ProDave

List price about £2K I believe.

And sell faulty #1 meaning working #2 only cost £305. Plus a lot of wasted time.

And mine only £455 But I am now on No 2 which thankfully appears to work, unlike No 1

I made the mistake at the last house (first gravel drive I had ever done) of getting "20mm gravel" which turned out to be 20mm round pebbles that just rolled over each other as you drove over them. It really did take many years for them to bed down sensibly. What you really want for a solid drive is crushed stone, i.e. each stone is an irregular shape from being crushed, and they bind together with much less movement between them.

This is my initial conclusion and in due course I will be looking to stitch a conventional heating programmer into the system so you can basically ignore the supplied programmer, and control it all from conventional straightforward heating controls. There are one or two challenges for this but I have some ideas. Watch my thread when I get around to doing it.

By "all electric" I assume you mean E7 or E10 and an electric boiler? Even if running entirely at off peak rates, "electric boilers" are not liked by buyers, they fear ££££££ heating bills. But in general buyers are disinterested in "green" things. When trying to sell our old house, not one viewer was remotely interested in the solar PV paying out at the original high rate with another 22 years left to run on the FIT contract.

I just phoned all the haulage firms for a quote. They need to know the weight of the machine and where it's going from and to and should give you a price. Mine was £264 to move a 3t machine 70 miles and it was delivered on an 11t beaver tail truck. When I sold it, the buyer arranged haulage and it was collected on a similar size lorry. I did try the car transporter businesses but they would not touch it.

You can buy repeaters on ebay, of dubious legality but they do work.

I do have a bypass valve but I briefly tried it by shutting the HW motorised valve and even with the bypass valve on it's weakest setting, the thing tripped on low flow, but of course I didn't even have time to run down and see what the flow meter said. More work to do.

That is what I am thinking. However the "correct" way to wire it all is the heat pump controls the motorised valves, presumably so when it switches from room heating to hot water heating on it's own timers, it swaps them over. The question is , is there any intelligence to allow for the time for the motorised valves to operate? This is why I need to think carefully about a scheme to control the whole lot in a sensible way.

That was direct into the HW tank, a 300L Telford UVC with the high capacity heat pump input coil. The motorised valve for the tank held in the manual overide position (controls not yet fully wired) It can only be the length of pipe limiting flow rate. I haven't yet tried driving the UFH, that might re open the flow rate issue. One particular issue I am expecting is the manual says "motorised valves must operate within 90 seconds" yet it appears the unit will trip out of the flow switch does not trigger within 10 seconds. That sounds like a problem, particularly with the time delay of the thermal UFH manifold actuators.

Yes pump was set to max.

And now onto the subject of how to integrate this into a whole house heating system and how to control it. The unit comes with a "Remote controller" which is it's own user interface. The idea is you are supposed to use that to control the whole house heating system and that alone. BUT it is a fiendishly complicated thing, I am only just beginning to scrape the surface of how you program it and use it. I remain to be convinced that this is the only user interface I want to have to control my whole house heating system. I have some ideas that I will discuss in due course. As well as being the heating programmer, this remote controller gives access to many setup parameters to vary some aspects of how the heating system works. The first of these that has jumped out at me as being "odd" is the default parameters for hot water heating. When I first turned it on, it heated my water tank for 30 minutes then shut down. It had not reached it's target temperature. Looking through the parameters, it seems there are some timers set up. The first sets how long the heat pump heats the hot water for at one time, and is set to a default of 30 minutes. The second sets how long it stops heating the hot water for, and is set to a default of 180 minutes. I can only assume this rather odd timing is because when heating hot water, it stops heating the rooms. and someone felt that turning the room heating off for more than 30 minutes might cause an issue. For the moment I have set both timers to 30 minutes so when heating the hot water it is now 30 minutes on, 30 minutes off. That might mitigate against defrost cycles when conditions are poor? There is a third timer parameter relating to hot water heating, and that is a time delay before it turns on the immersion heater in the HW tank. Again I assume this is done to speed up HW heating? But I don't want it to use the immersion heater except for anti legionela heating. There are other parameters that affect the operation of the electric heaters that require further investigation. What I want to end up with, is the supplied remote controller being just a tool to set up the unit, and day to day operation controlled by a 3 channel central heating programmer, so I can set times for upstairs and downstairs heating, and hot water heating, and quickly and simply turn any one on or off using a simple standard programmer. I have some ideas, and also some challenges ahead to implement that, more of which I will discuss later.

