ProDave

gI presume you have a number of risers stacked? did you forget the bit O ring that should seal them? I am still surprised the amount of water ingress is enough to trouble a TP.

It boils down to do you want to poke the bear now, and risk them saying you can't do it? Or just do it anyway with the slight risk the bear might notice at some point in the future and you will have even more evidence of domestic use by then. I would just do it.

Lets have a sensible discussion on this please. Read this article. https://www.msn.com/en-gb/money/other/north-sea-has-three-times-more-oil-and-gas-than-government-claims/ar-AA1MX3Ag?cvid=d19c8bd9502c4998b87b235f0e1f617f&ei=39 The gist is, there is enough oil and gas in our own fields to see us through the transition to net zero. But instead we are closing our oil fields and importing foreign oil to fill that gap. Now please explain to me how this is a good thing for the environment? Importing oil has an environmental cost of transporting it by tanker which using our own does not. Using our own maintains employment, boosts the economy and provides energy security. I now await someone to explain how closing our oil fields early and importing oil is a good thing. It is this sort of stupid decision that leaves me and many others with little confidence the people planning these things understand what they are doing.

This is the best I can come up with The base will straddle over the drainage channel with a fixing either side on the flat concrete The sides plates are chosen so the fixing bolts go through the post parallel to the wall, making them easier to fit and anything sticking out is less of an ankle catcher. Can anyone see any issues or improvements?

The point is, put 1kW of electricity into a resistance heater and out comes to all practical purposes 1kW of heat. So really no resistance heater is more efficient than a different make, in spite of what a lot of the advertising bumph may try and tell you. The 300% efficient refers to a heat pump. Put 1kW of electricity in and you heat about 3kW of heat out, BUT the additional heat is not magic from nowhere, in the case of an air source heat pump, it is from cooling the air that passes through the unit or on the case of a water source heat pump, from cooling the water passing through it.

Apply for G98 export limited to 16A (3.68Kw) you can even notify after connection and it cannot be refused. You just need to find an inverter that will deal with your panels and battery but is limited to 16A export and G98 certified.

At last, I am starting the final unfinished project, the car port. It will measure 6 metres by 6 metres comfortably giving covered parking for 2 vehicles. So now I am planning it's build which I hope to start soon. However it has got a bit more complicated due to changing one of our vehicles and it now needs a minimum height clearance of 3.2 metres under it. Some aspects of this will be dealt with on the hoof as we encounter them. But the first issue is the supporting posts. I already have 6 150mm square larch posts that have been sitting on my trailer for a few months after being delivered from the saw mill. These are to be the main structural uprights. The plan was to get my neighbour to fabricate steel post foot brackets, as he did for similar ones for the balcony. They were a simple U shaped bracket that bolted to the concrete and the post sat in and bolted through keeping it off the ground. But there is a complication this time. These are the posts on the garage side. I want them to be close to, but not touching the garage wall. The issue is this aligns them with a drainage channel that was cast into the concrete when poured. This serves to take rainwater falling on the concrete away to the rear and keeping it from puddling against the wall. I throw it open to the creativity of the forum to suggest a suitable bracket. It will have to straddle over that drainage channel but be fixed down to one side on the flat part of the concrete. The post will be secured to the wall near the top for stability. For clarity, the real posts are much longer, this is just a mock up of how the post will sit using a short offcut from the balcony posts.

Mine all span the longest part of the room. But mine are structural so span across the joists, which of course all span the shortest part of the room.

So you are wanting a supply MOVE not a NEW supply. Significant difference. 2 ways to do this. MOVE the existing supply out of the old house to a temporary box somewhere and upon completion move it again into the new house. It costs for 2 moves. Alternative as many here have done is move it now to a kiosk somewhere close to the new house and leave it there forever. The meter will remain in the kiosk and the cable from there to the house is your responsibility. Any MOVE of the incoming supply is done by the DNO It is their cable their rules and only they can work on it. The best you can do is dig trenches for them to keep costs down. Whatever you do you must first get a quote from your DNO for the work, then post it here and we can discuss.

One thing I did when excavating for the digging is I scraped all the top soil off and put that in one huge pile, then all sub soil as trenches, treatment plant etc were dug in a separate pile. The last job my digger did, before I sold it was first to spread all the sub soil to build up the lower parts of the site, then spread the top soil evenly over the whole site. I finished it off by hand with a rake, mainly because by digger skills were not great, and to pick out stones on the surface. Then seeded the lot. Personally I think turfing is a lot harder, you would need to get the finished surface for turfing much more level and flat than just for seeding it. I left a small pile of top soil for finishing the strip of garden over the burn, which was not accessible to the digger, so that was a "spare time" job taking it over in a barrow and spreading by hand. I did NOT strip the whole site, just the but that was being built on. And before spreading and seeding, anything left growing (weeds) were seen to with Gallup360 Don't worry about the digger over compacting the soil. That's the main point of a tracked digger, they are low ground pressure.

If you have 7kW heat loss then a 7kW heat pump will be no good. At the coldest time (when the heat loss really is 7kW) the heat pump will have to be heating the house 24/7 and will not have time to heat any hot water. So I would suggest minimum of 10kW heat pump.

