ProDave

And what they don't tell you is upgrading to 3 phase is not that straightforward. We don't have this magic "3 phase LV cable in the street" We have a single phase LV cable in the street fed from a single phase transformer up a pole which in turn is fed from a single phase 11KV overhead line. It spurs off a 3 phase overhead cable at least half a mile away. Then just see how many buildhubbers get very expensive quotes for a new supply because the cable right outside their house is already up to capacity. Frankly if I ever buy an EV and install a charger for it, I am telling nobody.

Some of us are ahead of the game here, we chose to put the meter on the boundary while building and then left it there. But if this is a large scale project for a lot of people, whether they want it or not, then lets just hope they make more of a success than the ending of the E7 RTS signal.

What are the bumps / blisters under the flat roof?

Talk of new data centres for all this AI investment that is due to land. Now here is a thought. There is more wind power in Scotland than can currently be transported south, and still they are building more. Why not build these power hungry data centres up here to use up some of that spare power? I bet they won't do anything sensible like that though.

Sometimes it is best not to try and work out "how" it works, because you are never quite sure how the 3 port mixing valve in this case is actually ported. If it ain't broke, don't try and fix it.

Which would be fine if that was a plan, with the industry kept at a level it COULD be extracted later at a better price. But I am afraid the way decisions are made it would be like saying "we still have all that coal in the ground, lets mine that again"

Treatment Plant but equally just how much ground water is leaking in to bother a septic tank?

gI presume you have a number of risers stacked? did you forget the bit O ring that should seal them? I am still surprised the amount of water ingress is enough to trouble a TP.

It boils down to do you want to poke the bear now, and risk them saying you can't do it? Or just do it anyway with the slight risk the bear might notice at some point in the future and you will have even more evidence of domestic use by then. I would just do it.

Lets have a sensible discussion on this please. Read this article. https://www.msn.com/en-gb/money/other/north-sea-has-three-times-more-oil-and-gas-than-government-claims/ar-AA1MX3Ag?cvid=d19c8bd9502c4998b87b235f0e1f617f&ei=39 The gist is, there is enough oil and gas in our own fields to see us through the transition to net zero. But instead we are closing our oil fields and importing foreign oil to fill that gap. Now please explain to me how this is a good thing for the environment? Importing oil has an environmental cost of transporting it by tanker which using our own does not. Using our own maintains employment, boosts the economy and provides energy security. I now await someone to explain how closing our oil fields early and importing oil is a good thing. It is this sort of stupid decision that leaves me and many others with little confidence the people planning these things understand what they are doing.

This is the best I can come up with The base will straddle over the drainage channel with a fixing either side on the flat concrete The sides plates are chosen so the fixing bolts go through the post parallel to the wall, making them easier to fit and anything sticking out is less of an ankle catcher. Can anyone see any issues or improvements?

The point is, put 1kW of electricity into a resistance heater and out comes to all practical purposes 1kW of heat. So really no resistance heater is more efficient than a different make, in spite of what a lot of the advertising bumph may try and tell you. The 300% efficient refers to a heat pump. Put 1kW of electricity in and you heat about 3kW of heat out, BUT the additional heat is not magic from nowhere, in the case of an air source heat pump, it is from cooling the air that passes through the unit or on the case of a water source heat pump, from cooling the water passing through it.

Apply for G98 export limited to 16A (3.68Kw) you can even notify after connection and it cannot be refused. You just need to find an inverter that will deal with your panels and battery but is limited to 16A export and G98 certified.

At last, I am starting the final unfinished project, the car port. It will measure 6 metres by 6 metres comfortably giving covered parking for 2 vehicles. So now I am planning it's build which I hope to start soon. However it has got a bit more complicated due to changing one of our vehicles and it now needs a minimum height clearance of 3.2 metres under it. Some aspects of this will be dealt with on the hoof as we encounter them. But the first issue is the supporting posts. I already have 6 150mm square larch posts that have been sitting on my trailer for a few months after being delivered from the saw mill. These are to be the main structural uprights. The plan was to get my neighbour to fabricate steel post foot brackets, as he did for similar ones for the balcony. They were a simple U shaped bracket that bolted to the concrete and the post sat in and bolted through keeping it off the ground. But there is a complication this time. These are the posts on the garage side. I want them to be close to, but not touching the garage wall. The issue is this aligns them with a drainage channel that was cast into the concrete when poured. This serves to take rainwater falling on the concrete away to the rear and keeping it from puddling against the wall. I throw it open to the creativity of the forum to suggest a suitable bracket. It will have to straddle over that drainage channel but be fixed down to one side on the flat part of the concrete. The post will be secured to the wall near the top for stability. For clarity, the real posts are much longer, this is just a mock up of how the post will sit using a short offcut from the balcony posts.

