markocosic

In countries that have winters you won't get a sup thick enough to meet building regulations. 400 mm walls and 600 mm roofs not practical. Build with smaller panels then add insulation externally to also keep the outer OSB layer toasty warm and dry.

Having tried taped OSB myself I would say no. It's too rough and ready to take tape nicely and with a sip if you get any movement (usually at ridge beam) it turns into soggy Weetabix. Better to go belt and braces with membrane.

Sweden does panel builds indoors. Eastern Europe does thin bed mortar. Why? Seasons. Winter is cold. This is good. You can drive over the building site without sinking. There are no mosquitos trying to eat you. This is bad. You can't use thick bed mortar. Thin bed mortar (actual mortar) can work down to 2C and doesn't take a lifetime to cure. Thin bed mortar (PU foam) can build in down to -5C. They're not fussed on houses having decorative brick rainscreens. Render or cladding over "structural" (rough) brickwork is the norm. Or with wooden panel construction you can drive the flatbed with palfinger over the site where you laid foundations in autumn, throw up the panels whilst it is snowing rather than raining so everything stays nice and dry, and get weather tight before spring comes and the snowmelt turns the whole site into a bog. Looks easy enough if your founds are level. No cavity wall ties (all additional insulation is external after the fact) and the PU foams will likely be stickier in tension than mortar.

Bringing this back to life with notes to self: I think @HerbJ your approach makes sense. If one *really* wants to do afterthought UFH on an OSB floor without buildup then one could router in grooves for aluminium spreaders: https://www.santechnikos-centras.lt/prekiu-katalogas/vidaus-vamzdynai-ir-jungtys/grindinio-sildymo-vamzdziai-ir-jungtys/sauso-tipo-grindinis-sildymas It effectively becomes this setup; albeit with me hoping that 22 mm OSB instead of the planks with ~5 mm left behind plus engineered wooden floor planks on top will provide enough meat on 600 mm centres: 200 @ €682 is 24 m2 on 120 mm centres (plus €80 in pipe for 22 litres of system volume) https://www.santechnikos-centras.lt/aliuminio-plokste-su-vienu-grioveliu-mepafloor-16-17-mm-120-1000-040-mm 200 @ €736 is 30 m2 on 150 mm centres (plus €80 in pipe for 22 litres of system volume) https://www.santechnikos-centras.lt/aliuminio-plokste-su-vienu-grioveliu-mepafloor-16-17-mm-150-1000-040-mm 200 @ €1382 is 78 m2 on 195 mm centres (plus €160 in pipe for 44 litres of system volume) https://www.santechnikos-centras.lt/aliuminio-plokste-su-dvejais-grioveliais-mepafloor-16-17-mm-390-1000-040-mm Pipe patterns wise I'd be forced to do meander (can only really run pipe across joists not along them, a but would aim to put the hottest bits by the largest windows https://www.multipipe.co.uk/ufh-patterns

I have a similar unit. It isn't being controlled in the slightest bit correctly if the heating is on a time clock. Did you have somebody look in January and resolve? If not I'll dig out the manuals; but they only really cover the unit and the "standard" installation details - the issues you're having are with the non standard details hung off the end of the heat pump.

It's not particularly complicated (no more so than UFH), gives greater freedom over floor finishes, can be more responsive than UFH where required, is materially better at cooling (more than just knocking the edge off; better distribution of coolth for comfort purposes), and similarly zero maintenance.

I would: - Monobloc ashp outside (something like a 5 kw vaillant unit) - Ufh downstairs (direct fed from diverter valve) - Heated/cooled ceilings upstairs and downstairs (chilled by ashp in summer; heated slightly in winter; changeover can be a manual valve moved seasonally to disable the ufh - Regular hot water cylinder (direct fed from diverter valve) separate from the mvhr above it - Wastewater heat recovery (1/3 or more off your shower cost and extends runtime of the cylinder of a given size)

Push the pipe into the fitting whilst pushing in the blue ring then pull the pipe out.

They're better now. They've stopped saying it's impossible now that they've purchased calculators and worked out the flowrates. Cookie cutter design will be for 50C at design temperature. "Making good" may be the deal-breaker for Mrs HD. Octopus et al don't include that in scope. If I can sort you meters to ensure that it's OpenEnergyMonitored just shout. Octopus do install these for some projects of their own accord but don't share the data publicly. It'll be a fun challenge for them doing a house that isn't pants for a change. It's the low heat loss ones they seem to be struggling with at the minute for want of paying enough for heat pumps that work well at low output. :-) All the toys (that worked) acn come with you. ;-)

I'm surprised you're not on their blacklist! 😉 (I was placed in a "do not call" lost for daring to challenge their "engineer" for running his mouth about heat pumps not working with microbore) I look forward to seeing what they propose and how they go about it. Probably their 8 kW Daikin. (4/6/8 identical bar software) Will they touch a sunamp or will they insist on a cylinder? So many questions.

