markocosic

Back of the render; edges of render?

Assuming continuous heating in winter; no cooling in summer? Enough air leakage condensed water can eventually run back towards the wood? Doesn't need much ventilation/drainage layer to avoid issues.

Hope they're airtight internally...

If available I'd do it for vehicle charging and future PV / battery reasons. Most EVs have 16A / 3.6 kW chargers. Two or three of them. If two, then max charge rate is 7.2 kW. If three, then they only use two when on single phase (to avoid melting cables), but can use three when on three phase (to charge at 11 kW) Very few can do 22 kW charge; but two 11 kW vehicles can easily. Beware that smart meters may take longer to source when on 3ph in the UK.

Sorry, no clue. An AIR barrier won't hurt you. A VAPOUR barrier will prevent moisture in the caberdeck drying to the outside. Imagine wearing a bin bag on a run. The sweaty sticky mess inside the bag is your caberdeck if you use a vapour barrier. Now wear goretex etc. The vapour goes through but the wind doesn't. This is what you want. Glued caberdeck is enough. The areas to concentrate on are the holes and the edges. No point wearing a coat if the wind is howling through it.

Sadly on Sundays it's now the cars coming into the city from the provinces to shop at the fancy shops on the high street that aren't in the surrounding towns and villages.

Vapour barrier not required there. Glue all the caberdeck joints. Plenty good enough as an air barrier. Your difficult area is the caberdeck<>wall joint. That wants to be airtight. Foam won't cut it. You'll want an airtightness tape there.

https://www.fastbuildsupplies.co.uk/53650-150mm-vertical-extension-piece

This lands is in "South Cambs" legally for council tax / planning but functionally it's in "Cambridge City" My place is down the road from here. I've had dozens of lodgers over the years. Only two have had cars. None have been nice cars. Many have had nice bikes. Often worth more than the average car. The folks with nice cars are the working class folks with families; and they'll not be living here; they'll be living in Cambourne etc and commuting. Old money has a beat up old Volvo / Merc estate. The only difference between these and no money is how much work the car needs for the MOT and how expensve the dog inside it is. I have a car; for visiting family in Rugby/Corby or for when work demands a bunch of stuff be moved. It otherwise sits there rusting on the driveway. Pushbike for anything/everything in Cambridge; hop on the train to London or Stansted for everything else. We also once had an office in Orchard Park. (Future Business Centre) The only people who park in Orchard Park are the "park and ride" crowd. (see: Cambourne) They'll come thumping in off the A14, abandon car in Orchard Park to the infuriation of the half dozen people living there who actually have cars; then catch the bus into the city or dig the Brompton out the boot. Many are BMWs, Teslas, etc (knobbers from the provinces - you karens and tesco store managers etc) parking on the pavements) 30 spaces is absolutely ok here. The infrastructure not to need cars exists. They should be underground though because car parks are fugly. Planners are right but wrong to allow it. Bury the cars underground. And put in bloody nice secure bicycle storage underground whilst your'e at it; so that you're not dragging £10k bikes up into the flats.

Family sized estate car with towbar, roof bars, and rented trailers IMO. Pay the delivery on bulk materials by truck Rent a trailer for the medium stuff that you want the option to load slowly "I want THIS board and THAT board and NOT THAT board etc" Keep a sheet of 22 mm OSB and the roof bars for "fudge, I need another sheet of plasterboard" or a giant roll of pipe / cable etc 3 metre long oddments (pipe, curtain pole, etc) go straight in the car along with "white goods" sized things (cylinders, heat pumps, air conditioners, bathtubs etc) If it's boxed / bagged and liftable goes in the car If it's shovellable and dry then stuff t that can also go in the car if you're not in the slightest bit precious about it? 1.6 TDCI Focus Estate for us (the 90 bhp version) with a 2cm lift kit on it. Costs £0.20 to buy. Does 1000 km on a tank of diesel whilst running around. Takes 3m pipes inside it with ease. Open the tailgate and you have a cleanish seat with a cover to have a cuppa in the rain. Not banned from the tip like vans. Not subject to speed limits like vans. Doesn't get broken into every 5 minutes. Doesn't whinge too much when I rent my favourite 6 metre twin axle trailer form the place next to the sawmill. Needs to be dry day with bit of a run up to get that up the grass hill though! If the site is a wet mess a van will be worthless to you IMO (gets stuck) - you'll get further in small front wheel drive car with decent ground clearance; small 4x4 car; or a real 4x4.