Mine all span the longest part of the room. But mine are structural so span across the joists, which of course all span the shortest part of the room.

So you are wanting a supply MOVE not a NEW supply. Significant difference. 2 ways to do this. MOVE the existing supply out of the old house to a temporary box somewhere and upon completion move it again into the new house. It costs for 2 moves. Alternative as many here have done is move it now to a kiosk somewhere close to the new house and leave it there forever. The meter will remain in the kiosk and the cable from there to the house is your responsibility. Any MOVE of the incoming supply is done by the DNO It is their cable their rules and only they can work on it. The best you can do is dig trenches for them to keep costs down. Whatever you do you must first get a quote from your DNO for the work, then post it here and we can discuss.

One thing I did when excavating for the digging is I scraped all the top soil off and put that in one huge pile, then all sub soil as trenches, treatment plant etc were dug in a separate pile. The last job my digger did, before I sold it was first to spread all the sub soil to build up the lower parts of the site, then spread the top soil evenly over the whole site. I finished it off by hand with a rake, mainly because by digger skills were not great, and to pick out stones on the surface. Then seeded the lot. Personally I think turfing is a lot harder, you would need to get the finished surface for turfing much more level and flat than just for seeding it. I left a small pile of top soil for finishing the strip of garden over the burn, which was not accessible to the digger, so that was a "spare time" job taking it over in a barrow and spreading by hand. I did NOT strip the whole site, just the but that was being built on. And before spreading and seeding, anything left growing (weeds) were seen to with Gallup360 Don't worry about the digger over compacting the soil. That's the main point of a tracked digger, they are low ground pressure.

If you have 7kW heat loss then a 7kW heat pump will be no good. At the coldest time (when the heat loss really is 7kW) the heat pump will have to be heating the house 24/7 and will not have time to heat any hot water. So I would suggest minimum of 10kW heat pump.

Yes. I have mine set for external room thermostat input which is actually the call for heat contact from the UFH manifold controller. Mine is an early one and the supplied controller is the most complicated, non intuitive thing I have met, I did not want to be using that to schedule on and off times etc, so I have a perfectly ordinary central heating controller for that, something which most people understand, and the heat pump is purely under control of the room thermostat input. Doing the same for DHW was more of a challenge. There is no official way to remotely turn DHW on or off. So my hack was use the same central heating controller so switch a relay. The relay contact then either connects the thermistor temperature probe to the controller (DHW on) or switches to a fixed resistor chosen to mimic the thermistor value at a high temperature. So fixed resistor in circuit = DHW off because it always thinks the water temperature is way above the set point. I am still waiting for some clever person to post details of the frost protection settings they found. We all know water freezes at 0C buy my experience is mine starts it's water circulation thing when the water temperature gets down to just 10C which I think is way too soon and I would love to be able to adjust it to say 5C

Yes Not quite finished there, but when the top layer of tarmac was added, the drive was level with the end of the ramp. On the sloping part, the decking boards used are the ones with a non slip material in the grooves. The flat part at the top are standard boards.

Try swapping them over? How does the dimmer work if just one of the alcove light clusters is connected to it?

Then it's either the wrong type or a faulty dimmer. It's a 2 hand dimmer, what does the other one do? Or is it one for the left alcove lights and one for the right?

The Main media tends to hightlight what it thinks (or is told?) is the correct message.

Have you tried the direct connection without the dimmer yet? Until you have tried that we are no further forward. A voltage tester is not much use on a dimmer switch there will always be enough leakage to make them think it is on when there is no load applied

GOOD. So why are we not seeing this headline promoted as encouragement that we are doing well, but still a way to go? The article that started this thread showed a graph with emissions still rising. If you are trying to encourage people to do more, don't post a graph like that when it does not relate to the UK. Post the one showing emissions are falling, we are making progress and what we are doing is working. AND use it to also highlight that while the UK is travelling in the right direction the rest of the world is not, yet. We can't directly control that other than hold ourselves up as a model to follow. Can others not see what I am saying here, all the main media portrays is how dire the situation is how bad we are and we must change much quicker, where the reality is WE (the UK) are doing quite well have made big improvements but we must continue to do so. Perhaps I am just a grumpy old man that would like some thanks for what we have done and results to show it is working and might therefore be encouraged to continue. I was starting to get very fed up that we kept on doing the right thing, but nothing appeared to be getting better and nobody was thanking us or even showing the progress so far.