ProDave

So how did the previous warming / cooling phases of the earth occur before man came along let alone before we started burning things? What PROOF do you or anyone have that if we stop all burning, the planet will then be fine? Why did the planet not go into thermal runaway when CO2 levels were previously higher, again before man had anything to do with it? Of course we should continue to clean up everything we do, but at a sustainable rate. Or are you one of the believers that thinks the only way is for us to go back to the stone age in how we live and work, no or little ability to travel anywhere etc, because THAT is what is necessary to achieve net zero as quick as we are being told, but nobody is telling it that it will severely limit what we do.

You WILL get a postal address when you register for council tax. Ours was given our chosen house name preceeded by "Caravan" done that way so when the house was complete, the caravan address could be removed from the register and the house name added. Knowing this, bank accounts, car insurance, and everything else we just told them the new address as it was going to be not bothering with the "caravan" bit to save changing it a second time.

I have never found ANY documentation on that, so can you share what you know please? The IH I referred to is what is generally known as a willis heater, a standard immersion heater in a tube with a low volume of water passing through it. There is definitely one in mine. The LG manual referrs to it as a stage 2 heater, used for example if you want very hot water for instance. I have disabled all forms of stage 2 electric heating so mine never uses that now. How practical are you? you could always open the unit up and physically disconnect it? My suspicion is if you have the stage 2 electric heating enabled, it might turn that on for it's frost protection when mine only turns on the circulating pump and steals some heat from the house. Another theory is some heat pumps have a sump heater to heat the compressor oil. I have not heard of that on an LG but of fitted can be a cause of unexpected use at idle.

The most vigorous mouthpiece for global warming is man made and disaster is imminent of we don't all stop burning oil. They NEVER air anything whatsoever that might question if that really is the best way forward.

WHY are most of the wind farms still being built in Scotland, when it is so far away from the centres of usage and the existing grid cannot cope? How about more wind farms are built on the Cotswolds, Chilterns, Berkshire Downs, South downs etc etc, see how they like their hills blighted with wind farms and pylons? I was travelling the north coast from Thurso to Cape Wrath last week and a staggering amount of new wind farms are being built along that north coat which WILL require another large high voltage pylon running south, probably very close to my house.

That's where I sit. Our pollution is way less than it used to be but we rarely see any praise for that. And yes we should improve our renewable generation as fast as we can, but without setting unachievable targets that just serve to cripple the countries economy and kill our remaining industry * And then blame us for not all buying EV's when it is not achieved. How about acknowledging we will STILL need oil for a long time, but in hopefully diminishing amounts. So lets use our own, rather than increase polution buying foreign oil and trasnporting it long distances. Not to mention the energy security and employment by continuing to use our own oil. * We have closed down our virgin steel blast furnaces and about to shut another oil refinery. Because they are too polluting. Great WE might be a little bit greener but have fewer jobs and a poorer economy, but the WORLD won't be any greener as instead that heavy industry is being done in another country that is not so short sighted.

Can you post a much closer picture of the bottom rail of that manifold? Most manifolds have a flow meter for each loop where you can see, and adjust the flow rate for each loop. But I don't see that on your manifold. I am hoping if we see a closer picture of the bottom rail someone might recognise them and know a way to adjust flow rates.

If, like me, you are at all skeptical of the current push for "net zero" have a read if this. Try and read it without prejudice and for a moment forget all the media hype constantly fed to us about net zero. https://www.conservativewoman.co.uk/weve-got-trouble-with-wind/ It does a good job of explaining how we stand no hope of reaching net zero without a massive amount of storage for when the wind does not blow. Yet like sheep most accept this relentless drive to build more and more wind farms on the promise it will lower our energy bills.

