saveasteading

How exciting. It is an office block Or hotel. Few builders can do this so you need big, commercial builders. Add 50% to any general guidelines. A 2 storey retaining wall is remarkable. Huge costs. Also concrete is unforgiving. Where do insulation and services go? My hunch is that steel, or hybrid, might be better value, but I would be costing it in several ways. Presumably you don't have much external space, hence the 6 cars in the basement. So lots of excavation and retaining walls, and high muck away costs? You need a lift. My hunch is to agree with the £4M plus VAT. Plus allow risk. I can't see anybody with £5M available living in a caravan for 2 years.

Leaks have all stopped for now. floor and ceiling drying, and dining table safe So today I went to do the simple task of removing the overflow and perhaps adding a sealing ring and re-fixing it. Not so easy. I couldn't unwind the plastic nut because it is damaged with what looks like a hacksaw cut. It appears that the original fitter was at the preschool stage of his apprenticeship. The thread is damaged under the nut...that's why he hadn't tightened it. Had to saw it off. Also the washer is on the outside.. it should be inside? Yes. Or both? so... pop up to screwfix for a new one? next day delivery and only in packs of five. cheap though. so,,,to Travis Perkins. None in stock and didn't really know what I meant. Now ordered from SF. Yet gain SF stocks annoyingly low, with half of what I want being next day. Replacement inlet valves don't seem to have washer seals included, but do have reduced diameter facing plates that will go through the tank hole. I suppose it doesn't need sealing because it is above the overflow. I think I will still apply Fernox everywhere though against splashing.

I've noticed that all timber kit people, sips or stick, exclude steel and scaffolding. As if they have no idea what will be needed. Thus the prices are falsely low.

Absolutely not. In skips and at waste handling centres it is collected separately for safe disposal, it's so nasty. In theory the manufacturers take it back and recycle it. In practice I think they avoid doing so.

As above. Photo? It seems you don't want to or maybe don't have access. But it would explain so much, and perhaps we'd see something significant that you don't. Otherwise, we're not making progress.

Venting into the attic doesn't seem nice unless it is draughty. Best to avoid roof penetrations when possible too. Can it come out under the eaves? OR can that upstream manhole be ventilated?

With "mean" * being an appropriate term. I've even got some washers in my Pb toolbox. But I think dismantling the valve will be trickier than exchanging it. You know, I might even buy a new float although the old one is OK. * sustainability driven No I hadn't thought of that. It may be badly diluted. Webs are certainly blocking my tubes.

Because bounce is noticeable and should show up in thorough surveys. The solution may not be too drastic.. select from... 1. Insert additional joists. 2. Screw timbers to the sides 3. Screw plywood to the sides 4. Build floor and/or ceiling in plywood. I did 4, where I had very limited depth to match an ancient skinny, bouncy floor. Plywood on top with lots of fixings satisfied bco and performed well. (it transforms the joists into T beams with very strong top flanges.)

Holyrood palace supposedly decided to turn the worn parade ground sandstone slabs over and....yes. the victorians had done that before. The washer is likely to be limed up. But I'm going to break the bank with a new washer....maybe even a new assembly.

Good news and can I have some reassurance, see last line. I found the problem and it is an easy solution. After clearing away soggy fibreglass and 2" of sawdust from the joists, and soggy tank jackets, I could see where it was dripping. I think it has been doing this for months but the sawdust has held it, expect occasionally it releases some. The header tank overflow is leaking at the junction and also loose. So I tried to seal it in situ but that didn't work. Needs taking apart. BUT then I thought why is the water so high. So then I saw that the float valve isn't closing and there is a drip every few seconds, even when forces shut. Simple: turn off the inlet valve. It wouldn't shut but eventually did. So it is sorted for now. I just have to decide whether to do it myself or get a plumber. It might just need a washer but changing the assembly is probably as easy. It is apprentice stuff, but sometimes things go wrong. BUT am I right in thinking that 8" of water in the tank is plenty for any changes in the heating system? For a few days.

It isn't a surveyor, but a Structural Engineer. Look for a local practice and phone them.

Phase 1. It isnt the heating tank. It isnt hot and it is relatively dry around. There are 3 tanks, up on a platform for height. The timber has been wet for a long time. Access is tricky so I will clear space and the wet fibreglass. I may strip off the insulating jackets for access and visibility...they are severely mouse anyway. I'm assuming that there are 2 tanks for cold water because of volume and access constraints. We have just realised that this leak was first apparent after 2 weeks away, with no control heating. Up there after lunch. Any suggestions welcome. If there's a tech problem I'll get z plumber but they need access too.

If you use small crushed stone gravel ( not pea gravel) then it will store water in the gaps and allow it to flow to a drain. Bash some holes in the concrete base to give water an outlet, unless it already has somewhere to go. The downside is temporary. This stone won't compress well or lay level. So i would put a layer of membrane on it, then sharp sand.

As you surmise. The tap water isn't too hot. I will know tomorrow but I'm anticipating hot water in the header tank. Today can I just turn down the oil boiler temperature?

Water is coming through the ceiling, just about twice a day. Egg cupful? Soggy ceiling of course. It's right below the water tank and the header tank. It has happened before, years ago, and I think the plumber tweaked something. I think I heard pipes rumbling as if the water is overheating. I will head into the attic tomorrow. What am I looking for? I'm imagining hot water is spurting out of the overflow and splashing out. 1. I check that the pipe points into the tank and the lid is on 2.maybe needs a plumber to adjust boiler or hot tank settings. Any diy advice on this?

That's my concern too. Will it displace if you hose it, brush it, ir with the wind? Will gaps fill with insects?

Fixing structural reinforcement is a skill, and most builders don't have it. So choose cost or bodge. Plus the SE assessment and design. Strip footings are easy and is prob just 1m deep.

Good points. Lots of lime ruins taps etc. What sort of cost is the setup? And running?

It seems a waste to fliter water used for flushing.

I meant several one-offs as opposed to needing hundreds and every day.

It's just an inline filter isn't it?

If a one-off thing needs confirmation, then simply email it someone cc yourself. Then you can add a comment. That can fit in with family/ mates too. Hey John , we made a start at last. Dug this hole yesterday, got it approved by bco and concreted today. Sort of thing.

Depends on the soffit. Is it stiff and can pan that distance? You will have to fix it at the wall side too. A batten on the wall.

I said that earlier, and that I don't generally favour expanding foam. In some discussions where the advice isn't wanted I duck out.

The cost is relativaly small and it removes some concerns so ok. My quick and dry method of checking floors for level is a golf ball. Roll in several directions (across and diagonals) and see if it deviates. The official check for smoothness is a 3m staightedge. Lay it down and also rock it, to see how big any gaps are. Do it all over. 3mm is the limit on commercial floors and sensible on domestic too. But the pir and screed will overcome any bigger gaps.