Yes. I have mine set for external room thermostat input which is actually the call for heat contact from the UFH manifold controller. Mine is an early one and the supplied controller is the most complicated, non intuitive thing I have met, I did not want to be using that to schedule on and off times etc, so I have a perfectly ordinary central heating controller for that, something which most people understand, and the heat pump is purely under control of the room thermostat input. Doing the same for DHW was more of a challenge. There is no official way to remotely turn DHW on or off. So my hack was use the same central heating controller so switch a relay. The relay contact then either connects the thermistor temperature probe to the controller (DHW on) or switches to a fixed resistor chosen to mimic the thermistor value at a high temperature. So fixed resistor in circuit = DHW off because it always thinks the water temperature is way above the set point. I am still waiting for some clever person to post details of the frost protection settings they found. We all know water freezes at 0C buy my experience is mine starts it's water circulation thing when the water temperature gets down to just 10C which I think is way too soon and I would love to be able to adjust it to say 5C

Yes Not quite finished there, but when the top layer of tarmac was added, the drive was level with the end of the ramp. On the sloping part, the decking boards used are the ones with a non slip material in the grooves. The flat part at the top are standard boards.

Try swapping them over? How does the dimmer work if just one of the alcove light clusters is connected to it?

Then it's either the wrong type or a faulty dimmer. It's a 2 hand dimmer, what does the other one do? Or is it one for the left alcove lights and one for the right?

The Main media tends to hightlight what it thinks (or is told?) is the correct message.

Have you tried the direct connection without the dimmer yet? Until you have tried that we are no further forward. A voltage tester is not much use on a dimmer switch there will always be enough leakage to make them think it is on when there is no load applied

GOOD. So why are we not seeing this headline promoted as encouragement that we are doing well, but still a way to go? The article that started this thread showed a graph with emissions still rising. If you are trying to encourage people to do more, don't post a graph like that when it does not relate to the UK. Post the one showing emissions are falling, we are making progress and what we are doing is working. AND use it to also highlight that while the UK is travelling in the right direction the rest of the world is not, yet. We can't directly control that other than hold ourselves up as a model to follow. Can others not see what I am saying here, all the main media portrays is how dire the situation is how bad we are and we must change much quicker, where the reality is WE (the UK) are doing quite well have made big improvements but we must continue to do so. Perhaps I am just a grumpy old man that would like some thanks for what we have done and results to show it is working and might therefore be encouraged to continue. I was starting to get very fed up that we kept on doing the right thing, but nothing appeared to be getting better and nobody was thanking us or even showing the progress so far.

You dismiss my question without answering it. So I will try again and hope someone can, Since at least 2000 we have been closing down down coal fired power stations and building wind farms and installing solar PV. Now a greater percentage of our energy is produced by renewable generation and less by fossil fuels than ever before. Logic would dictate therefore that over that period our emmissions have reduced. BUT the graphs in the links above still show emmissions are rising. THAT is what does not compute and I am questioning, at best all I can see is a slight reduction in the rate of rise, no sign of a fall. So lets spell out my concerns with this. IF all this changing to "renewables" has NOT resulted in a reduction in emmissions, then something is wrong. Is it that the green energy is not as green as claimed? Is the data flawed? or has our total generation risen over that period? wiping out the benefit of greener generation? Is it that unmentionable elephant in the room, population rise? If course population rise will increase CO2 emmissiins but we dare not discuss that. OR since the graph does not tell us WHERE the data is from, is that in fact GLOBAL emmissions are still rising while the UK is a head of the curve and our own emmissions are already reducing? We just don't know. All I see is we have been trying to clean up for some time, yet the "presented" evidence does not show it to be working. No wonder people are getting fed up with this. I want a greener cleaner world, but I hate being "manipulated" as seems to be the case to achieve this.

I have previously taken the screws out one by one, used a countersink bit in my drill to countersink the fixing holes, and replaced the screws with countersunk. The bent one, remove several of the bottom screws, ease it away from the wall but a block of wood behind and hammer the bent bit straight again. Replace screws.

This is all a bit silly really as the public single track road we live on is only 3M wide, and the turning head at the bottom of the road does not meet the turning circle requirements. So it should "fail" and no new houses be allowed because a Fire Engine cannot get to them according to the standard. But strangely, the bin lorry, very similar size to a FE makes the journey every week and does not have trouble turning round, as have many larger delivery lorries. And on the one occasion a real FE came down our road, it was not troubled by the 3M wide road, and was not troubled by the sub standard turning space. It really is irritating when the "standard" is so detached from actual real world requirements.

If you had even a half decent multi meter you could determine a lot about the fault. Do you have a multi meter?

So since 2000, if not before we have been building wind farms, installing solar and shutting down our worst polluters, coal fired power stations. So WHY are emissions STILL going up? It seems like we have been trying so hard for well over a decade, and nothing is even beginning to get better? WHY IS THAT? And in true politics fashion, if we are doing what we think will solve the problem, and it does not appear to be solving the problem, then lets just keep on doing it. Aka if you don't get the result you want, keep doing it until you do get the result you want.

Only done it once this autumn. It has been down as low as 6 degrees overnight already.

We know ours is doing this frost prevention thing because we can hear the faint hum of the circulating pump come on. Can you hear anything at all when it happens?