Peppercorn rent for a specified period? Land is yours. No ifs buts or maybes. But for the next 25? (life of fence?) years the neighbour can rent it for £1. Agreement to include description of official boundary with respect to current fence. That way he maintains the fence; you have no issues when selling the place etc.

Cityfibre entered the land or cityfibre appointed contractors entered the land? I don't think you can bank on automatic leverage in the form of a criminal trespass stick to wield against cityfibre directly. If it is necessary to enter your site to span the cable (vs walking around it) I'd have probably cracked on with the duct for openreach, noting that some trash appeared to be lying on the ground of your property following the rerouting works, locked the fence, refixed the appropriate notices prohibiting entry to a live site for the duration of the works, and cracked on with the build. Onus on them to prove beyond reasonable doubt who downed the fibre. Plausible ambiguity what with OpenReach works ongoing. Not possible for there to have been any legal fibre present as the site has been fenced off since the year dot. Onus on them to explain how said fibre was strung without resort to criminal trespass. Jog on.

Impatient? Drill new holes in the bracket. Buy 80 mm screws and brown wall plugs. Drill deep holes in the wall. Push two brown wall plugs deep into each hole using a screw. Use say three screws per bracket. (two at the top and one at the bottom) That should get you into the brick not the plaster. If you're an animal you hols the bracket in position then drill the bracket and wall at the same time with a 6.5 mm SDS then bash the wall plug through the bracket and into the wall without removing the bracket. (the 6.5 mm SDS bit in crumbly brick should give you a tight fitting "just about possible to bash it in using a screw as a drift" wall plug. Some experimentation might be needed depending on brand. Up the screws to 100 mm if you've got solid walls and thick plaster rather than cavity walls. You can't fix into plaster. That's what's probably happened. Maybe yoy hit a mortar line. Either way just whack a hole through the bracket where the wall wants it to be rather than where the bracket wants it to be and you're good. Fill the old hole with some non structural whatever. Or resin in some threaded rod with a nut on the end. Leave the nut loose; hang the radiator relying on the screws; then nip behind with a spanner to finish tighten later because it's cold just now.

That's on the refrigerant circuit. Warranty item / something that you can't touch as a consumer. Perhaps it's a mis-translation and there is also a strainer on the water circuit that you can clean. Doubtful but we can be hopeful!

Precooling also works in properties that have better thermal properties than a cheap rent. Not applicable in California. Might as well be sat in a greenhouse.

FWIW Appliances Direct was probably the cause of the reworking of the "warranty for details" letter by Saturn. They got...a slap on the wrist for selling F-Gas appliances to end users using a "yes I will get it installed by a pro" checkbox. https://www.acrjournal.uk/news/appliance-direct-holding-company-prosecuted-for-breaching-f-gas-regula/

No, it's because it's already cheaper than gas. 🙂 That's why it was excluded from RHI in the first place. 😉 In the EU they're already the most popular heat pumps; hence the "UK lagging behind figures" as UK doesn't count them where others do. And others also sell them in B&Q But ensure that you can't buy less than 9kg of gas for them - a quantity where it's uneconomic to DIY add 20g/metre of line set or to refill leaked out systems. Cheaper to pay somebody else.

LOL @ people... Some even think it's a good idea to cook air freshener on top of wood burners: https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-northern-ireland-50380248 Still won't take out the house though. You need a mains gas connection to really do that reliably.

You're making this far too complicated. Do NOTHING. Just sell the things. Stop imposing EXTRA safety measures on things that are useful UNTIL they are imposed on things that are not. If you're not capable of flaring a copper pipe you're not competent to be installing these. It's an utter piece of pish if you have a vaguely decent cutting/flaring too. Don't try it using nasty old brake pipe flaring sets from grandad's garage though. That'll scratch the flare to buggery. If you're genuinely scared about people blowing themselves up... - Ban gas hobs - Ban gas ovens - Ban domestic gas connections - Ban portable calor gas heaters - Ban people putting ***15kg*** propane cylinders indoors - Ban camping gas - Ban cans of WD40 - Ban bloody air fresheners https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-essex-41179132 https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-wales-56337761 https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-leeds-50810196 Or just let the idiots blow themselves and their families to bits. That will also reduce carbon emissions. (though sadly they all survive just fine; albeit slightly more awake than before they lit the spliff) But don't discriminate against useful things by forcing them to be safer than useless things or more environmentally damaging things. If you're objecting to propane on the ground of safety...then start with gas safety in general and work your way right down to minisplits. They. Are. Not. A. Priority. Unless you're a supporter of DuPont/Chemours wanting to sell nasty gases or Putin & Xi. 😉

