ProDave

Was that on line or from a timber merchant? I have tried the only 2 half decent timber merchants I could find in Inverness, Woodstock and Rembrand and neither seemed able to offer me oak to make door frames with. In the last house I did the same as you suggest, frame made in 2 halves with the joint under the door stop but that was only in pine. Skirtings and architrave will almost certainly be the oak veneered offering from Howdens, subject to seeing a sample.

Yep, I have read it again and am still none the wiser, and I regard myself as reasonably intelligent. When you drop in a word like "Symbiotic" into the description, that to me is a "bamboozle alert" I suspect they mean it only charges the Sun Amps when green, low or zero carbon electricity is available, if that is the case, why not say that?

Now can someone tell me how to make / buy oak door frames to fill a 180mm thick wall without sacrificing an arm and a leg please.

It is a bit of a fail when your "comma separated variables" file, does not have any comma's in it. There is even a clue in the name.

Hi and welcome That sounds like a nice project I wish you well with it.

If I am reading it correctly this is 2 doors into one bathroom which must be "accessible" I believe only 1 door needs to comply. Our downstairs loo, and provision for downstairs bathroom has 2 doors, one from the hall, and one out to the garage. BC have already confirmed that only the door from the hall needs to meet the "accessible" requirements, the one from the garage does not.

This sounds like an "after completion" job to me. Built the (presumably) timber stud internal wall with the required door opening in it, then after taking careful measurements and pictures, plasterboard over the opening (what opening) Then later on with no building inspector to criticise, build the hidden door. My "after completion" list is getting bigger all the time.

On our first build, we dug up a complete car door, and a wheel complete with tyre still holding air.

Just for the record, my LG ASHP has the strainer built into the heat pump itself. It was one of the first things I checked when getting flow issues.

Unless it trips at the point the timer switches on or off, then the fact it is "on a timer" is a red herring. It is so simple to try the pump up a speed, so why not just try that first. As I say I got so confounded by this issue getting mine to work that I put a flow meter in so I could see what flow I was achieving. As it happened I was only under the required flow rate by a tiny bit. Now I know I am comfortably above the minimum requirement and mine has not tripped since.

I think the first question is where is the HW cylinder going? I would be putting it in that double door cupboard on the landing. That puts it pretty central to all points of use, so a manifold in the bottom of thet cupboard and direct to each room should be fine. Far far simpler than multiple distributed manifolds. EDIT just seen the plan for the UVC in the garage. Sory but that is the very last place I would put it, the run to e.g the kitchen would be far too long.

They are both expansion vessels. One will be for the heating system, probably the red one, and one will be for the unvented hot water tank, probably the white one. Turning the pump up higher is an obvious thing to try I would run it as fast as you can without it becoming too noisy.

That looks like a fantastic plot. Care to post the house design yet? If you want to build as close as possible to the old house you could leave off the wall finish on that elevation until the old house has gone that might enable you to get a bit closer?

Yes I would say blocked stink pipe. Which would be unusual as in most cases the stink pipe also serves the upstairs bathroom(s) The fact you have not mentioned those suggests this is just a stink pipe. If you are going to replace it anyway, cut it off a metre or so above ground and rod down the pipe with drain rods to try and clear the blockage, but if it has collapsed underground then it will be start digging.

This is going to be a good thread. So a set of bookshelves, and when you remove the "special" book, the shelf opens to reveal a door. @Onoff will design the actuators for you. P.S This must be the most inventive idea to get the council tax band down, hide half the house from view so he values it as a small house......

Do you have motorised valves? Are they opening quick enough? Mine expects to see sufficient flow just 10 seconds after switching on, that is a tall order for a motorised valve to open that quick.

Most folk just quickly learn how long it takes to heat up, and use a simple conventional programmer to turn it on for instance 2 hours before you want it to be warm. At the other end of the day you can turn it off before you have finished as it takes a similar length of time to cool down. Why make things complicated? The few times I have seen a complicated controller, it is not being used because nobody can understand it.

Reminds me of an old friend. His wife threw a pan at him, he ducked, and it went through the glass of the back door. Of course the broken window was his fault for ducking,

This one? https://www.zoopla.co.uk/for-sale/details/47684293?search_identifier=5fc46c9efda757debeac1c888138d11d Planning for 2 dwellings

Looking for the next project before you have finished the current one is the sign of a serial self builder. Help is available.

And that quote gets "gobbledegook of 2018 award" Anyone care to have a guess at what it actually means?

It is very easy, when living i n a part built house, to just grind to a halt, accept it as it is and not make much progress towards getting it finished. That is a constant issue for us as the next thing we really really need to do is doors, but I am not sure we can actually afford them yet, let alone a joiner to fit them. So I carry on doing stuff that needs doing that is cheap instead.

I was more interested in "The change is one of a double whammy for solar power in the UK, with energy regulator Ofgem also announcing measures on Tuesday that will see solar households pay more for their energy." How will that work? On our old house (where I am still collecting the FIT) the FIT and electricity supply are with different providers. I doubt the electricity supplier even know the house has solar PV. I can only guess this change mentioned will probably be in the form of some network charge deducted from FIT payments?

This issue comes up a lot and caused me a lot of trouble getting my ashp running. There will be a flow switch of some sort inside the heat pump to measure the water flow rate and it will shut down with an error if the water flow rate is too low. Different ones behave differently, some will restart automatically, some like mine need to be manually reset. It would help to know the make and model of heat pump that you have. For my own, I found I had to add an extra pump as the inbuilt one would not provide enough flow with my pipework, and I inserted my own flow meter so I could see what water flow rate was being achieved. It didn't help that the required flow rate is not even stated in the installation manual and I had to find that out by a call to technical support. You might want to sctutinise how it is plumbed, it could be something as simple as all radiators shut down their thermostatic valves when the rooms reach temperature and there is not enough flow then. Do you have an automatic bypass valve?

Can you post what they said about that?