In hindsight, what were the warning signs? Irish travellers? Some other flavour of dishonest, tax dodging, uninsured oiks with not a contract or fixed address in sight? If you don't have a negotiating position it's always a risk hiring petty criminals Arriving for 10 rather than 8? That's fine I'm ok with you stopping by until 7. Don't mind if you prefer starting at 10 to miss the traffic either. Need to leave after 2 hours work? That's fine. I'll owe you £150 of the £600; less whatever extra it's going to cost me to hire an adult to finish the job at short notice. We can settle up once the hours have been done though and you might even owe me. Letting them finish the job then reneging on the renegotiated deal is karma though! Worth a nice letter to HMRC, the work and pensions folks, and the child support allowance folks as their reward perhaps? 🙂

There are usually flue length restrictions on those policies. And they often don't honour their contracts anyway. https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/5956167/british-gas-homecare-mis-information-ongoing-problem - get a fresh EPC now - hot water cylinder or a little heat pump got water cylinder (tank with a heat pump on top) for better efficiency - oil filled radiators (the portable things with wheels) or a mini split AC for better efficiency (and upsell value) Through wall AC units exist if there's no balcony to make use of.

The trv might actually work too. (yhey sense air temperature, so want to be higher in the room than they are usually installed)

Good for you! IKEA basic for me the first time. Bashed up Bora the second time (still to be installed - new glass in these €300 BTW so if you see a smashed one nab it) Wanting to try the hob in a shop for the third one. 🙂 (different places; not unreliable units replaced) Don't assume they're all the same is my suggestion.

That cover is worthless. If cash is tight get a credit card. Use it to pay for repairs in the event that they are required. Pay it back in installments or with a personal loan etc. it will be cheaper than the insurance and involves a whole load less paperwork aggro. Servicing (check nothing has fallen off, check flue gas emissions, check water quality) every other year is plenty for a domestic installation IMO. They don't suddenly dissolve overnight and a decent tech will flag "deteriorated but not needing attention yet" in addition to "need fixing now" etc. Probably once every five years if it's a decent installation to begin with. Perhaps even plan to cap the gas and swap to a heat pump one day. (e.g. adding induction hob when renovating kitchen) This eliminates the pipe and a chunk of carbon emissions at the same time. 🙂

Not entirely true FYI. Many induction hobs revert to "pulsed" power at the lower outputs. It is often pot vs ring size sensitive. If you try to cook at a low output with a thin pan, it's like waving a thin pan through a gas flame for 6 seconds off / 3 seconds on, and you won't have an even heat. The pans with substance to them will smooth this. So will nicer hobs.

Doh. Forgot about the overflow!

That shouldn't lift and should take floor adhesive. Good shout. (I had "tanking" in mind as you'd do for tiles that's soft as heck)

It would bring a new meaning to "sweeping the dirt under the carpet" too lol

Something like these. Either frame and tank a 28 mm deep "bucket" to catch the slush (and tuck a UFH mat under it if needs be) or sink an actual tray through the OSB subfloor onto a framed support: https://www.senukai.lt/c/santechnika-ir-sildymas/nuoteku-surinkimo-ir-drenazo-sistemos/drenazo-sistemos/drenaziniu-lataku-sistema/batu-valymo-groteles-voneles/bv2

Reading around more I'm overthinking this. By the time the OSB is wet enough to worry the wood above it will be plenty swollen and discoloured. Lay it, and it, hit it with polyurethane, try not to abuse it. A dry winter heating season will do more harm (opening up gaps etc) than the odd bit of water that does make it down the gaps and into the pine boards. To actually soak the OSB would need a material leak over a material amount of time. Do set in an entry mat though. Perhaps even pop a heating mat under it to dry it.

Indoors; but the outdoors comes in when people come in. (impossible to remove all snow from shoes; design didn't allow for a porch/utility) OSB (not OSB3) already down and not straightforward to change. Should have been OSB3 but was lost in translation.

How can I waterproof an OSB sheet whilst making it possible to glue down a floor over it? I have been asked to do something silly by SWMBO - glue down wood floor over OSB subfloor - in a bathroom, kitchen, and at the entrance to the house. We have done this before with engineered wood over chipboard on the 1st floor (UK, but main entrance on ground floor was tile) and engineered wood over a screed (Baltics, but the main entrance is 4 flights of stairs to leave the worst of the water and snow on) and gotten away with it. I have now been asked to do this with solid wood (28 mm x 120 mm pine) in a country house. This is going to move more - there will be gaps at times - and there will be more rain and snow. I'm not worried about the solid wood. I am a little worried about the OSB if water seeps through the joints. What can I do to "waterproof" the OSB so that any water is sucked up by the solid pine sponge and dried to the house from there; rather than soaking into the OSB sponge and turning it into wet weetabix? Spread a think layer of MS polymer floor adhesive and let that kick before spreading the main layer for the floor perhaps? The entrance and bathroom are the risk areas. I am allowed a permanently "cut in" entry mat in a tanked area (remove the pine and make a framed "pit" for a mat to sit in with just the OSB as the base) as a concession to the worst of it. Should I be using MS Polymer here; or would a urethane the ties the OSB and pine together mire rigidly and forces the assembly to move as one be more appropriate? What would you use as a primer there?

Can softener discharge be elevated? (Run at ceiling level) It is pressurised, no?

Practically: sounds fine! Worst case of the branch is clogged it'll only make a minor mess. Parents place in wales also never had a space heat discharge for 25 years. (empty fitting into airing cupboard) Spotted when draining down for the replacement boiler!