Do you have individual metering on the ASHP if so which ctace is that on your graph. My 5kW LG therma V does indeed turn on it's circulating pump as it sees fit if the water temperature drops below 10 degrees and circulates for a few minutes. the colder it gets the longer it needs to circulate to warm the water by stealing some heat from the house. It is presumably a frost protection routine that is not mentioned anywhere in the manual, does not appear anywhere in the setup and cannot be turned off. But it is only the circulating pump in my case. However I have all use of the internal willis heater turned off. I seem to recall if you have enabled the internal heater functions, that it may turn that on as part of it's frost protection routine. It is a shame this function is not properly documented.

This is a case where I say just what will you achieve by moving the wall such a small distance? A LOT of cost and effort for a small gain. You have a blockwork wall seemingly not bothered by the tree (because the wall is on piles) and seemingly the wall is not bothering the tree. Leave them all alone. Clad the outside of the existing blockwork wall with external wall insulation and cladding to upgrade it, and keep the rest of it as your structure. A full plan drawing of what you are trying to achieve might make more sense of why you seemingly want to demolish a wall and rebuild such a short distance away.

The top hinge is worn out. There is play in the various joints so it has all gone sloppy. change both the hinges, or get a window fitter to change them. As it may not be possible to get an exact replica, change top and bottom.

So is this the neighbour building the extension, not you? Put the responsibility of protecting your wall on them?

Well done @nod You have shown if you are dilligent and do a lot yourself you can still self build for under £1000 per square metre.

As above once the supply is installed into your kiosk there is no need to move it, the supply and meter will stay there and you lay a big armoured cable from there to feed the house.

Plumbing was simple. The tank came with a basic filter bowl and isolating tap and it was just a 10mm plastic coated copper pipe to the tiger loop by the house. Pumping oil out of the old tank somewhere else will be expensive, can you not wait and run the old tank almost dry then what's left you could transfer yourself to small suitable containers? I imagine disposing of the old tank won't be cheap.

Just like we did not decrease our voltage, I bet they did not increase theirs either. A paperwork exercise. All it may have achieved is manufacturers design stuff to work over a wider range of voltages, which with most things using switching power supplies happened anyway.

I had no problem just installing mine myself on the previous house, onto a concrete base. BC even allowed us to put the tank right next to the house, not a distance away, as the wall it was adjacent to had an outer skin of rendered blockwork and no windows so was deemed to be "fireproof"

Our previous house was required to have a tank with internal bund because it was close to a watercourse. you are supposed to have a bund alarm that detects fluid in the bund meaning the tank has failed. But agreed is is much more likely the outer bund will have failed due to damage or UV degredation long before the inner skin fails and then leaks into the now ineffective bund.

Almost all houses I have ever worked on have been over 240V We "changed" to 230V some time ago but all that did was change the target with then a lop sided minimum and maximum tolerance meaning the typical 240V that almost every house receives is well within tolerance, If you want to rule out voltage rise due to local PV generation, measure it at night when it is dark.

Re the bins. There are thousands of remote houses here with long driveways and the owners just wheel the bin down and leave it at the street on bin day then wheel it back. Don't tell me that common sense solution is no longer accepted? The other issue is do you have a legal right to pass and re pass on foot and in vehicles to the potential plot?

As a non professional (at least not a structural professional) I have seen this sort of thing a lot. The left hand side of the arch has to support a lot of weight in a small space, so my take is the mass on that left had footing is more Kg per square metre than the rest of the foundations and that left hand foundation has settled more. Given the age of the house I bet the foundations are not particularly deep. The crack is not going to go away. IF you buy it now like that, it might just stay the same, it might get worse but one thing is sure if you ever decide to sell the buyer will be asking the same questions. The only safe way is to get a structural survey and then negotiate the price down for the repairs needed. Or walk away and find a different property. It all depends how much you want it.

I was about to say that. Cheap, they seem to work, and the pointed arrow head bit does not skate around. Usually sold as a set of 3, 4mm, 6mm and 8mm No coolant needed.

AND check both diagonals of the door FRAME as well.

When you find out how to accurately predict rain, wind speed and direction, please let me know (speaking with my boating hat on)

Here is a link to the heat loss spreadsheet