ProDave

I would just put a small, say 4 way CU right in the very top right of the meter box. Use that to feed your site power, remembering that the site power sockets need to be fed from a TT earth (local earth rod) Then get your chosen supplier to install a meter. Once they have done that, you will have a better idea how much space you have left in the meter box. For the permanent house supply, you will need to feed that via a switch fuse with an 80A fuse in it. Hopefully once the meter is in you will still have room for that.

Hi and welcome. Where abouts are you? that will have a big impact on plot availablility. I doubt the recent relaxations in planning law will help self build plots, that is more about streamlining applications on large developments on land already zoned for housing development.

Hi and welcome to the forum. That looks like a "challenge" There is an old saying "If I wanted to get to there, I would not start from here" Don't let that put you off. I would say the first thing is repair that roof. then you will have a dry building to work with. Nothing wrong with creating a free standing well insulated "box" within the building if you can afford to lose some space. windows will be a challenge and where your insulated box will be compromised.

Watch your lighting scheme with that sort of shower head...

I'd go and park in the bus lane instead and pay the fine promptly.

Yes, rainfall head in the centre of the 1200mm wall and riser in the centre of the 900mm wall (so hose outlet slightly off centre) Controls well to the right, so you can turn the shower on and not get your arm squirted by the initial cold water.

Building control is still under the control of the local councils in the whole of Scotland.

We have the rainfall head half way along the "long" wall (of a 1200 my 900 shower) which happens to also be the one with the controls, and the riser half way along the short wall.

Move the rainfall head round the corner so it's on the "gable end" wall, not the sloping wall, that will get it higher.

Sure that is not just the shower head draining down? They have an annoying habit of dripping for a long time, or start dripping in the middle of the night hours after last use.

Yes should be easy to cap that to test it. P.S it is handy having been doing plumbing for years and having a big box of assorted plumbing fittings (I never throw any away) so I can usually rummage in the box and cobble up something for most situations.

Ask your planners what constitutes "starting" For us, is was forming the entrance to the plot. Condition 1 of the planning was the entrance must be formed before building work started and when i notified the planners I had started on that they sent me a letter confirming that the development had started.

Picture of the "shower head"? (I am guessing one of those horrible rainfall things?)

Are you over thinking this? What sort of noise issues have you really seen? The main consideration, is with an ASHP all the noise is made by the outside unit. So just position it where it will be least obtrusive? Ours is at the end of the house behind the garage. Even with the nearby bedroom window open you can't hear it, because it's round the corner and not very loud to start with. Why do people perceive an ASHP as "noisy" yet are prepared to put up with an oil fired boiler with a burner roaring inside the house which is much more invasive? I suspect some of the complaints you might have dealt with were perhaps old large units that don't have inverter drive? they can start up with quite a clonk,. and only run at full speed or off. A modern inverter driven ASHP will spend a lot of it's time just running gently not making much noise at all. The biggest source of noise nuisance from ours, is the water circulating pump (that you have with any heating system) that is the only thing you can hear inside the house but even so it annoys me so I just set the times so the heating is not on at night for a silent nights sleep.

Okay, so put the shower hose fitting in your picture on, fit the shower hose with a 1/2" male blank in the other end of the shower hose.

Unscrew your shower fitting from the wall elbow and screw a 3/4 male blank in.

Does it have to be plastic? I would bend a piece of copper to do that. Not sure if I would get 2 bends in that space so it might be a 45 degree bend to kick the pipe out from the wall then a 90 degree soldered elbow to take it down.

We used the biscuit mix upstairs in our last house. If floor loading is an issue, then aluminium spreader plates is a much lighter option.

I thought you had to register a septic tank with SEPA upon sale of a property now if it was not already registered? So surely that was done when you bought the property? I had great trouble getting permission from SEPA for a new discharge to a burn, and it was only when two other proposals had been rejected that they allowed it. I had to measure the flow rate of the burn to work out the dilution rate first. I think they were already worried at the amount of systems connected to the burn (including my immediate neighbour who is still using a plain septic tank discharging to the burn, illegal for 6 months now and nobody seems intent on making him upgrade)

I would guess that transformer is about 100KVA and is 3 phase. Don't get hung up on the supply capacity, 80A is plenty, but regardless of what they say you might get a 100A fuse anyway. My supply was only supposed to be 12KvA and should have come with a 60A fuse but they fitted a 100A one so I did not complain.

What is the make and the model of the heat pump (it should say on the manual) It should have flexi pipes, think of the things commonly used to connect sink taps, then enlarged several times over. You can usually tell because the outside piping where the flexi is, forms an arc, not straight lines. Take some photos? I agree the standard controllers are stupidly complicated things. I virtually ignore mine, and instead have it connected to a conventional central heating programmer so I cn set on and off times just as you would with any central heating, with a programmer that most people can understand.

Second picture is just plain WRONG. The only thing stopping that leaking is the under felt.

So you buy an old wreck for 35% less than a decent house. Can you build a replacement decent house for that 35%?

I still have very mixed feelings on a knock down and rebuild. Yes it does make the most technical sense, but you have paid "full house price" for a plot, that is the bit that does not make sense. We have a housing market that presently values a habitable old leaky wreck at almost as much as the energy eficcient new build that could replace it, meaning it is rarely cost effective to knock down a habitable house to replace it. I am mindful of one near here where they bought an old bungalow and it was only when they started to try and do some alterations, they found it had no foundations and there was nothing to work with, so they knocked it down and rebuilt. The result is they paid more than 3 times as much for a building plot as we did for our bare plot, and they have built a house that has cost them to build way way more that it would ever sell for on the open market. That is perhaps more of an issue here where plots are easy and cheap to buy.

I haven't decided but at least 3M by 6M