markocosic

I'll let my wife know 😉 Rough cut pine / spruce. Graded. Grooved. Primed. Painted. Never again. Use Ruukki roof or full-PV roof and pre-painted pre-machined thermowood boards intended for cladding and save your sanity. 😉

Always the (expletive deleted)ing plumbers. 🙂

Short circuiting then; rather than insufficient volume in the system? (whizzing through fancoils, or a rad that's wide open, rather than all of it going through emitter that equally take time to heat and equally drop the temperature)

FYI - yes you can see it at 4 mm / metre, no you don't hate it, and no it isn't enough to ensure that the gutters are dry after rain but it's probably enough to ensure that there's not enough standing water for mosquitos: Next up...getting the heating running!

Ouch. That doesn't feel like an open system sized for 45C at design condition. What are the emitters / how is there so little water volume in the system that the temperature can change that quickly even at minimum input?

Define "like mad" here? If it's open loop and sized for 45C at design condition there ought to be a decent volume there.

😞 It's been cut. It took seconds. It will take seconds again after you've repurchased all the missing gear. What kind of area is the property in, what is the value of the items stolen, and are they insurable?

Compact compared with plastic fittings when burying it in walls/hiding behind tiles etc Rigid so holds the fittings in place when you're screwing stuff into them End feed copper is fun and makes it look difficult?

You asked for / contracted for a cover fitted. You have a cover fitted. That's the sum total of your arrangement. Not a leg to stand on unless you're being explicit with what you ask for / the counterparty has sound commercial reason to do better. You used checkatrade. As you now know that's mostly for the disreputable trades who aren't busy by word of mouth; plus a couple of newbies just starting out. I'd buy the correct manhole and a sack of cement and watch a couple of Youtube if I were in your position. Chalk giving £1000 to the lads to buy oats for their horses up as school fees/learning the hard way how not to contract. If you do decide to silicone your existing mess; lift it, silicone the seat, then wrap the lid in cling film before placing it gently in position until your silicone sets. This way you'll have half a chance of removing it in future. Checkatrade are entirely complicit in the game if you read their T&Cs.

That looks like a 1/2" male tap > 10 mm soft copper connection (probably comes with a thread for a 3/8" tap connector, a flat faceish coupling, and a special adapter to take 10 mm copper pipe) for a bog. You also get them for 1/2">1'2", 1/2">3/4", or indeed dual outlet for a kitchen basin and dishwasher simultaneously. Usually start with a 1/2" elbow: https://online.depo-diy.lt/product/24002 Into a 10 mm compression or 3/8" thread: https://online.depo-diy.lt/product/25638 1/2" thread: https://online.depo-diy.lt/product/25639 3/4" thread: https://online.depo-diy.lt/product/25640 Or combo units for doing a dishwasher and a kitchen sink: https://online.depo-diy.lt/product/25630 https://www.senukai.lt/p/ventilis-schell-kampinis-skalbimo-masinai-3-8-colio-isorinis-sriegis-1-2-colio-isorinis-sriegis-10-mm-suverziamas/302d?mtd=search&pos=regular&src=searchnode It may be easier to use a shower fitting even for a basin etc: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322273391778 And a couple of hep2o adapters: https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-1-2-/5970f As that gives you more meat to screw to the wall. At the expense of more joints. If anybody wants a 1/2" to 3/8" BLACK valve I have one on my desk that's yours for a donation to the forum. Pocketed and Ryanaired for a friend only to find he wanted 1/2" to 1/2" doh! https://online.depo-diy.lt/product/360380

Copper out the wall is still naff to plaster around/look at if you're then going to a tap of some kind. How about wall plate elbows? https://wavin.com/en-sg/product/f0bb1231-b2fc-4949-8c8d-bd4a6615a933 Run hep to that. Screw in a plastic dummy. Plaster. Unscrew plastic dummy. Screw in either an ISO valve then the tap hose or a hose with a 1/2" male end; through a rosette to hide the plaster edges. As above is how they do this by default over here; looks neat to my eye and is easier to plaster over / around than flexible pipe at a jaunty angle too. If working in a 45 mm battened service cavity you take a lump of 25 mm decking board, use that to span two upright studs, and screw the wall plate elbow to that. The threaded bit then sticks into a hole in the plasterboard a convenient amount. If working in metal stud partitions you again whack a wooden noggin across two studs and screw your wall elbow to that; thickens of noggin to suit metal stud width. If chasing into a masonry wall...resin fix / glue is your friend whilst jaunty angled screws into wallplugs into dust sets. If doing a shower it can be easier/cheaper to buy one of those 2x 1/2" female-female-brass fittings-onna- wallplate thingamies and screw two 1/2" male to help adapters into it.

It's MLCP - pipe will be standard dimensions Why not use MCLP pipe and MLCP compression fittings instead though? The same pipe can take mlcp press fittings: https://online.depo-diy.lt/products/8445 Or mlcp compression fittings: https://online.depo-diy.lt/products/8446 Piece of pish to work with. Far more DIYer resilient than copper compressions IMO.

