ProDave

Is the hot water scalding hot when you run the hot tap? i.e. on the verge of boiling? Vented or unvented cylinder? I guess vented as unvented would not normally have a header tank in the loft. The header tank in the loft should be cold. If the water in it is hot or warm, that is wrong. Hot or warm water in the header tank is usually caused by the hot tank overheating and pumping hot water out of the vent into the header tank.

We need photos of what has been done on the other side.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cp959zl5lzko Plans for 18 affordable homes have been refused for a second time amid fears the development could endanger the Welsh language. In September, Botwnnog community council said it wanted a proposed housing scheme in the village to be limited to people who only speak Welsh. It said it would be a "a danger to the Welsh language and the fabric of the community" and the county council, Cyngor Gwynedd, refused to back the scheme.

A more zoomed out photo showing the whole window and how it fits the frame all round is needed to answer if it is the hinge that has slipped or the glass within the window frame that has slipped.

Am I having a DeJaVu moment or have I seen that exact wall discussed here before (by previous owner?)

I recall seeing it mentioned. I questioned at the time how the meter it, and the answer was you needed a particular HP with a built in certified meter from which they calculated the reduced rate for that alone.

We have a seasonal high water table, Mid summer perhaps June or July is the driest. I would never have thought of digging in September let alone October. We were about 1.5 metre without shuttering but needed a pump to keep the water out. BCO inspection and pour same day.

People often criticise ASHP's for being "noisiy" I am visiting relatives and they have a gas boiler on the landing of all places right outside our bedroom door. When that fires up in the morning it is like a jet plane on the landing getting ready for take off. How on earth do people put up with something so noisy INSIDE their house, when instead they could have something so much quieter to produce their heat, and what little noise it makes is OUTSIDE their house.

I fitted a wood burning stove in mine and burned coal overnight to keep it in. It burned almost non stop from November to February. And a couple of plug in electric heaters in the bedrooms with thermostats.

Surely if you stipulate the install should be done outside bird nesting season they can't charge that bird nesting survey?

All finished now and all housing matters concluded. It was worth it in the end even if it took longer and did not happen quite as planned. The overall result makes it all worth it. Now winding down my electrical business and retiring.

My pet thought on this subject is WHY do people pay the same for a leaky old wreck just because it looks nice? Surely it is about time the market valued houses by their true worth and old houses needing 10's of 000's of £££ spent should be worth less than nice modern efficient houses?

I am pretty sure once they know about it (which they do) the 4 year clock stops counting. You need to get away with something without the council finding out for 4 years.

What size and depth of hole? If you are not in a hurry, I would use Gyproc Pro Mix lite, jointing filler, BUT (hence not in a hurry) if anything more than a very thin skim it take ages to set. And handy if you have a tub, but mot something you are likely to go out and buy as it only comes in huge tubs. But once set it is easily sanded and painted.

I realise it is a measure of different things, but to the uneducated it sends a mixed message, your diesel is cleaner so less VED but it is too dirty to drive into a LEZ. Expecting all the general public to understand that is a bit like your kWh per hour situation.

Yes but we still have contradictory "messages" from the government. I drive a diesel car as I wanted a car capable of towing a heavy trailer. To buy a petrol one that powerful would have cost a lot in VED. So I chose a diesel one. The VED is based on Kg of CO2 per km and that is lower, a lot lower, on the diesel one so lower VED so it must be less bad for the environment. But on the other hand I am told my diesel car is way too dirty to drive into a LEZ but the previous, older, petrol one with higher CO2 per Km was okay. One can forgive the public for being cynical with such mixed messages.

Are you sure it is not the frame that is bowed?

Why did you let him do that? I am surprised building control did not pick this up?

I take the more realistic view, that for a house without mains gas available, a HP will get you down to about the same heating cost as mains gas and better than any other electric option or oil.

My only thought is if there is no wall above, and the existing supporting wall is at 1/3 span, why not install the new beam at 1/2 span, i.e. not exactly where the existing wall is. That would be better from an engineering point of view and you could install the new beam first, then take down the wall without jacking anything up. 1930's houses were not well known for having properly sized beams, one I previously owned had sagged upper floors and a brick upstairs wall not directly above the downstairs wall.

You do NOT need 3 bar for and ASHP. 3 bar may be nice for an unvented hot water tank. Upgrading pipe size will not increase static pressure, it might improve flow rates. What is the highest static pressure you get? It might be worth fitting a large accumulator that will charge up to the highest static pressure slowly then deliver a higher pressure at time of use. I am pretty sure you are not allowed to pump directly from the mains (i.e. suck water out of the mains pipe) so any pumped solution would have to be from a break tank.

I would definitely get attic trusses, so much better and not that much more expensive.

I may be wrong, but a set of stairs would have to meet building regs regards to pitch, width, etc and in particular clear headroom above the stairs and landing. That will mean you forming a permanent compliant landing "upstairs" then with a door through to the loft. I might be inclined to wait for completion, and then fit a space saving staircase and some form of easy to open loft hatch when you get to the top of the stairs.

The 3M linit is only if you are relying on the DNO's fuse as the circuit protection. Fit your own (in my case switch fuse with 80A fuse in it) and there is no such limit.

Sorry I don't recall how it was resolved. The troubleshooting download still works for me, but it does not tell you a lot apart from what the error codes mean, not what to do about it. I wish I had posted how it was resolved but I didn't and have no recollection of what was done.