I see no mention of the right of access being passed down to successive owners? Normally that is explicitly stated.

My plumber friend nearly installed the Grant oil / ashp hybrid 2 years ago but I believe the price was eye watering. He ended up just with the Ecodan Air source Heat Pump and I believe it is working okay.

I have started this thread to discuss all aspects of the LG Therma V Air Source Heat Pump that I am just installing and in particular a control strategy for it. I have the 5KW monoblock version of this unit. But first I want to talk about water flow rate requirements. This is an essential subject, but one completely overlooked in the installation manual, and I could not find anything searching on the internet, so feel it is time for some simple clear and concise information. When I first connected my heat pump and tried to run it, it almost immediately tripped on a "CH14" error which is water flow rate. The installation manual does not quote a minimum or a maximum water flow rate which I find an astonishing omission. Before I did anything else, I went and bought a flow meter and installed that so I had a measure of the water flow rate that I was achieving, and that came back with a figure of 14 litres per minute. It then took an email exchange with LG technical to be told the flow switch is "Set to 10 litres per minute plus or minus 3" So I guess my 14 l/m was just failing to trigger the flow switch. In my case I solved this by adding a second circulating pump external to the heat pump, and that boosted my flow rate to 20 litres per minute and the unit then sprang into life. During my email exchange with LG technical, they sent me a copy of the service manual for this unit. I won't post that for download, but if anyone wants a copy I will send it by email if you send me a PM.

What is completely mad in this case, is nowhere in the installation manual does it actually state the minimum water flow rate required for the unit to operate. I can't help feeling their technical department waste a lot of time answering this simple question that should be stated in the manual.

Well word came back from the manufacturer this morning that the flow switch is "set at 10 litres per minute +- 3 litres" So I guess my indicated 14 litres per minute just wasn't quite enough. So I fitted a second circulating pump (put back the one I took out when I installed this heat pump) and that pushed the flow rate up to 20 litres per minute and the unit sprang into life, and as I type this is busy heating my water tank.

I started a thread on this and it petered out because I have not got round to it yet. I identified some hinges you can buy on ebay, but there was a bit of doubt which one to buy as I want it to open both ways. The glass will come from a local window company who will cut it to size, drill the holes to suit the hinges, and then toughen it. I had an initial price but never firmed up on the details. I was planning 8mm glass. 1800mm tall by 900mm wide and 3 hinges. The glass won't "seal to the wall" in my case. The 3 hinges will fix to the wall and there will be a small gap between the glass and the wall as there will be between the glass and the floor, but mine is a wet room.

Cut a strip to width. Use the offcut for the same bit on the other side.

I would be worried about standing water soaking timbers somewhere with nowhere to drain to until it eventually evaporates. I would want to see what has happened, otherwise there may be a nasty surprise in the future.

3/4 of my house is now boarded and plastered. I did the boarding myself (me and SWMBO). The actual cost for the plastering got a bit blurred. He has plastered my house, I will be wiring the new house he is about to start building. Not much money will change hands. He plastered bare plasterboard with 2 coats of multifinish done and finished in a day. Most of our walls are studs and battens at 600mm centres. The only place any reinforcing was done behind the boards was where we knew we were going to hang things, e.g speakers, tv's kitchen units, ceiling mounted cooker hood. they all have back plates behind the PB to screw through into. You do obviously need to first fix wiring and plumbing before fixing the plasterboard. Regards VAT, it is a new build. Labour should be zero rated, you will NOT be able to claim it back if wrongly charged. Likewise if he supplies materials on a supply and fit basis, they should be zero rated, again you will NOT be able to claim back wrongly charged VAT for supply and fit. If YOU buy the materials you will pay VAT and file the receipt for your VAT reclaim at the end of the build.

Interesting read, and of course common sense. But when you start looking at a graph suggesting that because I have set my UFH pipes at 200mm spacing, I will need to run water around them at about 40 degrees, you realise that article is not "fine tuned" for a low energy house.

This is precicely the logic I am using to initially try mine from a 5KW ASHP with no buffer. If it proves problematic I can add a buffer later. Also, I know the blending valves on the UFH manifolds won't go to a low enough temperature, so I am intending to set the ASHP water flow temperature in heating mode very low indeed to regulate the UFH water temperature. I will report back when I eventually get it running.

Was that a hedge against Brexit or some other reason for wanting dual nationality?