall over. for the precision stage you either pull a fishing line tight across them, or then use a level. primitive but a good option. they look cool on site too. especially painted red and white. or get someone else to do it. I resist because I don't need to, and because they've made expensive mistakes on my sites when made to use them. Always step back from your or another's setting out and decide if it looks right.

12mm overhangs don't seem like a huge problem. If 100 is not working for you, try concrete lintels, 140mm wide ? 3 heights available. Or lintels or blocks 100mm wide, and the oversail (inside, outside or both) might be acceptable with some thought. One thing at a time. We need to know the whole wall construction really.

Yes please. I've noticed that the prices from diy shops are very much cheaper in the country of origin. They've still been on lorries just not so far, so there is a big mark-up here. BUT we got very big discounts here for large quantities. I mean 3 pallets as this post. Off he budget ranges, not so much.

I think the difference is that the gauge measures conductivity. through wet wood is very different to through wet concrete. I'm sure its fine from what you've said and done. If the repair is still damp you've sealed it so tats good too.

That shouldn't be after this time. A puddle of 9mm would have evaporated in that time. either there is damp in the whole floor, or the measuring process is wrong. I once had this with a huge floor that 'stuck' at high humidity despite heat and ventilation. it turned out I was using the gauge wrongly.

We built an office and got a D rating, largely because ashp was a radical thing and rated badly in the epc programme 15 years ago. Because they were rated as if straight electric heating. Now the programme has caught up and the same building gets a B, even though no changes have been made. It was a thorough and professional rating. I am aware that others are sometimes available that give a nice rating for a fee, or accept erroneous statements without question.

Solar panels with tanks on the roofs are common in Greece but rare in Spain.. I don't know why. So simple for free hot water, although the last in the shower has missed it.

add shoes and walking must raise height by 3cm? I lived in an old house and never caught my head on the ancient tiny doors because I developed a pace that allowed an easy ducking under. But I was often caught out when I turned back for any reason . Would I put in even lower doors to avoid this? that would be selfish and unfair on slightly smaller people. Perhaps round off the door frame liners or fit a quadrant. There is a pub near here where I can only stand between the oak floor joists in the ceiling, and my head skims the ceiling. I don't often go there.

Ouch. Very low doors you see coming and duck under. Slightly low doors are installed to catch the unwary on an up-step or doing a Columbo U-turn..

OK so it won't get soaking wet, and will seldom if ever have aluminium pans laid on it. Also less need for vigorous scrubbing, so it might be ok. Varnish will seal it of course but looks different to oil.

It cannot be, if we are thinking of slinkies here. They get their heat from the summer warmth being stored in the ground. At some stage in the winter the heat will mostly be gone It has been quietly acknowledged by ethical gshp suppliers that it is necessary to recharge the ground in summer, using solar panels, or reversing the process to chill the house and warm the ground.

Danish Oil I think. Several coats. As was recommended. I'm hoping for a miracle chemical that will bleach away the black. Rhubarb sticks rubbed in was one recommendation and it does work a bit. A patient joiner for 3 days with scrapers was the only real solution, but then it recurred.

you can have anything you want really. NB with sliding gates there have to be pressure stops in case a child sticks an arm through and gets crushed. I've tried to avoid this cost on the basis of them being non-automatic, ie supervised. but it seems that can't even be by fob, so needs a button at the gate to be pushed It doesn't apply to swinging gates.

We have an oak worktop and regret it. It stains black with water or with aluminium . Unless you keep it constantly re-oiled it is a problem. the stains go deep too and need to be scraped off with 1mm of wood.

That, and specified by parasites. they wanted the subsidies and were into greenwash.

On the project I mentioned above they were forever working on the heat exchangers. That may have been intended as a distraction from the real problem though: that it wasn't working because all the available heat had already been taken from the ground.

If it helps your decision, a develoment local to me had GSHP 80m deep, and 8 houses have abandoned them and installed ASHP. The cost of running the gshp was much more than direct electric heating would have been. gshp does not work in heavy clay. If you are in Iceland and above hot rocks then that is different. ashp can multiply the input energy by up to 6. gshp will be x 1.5 if you are lucky and -0.5 if as above. If you are researching from scratch and looking at options then great. We here can all help with both practice and science. If you are getting advice to use gshp then you are getting very bad advice, unless in Iceland etc. If this is from a current advisor or contractor, then its time to lose them and perhaps discard all their information and advice to date.

I reckon it will do the job fine. 100mm isn't thick. but give it plenty of whacking because type 3 has voids in it and may joggle into place after a few whacks. A very heavy roller might even be too heavy for this, and form itself a hollow. or skim a bit of the top and do it in 2 layers.