ProDave

Happy with the shower flow. Don't want the ladies emptying the tank too quickly

Tell them it serves the new house. You might want to do at least part of phase 2, connecting the sewer pipe to the new plot at the same time.

So here is what I have done. I tried setting the PRV so that the dynamic pressure with the bath taps on full, was 3 bar. That resulted in the static pressure rising to 3.8 bar with the taps all off. So I have compromised and set the static pressure to 3.5 bar and that gives a dynamic pressure of 2.6 bar with the bath taps on. This has given a noticable improvement to the bath fill speed but strangely made hardly any difference to the shower flow which is still at 14 litres per minute. The shower flow is measured with the sceintific method of timing how long the shower takes to fill a bucket of known capacity.

I am skeptical. First off, your TV and your broadband will not provide you with a fibre connection. So what advantage speed wise will a fibre from your comms room to your tv provide? Just what are you going to stream, from where to what, that a good cat6 cable won't support? by all means install a conduit through which you can pull some future system cabling, but I am not convinced this will give any practical benefit. Concentrate more on real things like cabing for surround sound speakers etc.

So you are saying adjust the static pressure to 3.5 bar to get the dynamic pressure up to 2.5 bar. Won't that have implications for the warranty? Question still remains, if it should drop by 0.5 bar at 14L / min but is actually dropping by 1 bar isn't it "faulty"?

I am sure there is no crap in the strainer. Before the tank was fitted I had all the hot and cold pipes plumbed, and a temporary link, done with compression fittings from cold feed in, to hot and balanced cold out. That was well flushed through to get all the flux residue and other crap out of the system. When the tank arrived I simply removed the temporary link pipe, and connected the cold in to the PRV in with compression fittings, so no chance of crap getting in. I am not bothered about the flow rate particularly, it's just when I checked and saw the pressure drop so much, I thought that can't be right. We had pretty much the same setup at the last house so same PRV and I recall the baths filled a lot quicker, and one of those was plumbed in 15mm which didn't seem to restrict it much. @PeterW you talk about "decrease the restrictor by 0.45 bar" What is this resrictor you talk of? This is a pressure regulating valve that works by feedback and should (within limits) maintain a fixed pressure at the output. Are you saying as well as the pressure adjustment there is a restrictor?

So is mine faulty? should I be asking for a replacement?

Just moved the pressure gauge. Mains pressure is 6.5 bar and you can't even see the pointer move at all when you run a bath or shower, so mains pressure or flow is not the problem.

So not long back I fitted the Telford 300L heat pump col indirect HW tank. It comes with a pressure reducing valve. There is a cold water tap off point so the hot and the cold taps all get the same pressure regulated feed. Worth pointing out our mains pressure is in excess of 6 bar and has a fantastic flow rate. I have had a nagging doubt since installing it that the flow rates are not brilliant. Showers are okay at about 14L per minute, not fantastic but adequate. It's the bath flow that may prove an issue as that is not a lot higher. That may be the fault of the floor standing bath filler that cam with long inbuilt 1/2" flexis so that is bound to limit flow a bit. But now cut to the chase and get to the point of the thread. Today I borrowed one of the pressure gauges from one of the UFH manifolds and hooked it up to a pressure regulated cold water feed. Sure enough, it measures a static pressure of 3 bar as it is set to. But turn on say a shower (remember 14L per minute) and the pressure gauge drops to 2 bar. To me, it seems like the PRV is doing a poor job. With our high mains pressure and flow, that will not be the reason for the drop. It would appear that at 14L per minute the PRV can only maintain 2 bar. This is measured right at the PRV so it is not pipework causing the presure drop, and even if I just run a hot tap, so no flow through the cold feed where the gauge is, the pressure still drops. Before I discuss this with Telford technical, I would be interested if anyone has done a pressure measurement and what sort of pressure do you thing it should maintain? I would expect a drop but not down to 2 bar.