They're unions. The regs on (small, low risk, domestic) fixed installations are sweet fanny adams to do about the environment and everything to do with preventing others from intruding on their cushty little industry. DuPont/Chemours plus the unions boys and girls against progress. They're also fighting to prevent R290 units the same way that they fought to keep fridges using HFCs. (fortunately they're all HCs ave have been for years thanks to Greenpeace proving the performance and the safety case back in the late 80s/early 90s) Why 150 gram charge limits? Because they thought it would be impossible to make anything except a fridge work with 150 grams. Safety case and leak rates / room ventilation rates suggest more like 1 kg is a safe charge that's vanishingly unlikely to manage to create an explosive atmosphere indoors given how units leak. (pinholes rather than explosive leaks - assuming that they're factory pressure tested to well in excess of operating pressure first you'd be hard pressed to dump the charge fast enough to create an explosive environment) We'll see fewer damages from these systems than we do gas boilers/cookers or indeed even air fresheners ans smokers in cars. Every year somebody blows the bloody doors off trying to hide their fragrant tobacco. 😂

Exactly. Not illegal to sell to somebody who doesn't hold an fgas ticket. 😉 You won't. Propane is the low GWP / non toxic option. It's explosive in the right mixture though. (if you try hard enough - though the EU is sensibly about to up the limits from 150 grams to 900 grams based on experience / calcs) F-Gases (the lot of them) are non toxic / not explosive. They're ALL high GWP though. (in one way or another - either directly or through intermediate breakdown products) I can't get too excited about blowing people up whilst we're still piping methane into houses and relying on humans not to leave the valve open without the flame being lit. I can't get too excited about dropping half a kilo of R32 by accident whilst you can still buy a plane ticket to Magaluf on purpose either. The potential benefits outweigh the risks. What you DON'T do is allow A N Other to buy the gas itself. If you fudge up you need to call a pro to check it all. No constantly topping up leaking splits. Not that the so called pros are any better. You can't get thicker than a kwik fit fitter yet they're still allowed to hose R134a into shagged old cars without so much as a sniff test. A reality. https://www.gradientcomfort.com/ You take a performance hit and a cost hit though.

You need evidence for gases. You don't need evidence for equipment though. You need a statement from the end customer regarding who they intend to use to install it. That's not evidence. 😉 Potentially. Do you think they require *evidence* of who is installing the equipment (above and beyond the regulations) or a *statement* from the customer though (which is all the regulations require; subject to unforeseen changes; not independently verifiable etc) The regs don't prohibit the same of this kit. They just ask the end user to write you a letter. Which you're not obligated to check and not can you practically enforce before shipping. The illegal part was and still remains installing fgas splits without the fgas ticket. Which says nothing of your suitability for installing such equipment. (understanding of vacuum levels/times, pressure tests, flare making/brazing, leak checking etc) Hence being able to buy the same thing in B&Q overseas. I'm not instructing I've to change their mind after writing the letter with an installer on it but one can see how the kit can still be purchased. "Medicine for goat" as Tom Hanks would say.

It's not against the law to trade in FGas products. Illegal to install them without a one-off noddy ticket to say that you understand they can be flammable/explosive/harmful if released. Not illegal to sell or to buy them though. I suspect the support hassles of dealing with an uptick in DIY installations myself. It'll be interesting to see if that similarly affects the propane units that are slightly more difficult to fit at the moment. (no readily available low cost leak checking tools able to detect trace leaks)

This. The unit in the cabin mounted in the hall near the middle of the building; centred on an 8*6m space with cathedral ceiling and open mezzanine above; with another 4*6m of ceilinged rooms behind it; is not objectionable. The unit in a Cambridge dining room with ultra low ceilings is objectionable in the dining room when trying to heat the whole house. In a workshop type space you wouldn't give a monkeys if it were far away. I am tempted to move the Cambridge unit to granddad's house next year and put it...under his desk...blowing on his feet...and attempting to heat the main living space this way with a 2kW hotspot where his feet without blood circulation spend most of their time. I think it would actually be comfortable in addition to muffling the sound. If the workshop had a similar workbench area I could be tempted to put it under there for much the same reason; and hope that you end up with a warmer stripe of floor where the air crosses it. Ads a curtain and it would make a cracking paint curing cupboard too!

Vacuum pump and gauges/hoses £100 Cutter and eccentric flaring tool £50 F-Gas leak detector £60 Nylog blue £20 Lineset £100 Feet or wall mount £50 Call it £400 The rest should be pretty standard DIY fare