ProDave

Which probably explains why I still only think a mobile phone is something to talk to people on, or if you really really insist I just might peck away at a silly minute keyboard to send a text message, but only if I don't have an email addrerss to send a message using a proper full sized keyboard on the computer. We only get 2G here, so as you say data is a non starter. SWMBO does use her phone to "do" face book, but only because it is connected to the house wi fi and can use our broadband connection via the landline.

That only has an omni directional outside aerial. If you have a weak signal (which lets face it is why you are using one of these) you really want the version with the yagi aerial.

I know it's out of date, but sitefinder tells me we only have a 2G 900Mhz phone mast withing range, so I just bought the 900Mhz version of the repeater. I only paid £25 for mine but I haven't seen it that cheap since. Yes the PSU failed, usual Chinese rubbish, but I had a spare and it's working again.

Thanks. So I will allow for a vent strip and a few mm for the thin bit of the filler strip.

Yes if you opt for the blown in insulation you have to drill a hole in each segment of wall and the plug gets put back and sealed with air tightness tape. What thickness is the OSB layer of a SIP panel? there would be a fair weight with 160mm of wood fibre and the render, would that really hold well enough just into OSB? I am much more comfortable knowing mine is screwed into the timber frame. Also I have ended up with two different makes of the plastic caps that spread the load. One of them takes a fair bit of grunt to pull the cap flush into the wood fibre board, I would be concerned that you may strip the fixing into the OSB before the cap has pulled in flush. I would want the SIP panel manufacturer to agree in writing that this is okay before comitting yourself to it.

So I am guessing the "filler piece" is not individual bits just to fill the "bumps" but a continuos strip? So what is the typical thickness of the "thin" bit of it? So it looks like I will need to allow for a ventilator strip and then this filler piece?

I'm still busy fitting my wood fibre board cladding and have come to the point I need to finalise the eaves detail of our sun room, even though it will be some time before the roofing material actually goes on. The sun room is a single storey room with a low pitched roof clad in box profile steel sheets. I haven't even begun to look and which one etc. What I need to work out just now is how the eaves detail works with box profile rofing as I have never used this berfore. With a tiled roof, I set the fascia board height so that it has a ventilator strip on top of it and it set to the correct height so that the bottom tile rests on that ventilator strip. So do I do the same with box profile rofing? i.e use the same sort of ventilator strip and set it at a height where fascia plus ventilator stip just touches the underside of the roof sheets? OR to I not fit a ventilator strip at all and set the fascia so the wood of the fascia board touches the underside of the box profile sheeting? That would only leave the "bumps" in the roofing sheet to provide ventilation. And also, whichever option I choose, how do you fill in the "bumps" to stop birds and rodents going up under the roof sheets? I presume you buy a filler piece, is that solid, or perforated for ventilation?

This thread was split from a discussion about workshop lighting that went off topic: Can't help with the lighting, but try one of the cheap Chinese mobile phone repeaters from ebay.

Hi and welcome to the new forum. Keep us posted with your progress and get busy asking questions.

But on that logic, should you have not done the whole sequence including the sums not shown, 4+7, 5+8, 6+9, and 7+10 then finally adding the total to the 8+11 sum?

Roadside wheelie bins in laybys are handy as well. I know all the ones that don't have a bracket to stop you opening the lid by more than 3" It's handy having more than one vehicle if taking a lot of stuff to the tip, we have 3 between us that I can use.

Give me a clue as I am obviously over thiking it.

Can someone post some reasoning as I can't make sense of it. All I see is incorrect sums so you are asking me to guess the answer of the last incorrect sum? I started thinking ah, they must be adding up in base 6, but you can't have more than a number 5 then can you so that only works for the first 2.

I'm stockpiling cardboard at the moment. All my wood fibre board came covered in cardboard (and plastic) so I have a lot of very large sheets or cardboard. It's all waiting for when we have the walls and ceilings skimmed to cover the floor with. THEN comes the big bonfire.

I see the passive cat flap thread being repeated. Get a dog instead, they only go out when you say so.

Now there is a devious plan. I would never have thought about that one. Most of my waste currently is plastic wrappng. Why does everyrthing have to come wrapped in several layers of plastic?

I don't like councils imposing "limits" on what you can dispose of. Do they think if you can't dispose of it responsibly that it will simply cease to exist? Then they wonder where all the fly tipped stuff comes from that costs them MORE to deal with. Reminds me of my BIL who went to the tip in his Landrover. By the garden waste bin there was a sign saying "one vehicle, one bag" They tried to stop him when he dragged a 1 ton builders bag full of garden waste out of the back of the Landrover, until he pointed out that he only had one vehicle and only one bag of rubbish.

Since you are making a new opening in a structural wall, building control will have to be involved. There is a window and door in the "extension" so that's ventilation taken care of. Fireproofing the wall to the garage is easy, 2 layers of plasterboard each side with the joints staggered (and filled)

+101 to that. The thing is, I heve never before this seen any specific guidance on drilling the bottom chord of an attic truss. All the normal electricians on site guides etc make no mention of a truss being any different. I suspect I and countless other electricians have just treated them as an ordinary "joist" and lacking any proper guidance have drilled them within the limits for a "joist" which we now know is not the case. P.S for ordinary joists you must only drill them in an area between 0.25 and 0.4 of the span, only along the centreline of the joist and no more than 0.25 times the depth of the joist.

My only input is you are dividing the garage. So there will still be a "garage" even if it's only big enough to park a moped. So it will still requre a fireproof wall between what is left of the garage and the "extension" Watch for making a "plasterboard tent" Normally the walls of a garage are well ventilated with air bricks, and if you are not careful you can end up with cold air getting in front of the insulation virtually negating it's effectivenes.

I don't think anyone has said this is "okay" as in general guidance. Only that in THIS case they have "got away" with it because they were over sized. P.S thanks for that link relating specifically to attic trusses. I have never seen that before and that will now ovveride the normal 0.25 to o.4 span rules.

Two comments: Those are the shallowest strip foundations I have ever seen anywhere. Here we were down to between 1 and 1.6 metres below original ground before we hit the firm sandy clay, and where I used to live in Oxfordshire, the standard was a very minimum of 1 metre deep. Secondly, whenever I have seen ICF pours (mostly on Grand designs) they pour a whole floor worth of blocks on one go, then wonder why they get bursts. Pouring just a few at a time seems a better idea.

Sounds to me like you will need 3 seperate meters, and quite possibly 3 seperate FIT accounts, unless your chosen supplier can deal with one account and 3 readings.

Whoever does come back, make sure they know what the correct rules are regarding drilling joists, but to make the No 1 objective to route cables and pipes to avoid drilling the joists if at all possible.

No I don't mean the nail plates. Say you have a joist that spans the whole width of the house and is sized to do so. It's easy to work out the 0.25 - 0.4 span drilling zones. Then you stick an intermediate support wall under the joist at say 1/3 along its length. Do the drilling zones remain the same, or do you now treat it as two seperate joists each with their own drilling zones?