Water connection. It will come onto your plot and there will be a stopcock in the ground provided by the supplier. That is where the water company's responsibility ends. It is then up to you to connect water to where you want it. What I did was buy 3 more stopcocks like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/atplas-box/123160048227?hash=item1cace93263:g:5uwAAOSwLe5avhqT Yes I know that listing has ended but it shows what you want. I used 3 of them, one feeds the standpipe for building water (which will remain as a garden tap) One feeds the static caravan (which in our case is remaining after the build) and the third feeds water to the house. Doing it this way you do it once and once only. I would bury the pipes to protect them from damage and frost. You are supposed to fit a double check valve on the feed to the caravan and the standpipe, and Scottish Water refused our connection initially until we had fitted them. Telephone, is it overhead or underground? Normally the engineer that makes the connection is flexible, get them to route it to the caravan but leave plenty of cable coiled up so it is long enough to reach into your house when you are ready. I would not trouble the telephone co with the move, your electrician can move it when you are ready.

Wood fibre can take render, in this case the Baumit.com version. Gives the traditional Highland look without any blockwork My wife and I fitted all the wood fibre ourselves then got a man to render it.

You have hit the nail on the head when you say they are disinterested. Took nearly 2 months for our connection which was a pantomime. Look on the bright side. WHEN it finally gets connected, get onto that CEO's number and negotiate your compensation. I got all but £5 of the connection fee refunded and a substantial discount for 12 months. I have just renewed even cheaper, they price matched what Plusnet would offer for a new customer. There is no need to pay BT anything like their fictitious full price.

That would be using it for something it was not designed for. And the expansion vessel and kit is cheaper.

We paid a builder to do the foundations, and build and erect the frame. Since then I have done everything including the roof tiling, exterior cladding, insulation, plasterboard, wiring, plumbing, internal joinery. The only thing I got somebody in for was the external rendering and internal plastering. I should just scrape in under £1000 per square metre.

Mains cables have to stick to safe zones so you are stuck with where they go. No such restriction for data cables so move them out of the safe zones away from the mains cables.

I have seen sliding pocket doors with recessed flush handles that slide right into the pocket, then a little fold out finger pull on the edge to retreive the fully hidden pocket door.

Almost got me. But "Does not post to Scottish Highlands". Aaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhhhhhh Any reason not to buy this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Altecnic-ERES-12-Litre-Heating-Expansion-Vessel-Sealed-System-Kit-EasiFit/221958453674?hash=item33adc139aa:g:OhYAAOSwwmlZiA0K 12L for only a couple of £ more and will post it here. Anything wrong with being bigger than needed?

If it gets to 90C it will be the first heat pump in history to do so.

I worked it out on 300M of UFH pipe and 30M of 22mm and that came to 50L Add a bit for 2 manifolds? Need to add the volume of the heatpump input coil on a 300L Telford tank.

So based on a total 50 litre volume, what size expansion vessel?

What are you trying to achieve? Putting it in "conduit" encased in insulation won't stop you having to think about derating the cables and the earthwool won't harm the cables so is seems a pointless exercise. Be sure to well and truly de burr the ends of the pipe.

Re the FIT. I have always thought the system we have is bonkers. Initially the FIT rate was way too high (not complaining I am still benefiting from it) Now it is way too low. (I AM complaining about that) I also object to having to have an MCS contractor install it to claim the FIT which we all know pushed up the price a LOT. A far better system would be no equiment subsidy, no need for a special installer, just a normal electrician who will issue an EIC as he would when wiring a new house, and a fair payment for exported power with a meter that actually mesures export and pays an actual metered rate, not far below the import rate. Reading this thread, and on the basis I am almost certainly going non FIT, I will probably just install mine and say nothing to anybody. I will be doing my damned best to use it all so not much will "escape" anyway.

A generous estimate of volume puts my system at 50 litres so I don't need much expansion room. Can the over pressure valve go anywhere? i.e outside on either the flow or return pipe to the ASHP so if it blew it would vent onto the ground thus removing one of my objections (need to vent the blow off)

Watching a novice with a cordless is nothing compared to a novice with a hammer and some nails. This thread pains me at discussing ways to spend money and time disposing of something that others would find useful. For heavens same just keep posting it on freecycle until someone comes and gets it.

I have never cleaned with any solvent. Fine steel wool will have it shining bright, flux on straight away before you even touch it with bare hands. The fittings are going black because you are getting it way too hot. And looking at the "subject" joint, I can't see you are end feeding it? I personally like to end feed a bit just to be sure, and you definitely know it when you have done so. Another mistake I see (even some plumbers) is they are too quick to grab the joint with a wet rag and clean it all off while it is still hot. I prefer to leave the flux while it is cooling and only wipe it with a dry rag when it is pretty cool.