In heating session that house runs all rads open downstairs; TRVs as temperature limiters upstairs. Currently half of downstairs is not connected. (renovation) Not efficient for the heat pump, and there's a sensible limit on how low you can go, but when just a bit of the house is calling you can indeed serve just that. Type 22s sized for 45C at design condition. Direct. No volumiser. Work out the minimum heat pump output at say 12C and 35 degC flow. Work out your (partial) system output at 35 degC flow. Work out your (partial) system volume. Calculate the "run time" to raise the flow temp say 3degC. If that's more than 30 mins it's ok to run a zone that small. If shorter thats not ideal.

The circulation pump will throttle back if the compressor isn't running. (i.e. it circulates thr water to sense the flow/return temperatures) Example: (this is a 7 kW unit running with a fraction the complement of radiators in operation as only north end of house needs top-up heat) When summer arrives / you don't need any heat due to outside air temperature it stops entirely. When the compressor is running you need an absolute minimum of 9L/minute to take the heat away fast enough for it to be happy. This are your minimum "open zone" flowrate. The nominal / design flowrate is 20L/minute. When heating season actually begins in earnest it sits there running most of the time. evohome you can probably bin. Else use it as a glorified TRV for the "additional zone" bit leave them main part of the house under full control of the heat pump IMO.

10 mm/hr for the last 6 hours. Made it to the road without drowning. The shed electricity supply has turned into an unexpected fountain though. 😕 That wasn't on my potential risk register. Presumably a risk with anything in conduit at the bottom of a hill? 😮

All comes apart from the flush mechanism hole. Cold feed into iso tap at top of cistern. Hose from there to gubbins inside cistern. All gubbins come apart from flush plate hole with sufficient cajoling.

How often do you paint your roof timbers? Never. They're dry under the tiles. Ditto a timber stud wall with cladding that isn't timber. Sheds with a timber finish do need painting and can't be heated without composting the roof if that's underneath the felt. There's a difference between these and something built more like a house though.

You don't need 32A ring mains in this day and age. Derate rings to 20A Oe even 10A radials and wire the things in 1.5 mm2 given how little load is expected indoors these days?

Is that the inside of the pipe or is it the inside of the boiler/gunk from constant topping up and non oxygen tight pipework not buried inside a screed etc? Pipe looks like it cracks/crazed as you peel it open but I don't see bits of the pipe breaking away there but rather collected muck braking away from the pipe.

*Cold* water on a *sticky* summer day of the sort where cooling is definitely wanted: This was bad enough to drip enough to need fixing. Base level fix is 9 or 13 mm armaflex "sealed" by wrapping with insulation tape. I didn't have much to do so used self amalgamating tape around threaded joints and wrapped the straight bits of pipe in with insulating tape (to keep moisture away from copper that can pinhole from outside on chilled water systems in some scenarios) then the armaflex to keep outside surface above dew point and wrap that with insulating tape as the air barrier/because I bought knock-off stuff that wasn't self adhesive and it was good around 101 bends. Thee slab... would probably soak up and safely redistribute any condensation IMO. It's the rest of your pipe runs that want to be insulated such that you don't get condensation under the lagging from joints etc which then drips.

That's garden shed size... I would timber frame something that small to avoid the loss of space whilst retaining some insulation. You can still use render board on the outside and render it for visuals/fire. You can still put tiles on the roof. 45*95 studs would work at that size. So walls 15 mm plasterboard, air barrier/vapour retarder, 95 mm wood with mineral wool insulation between, roofing membrane to shed water, 25 mm roofing battens to create a drainage plane, say 25 mm render board and render and allowance for wobbles. Gives 160 mm total for similar insulation value (95 mm of insulation) 145*95 studs would be toasty. Or probably better stick with 95*45 studs but put a 50 mm layer of foil backed and seam taped PIR/PUR on the inside. Ridge beam and cathedral roof to give impression of space? Windows?

AC unit drain. This needs a trap that doesn't dry out as it only generates condensate seasonally. Inaccessible dry traps are a no no to me. One piece of muck in those and they don't seal. Better / easier to drop it into a sink or a bath that's regularly used. In this case the bath is closer but I can't find one of these fittings locally: https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/bath-traps-fillers-and-wasteflow/wf21-sp-wasteflow-1923mm-pipe-connection https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/bath-traps-fillers-and-wasteflow/wf21-wasteflow-112-waste (with extra spigot on the free-to-air side of the bath trap rather than the stinky side) Then again nothing to stop me from getting the bath in and the main waste in now (the priority) then making good the overflow by pocketing that magic fitting when next in the UK. Who wants the other 6... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202656644106 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143587085577 Or the rest of the box... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185470761199

Waaah; those things look immense! 😮

Thanks!

Pile of poo always an option - US version of the puraflow? (sewage treatment mound) https://www.epa.gov/septic/types-septic-systems https://groundstone.ca/2018/06/mound-septic-systems/