saveasteading

That is what it says, based on that map, but a later one shows 'the future' and it includes central areas and eastern. It is purely my observation that floods in Hastings and Tunbridge Wells were during rain events that were only mild , just a couple of miles away. I don't know if that would show up in these maps. Of course, urban areas that are not served by modern drainage will get a very quick build-up of water from roofs and roads, so 50mm is perhaps not a critical number there, but would be in flood plains.

Are there any suggestions that breaking the crust helps it digest? Air bubbling through might digest it.

Is taking 5 minutes each time to find which connection has popped out...or fused. And tripping over the cable.....they move when you aren't looking. No question though.We have power. I will get an electric. Cheaper, quieter, doesn't run dry.

I can't recall encountering that, in 50 years and countless exposure to site workers. Even on sites run by nasty main contractors. They bullied corporately and at management level.....and mostly disappeared. It would be a very bad indicator for quality expectation. @Chefjoiner i think move.

It is easy to fix an anchor into the wall. I like the ones which are a threaded fixing left in the wall, and a screwed-in eye. You shouldn't need it if the feet are on a solid base, but it stops any wobble and adds confidence.

I had not heard of this. Required by whom? I had to empty a "country" cess pit because it was failing. But that was after 50 years, maybe more. Even after a sucklift, there was 4" of black sludge on the bottom plus various items. Does a modern treatment tank need it or is it an advisable routine? It has since worked fine for 8 years tho the outlet liquid isn't nice.

Aberlour is one of my favourites. The village is OK too.

If you took these out, the bottom of the joists might rotate and be understrength. So stop that happening with a stud across the bottom, timber or steel. You could do the same at the top to save the floor doing the work. Work out how much space you need and size to allow it.

these 2 pipes need to ne 450mm apart. water at -750, electric at -450, generally. A plough that simply slits the ground for the pipe to go in behind it, and closes itself behind. Ok for a farm doing its own thing. I don't think they go deep enough for the water company rules, nor do they lay a warning tape above the pipe.

It depends on rainfall rates as well. This is not related to annual rainfall. For example SE England gets occasional very intense storms, hence flooding in London, Tunbridge Wells and Hastings recently. Allow 0.022 litres/ second/m2 for London but just 0.016 along the more consistently wetter west coast. The point of the retention is to protect downstream. eg The Glastonbury Levels get flooded because water reaches there so quickly form the catchment area. Development. and farmers ploughing downhill. and streams being cleared cause the same rain to flow faster to one place. A particular location may have local rainfall effects but the map used is more general with rainfall isopleths, one of my favourite words. I would cut and paste the chart, but the new 'improved' Windows 11 doesn't seem to have a 'snip' function.

That would slow the flow significantly. The most efficient flow in a drain is at about 3/4 full and of course unrestricted downstream. So you would need a bigger pipe, or the water may start to pop up manhole covers and squirt out of joints/ pour out of gutters.

I am a great fan of swales. If you have the room and the topography. This simple hollow can take loads of water and it disappears by percolation and evaporation. Nature does the work, and little reaches the drainage infrastructure downstream...and it is easy and cheap.

Welcome. Don't tell us where exactly, but 'Scotland' is over-doing the anonymity. 450 miles long with very varying conditions, and how best to build. Wet West? Dry East? Blowy North? Or perfect Perth. In a town or isolated? Anyway, get reading first. Most of it is on here already.

The roof ripping off has to be considered too. Uplift is huge when there is a solid roof and open sides. I don't think so. A steel would be that size, so timber will be deeper. Otoh it isn't an occupied building. You won't be in it during the 50 year storm. Would you risk it collapsing every 10 years or so?

I think it needs intermediate draw points at the corners, whether pits or chambers. I've seen a 32mm cable stick in an official duct with just a slight bend in it. OR these 90° bends are indicative and very slow bends are allowed. Straight into trench would be so much easier, as long as you don't have to fence it off for safety.

That may be reasonable in that the stored volume of water will not permeate thriugh your clay at any useful rate. Ie critical storms these days are very heavy downpours, but tne soakaway amount will remain slow.

That is like suspending a very heavy car `(Landrover etc) every 600mm. It is a lot of load . This is too technical and specific for me to say much on, However, without doing any analysis I would simply say that you will not be needing 24kN resistance eat 600 centres. I would go for '2' probably, but it isn't for me to say....and you will worry whenever the wind blows. especially as you say you are a perfectionist, so must make your own mind up. So you should probably ask your SE immediately while telling your joiner to pause OR use the specified fixings.

What is the rest of the structure, below and above the floor level?

Killing the woodworm is presumably easy. Is there rot? Have the floor joists been examined. Any pictures? Covering the problem with osb was an easy way out for your predecessors, and ideal for the worms.

It also needs a big hole, a concrete base, a top (biscuit) , and an access cover. And a hydyobrake. And it is heavy. £3k at a guess. The inlet will be near the top. The outlet at the bottom. Have you got the fall for it?. Meaning you think it was? It is unlikely to have been oversized. Crates de-skill the construction and are usually better value if there is a driveway anyway. We can't comment without the details and circumstances If both projects.

What have your discussions to date established or suggested? This may influence the specialism of the consultant you need. Have you tried local social media? There may be businesses who do a certain amount of pro bono work for local good causes.

That's a deal.

That's what I meant.

Then you need some ventilation. Insulate and deaughtproof first. Provide controlled ventilation after that. If you infill the gap with a window in it you are sorted. Assuming it is to be a workshop and not a living space.

So you need to protect it, whether or not the bco has thought about it. If you have had this professionally designed, speak to them. Boxed in 2 layers of ordinary plasterboard is best. Otherwise lots of intumescent paint and special top coat.