ProDave

If I was the neighbour I would have kept an eye on things and raised the non centre issue as soon as it became apparent. Also I would have been asking the roofer for s stack of spare tiles to match the old ones. The problem now if they were to try and move that joint more central, all the old tiles have probably gone in a skip, or been sold?

The hard wired interlink will be the same so old and new generation alarms work together. But it is increasingly common for them to be wireless linked.

The later Aico ones that we have are mains powered and interlinked. It is not clear if the internal batter is rechargeable or a 10 years lithium. Regardless they all have a "replace by" date 10 years from manufacture.

The Aico interconnect works at 9V dc. Is still works and the interconnected alarms still sound if the 230V is off and they are working on their backup batteries.

Is the chimney offset? Or is the roof joint not on the party line?

"Helps maintain room temperature unlike cheaper alternatives such as rockwool" tells me all I need to know about the designers.

Where I lived as a boy we had a similar shared ownership drive, with us at the end having a garage. The other houses either did not have a car or parked the car in their own back garden so they did not block the drive. Anyone could come and go without being in the way of others.

I recall the blissful ignorance of my first build 20 years ago. The lorry with the septic tank arrived, a simple quite light fibreglass "onion" the driver rolled it off the flatbed, it landed on the grass and stopped rolling before it got to the burn. Remarkably it did not break. Nobody discussed and I never thought to ask about delivery and unloading. This tine it was a heavier treatment plant and I did not want to take the risk of damaging it, and my little digger would not go high enough to lift it off a lorry. But the digger did indeed lower it into the hole.

That's the one. That's what I would choose if building now.

Have a look at the company (someone will be along to fill in the gap in my memory) that will supply an ASHP and all kit for "free" using the grant money, leaving you just to pay for the install.

Delivery on large items can make or break a deal. When ordering a treatment plant, most said I would be responsible for unloading, so would need a telehandler or forklift. But ordering it through a bilders merchant not only got a cheaper price, but delivery on their own wagon and offloaded by it's hiab.

All such documentation needs to be sent by a tracked postage service that gives you a proof of delivery.

Your work in the lane, is really just trying to use the lane as a "roof" to keep ALL water off the actual slab below it to hide the leak. As @crispy_wafer says you need to excavate around the offending window and seal the joint between slab and upstand to death.

So it sounds like when using immersion to top up heating because the HP can't cope or the settings are sub optimal, it relies on the temperature probe to control the temperature. I would not be happy with using that immersion with an EDDI without first fitting a normal thermostat with a temperature dial to it. It is quite possible that the reason the over heat tripped was because you put too much heat into it with the EDDI and the water reached the trip level because there was no other thermostat to stop it. On more than one occasion (like a recent holiday) the tank had maxed out at the set thermostat temperature as no HW was being used and a lot got exported in a few days. With no conventional thermostat on the heater you had a potentially dangerous situation. I would expect somewhere, hopefully very prominent, in the user instructions, with that configuration warning you not to use that immersion heater for anything else.

That's interesting. I have never seen one that does not have a temperature dial. But the standard Cotherm thermostat used in almost every other UVC with a conventional thermostat and the over heat trip should fit as a direct replacement. Is there a separate thermostat? I think Megaflow for instance have the thermostat remote from the heating element.

And bear in mind the fire implications, cables should be supported with metal clips so in the event of a fire they don't hang down endangering fire fighters.

I did my own plasterboarding. Whenever I had an offcut, I laid it out in clear view. Then whenever I needed a cut, I first looked at my stock of offcuts before cutting a new sheet. I was staggering just how small my waste pile was at the end of the job and how many of my offcuts got used elsewhere. Contrast that to when the boarder is not paying, you see lots of very large offcuts in the skip at the end.

If they are real bullies complaining for no reason, then word quickly gets around here and nobody will do work for them.

It depends what is wrong, the wiring? The setup? the immersion thermostat or the actual immersion element. Only the latter is strictly a plumbing job requiring the tank to be drained and a large immersion heater spanner, but many electricians will do that better than plumbers will fault find the wiring. If you want to tackle it yourself give us more information and photos and do you have any test equipment like a multimeter? If the over heat trip on the thermostat won't reset then it is faulty, but how do you know is has not reset without any testing? If you just want it done, just call a trusted electrician.

Foundations can be horrible, usually things get a lot easier when you are "out of the ground"

As a sole trader it is indeed very annoying when a client does not pay. It has only happened to me 3 times. Usually a "letter before action" gets the bill paid or at least gets the client talking to you to agree a compromise. The only time that failed was when a couple split mid job. The man paid half the invoice but the woman paid nothing. She claimed she had no money. I did not take it to court as I thought it futile and I had already received enough to cover all the materials and most of the labour. I did however have a bit of "satisfaction" when I later read the man had been found guilty of abusing the woman he left penniless.

I guess I am lucky to have a local plumber I know well and often worked with. He was happy for me to run all the pipes after discussing with him, he just came and filled the tank, checked everything and signed the paperwork for a modest sum.

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They are both wrong to charge you VAT on a new build. If necessary show them the PP to prove it is a new build. If they won't back down choose someone else. You will not be able to claim it back.

No they don't. See @JohnMo description above. You have to store the water in the thermal store much hotter than your target water temperature if you want to get a decent volume of water out, which is why they are a very poor match to an ASHP.