ProDave

I had something similar with my first ASHP that was DOA. They wanted me to uninstall it put it on a pallet and sent it back to them. I protested that is ridiculous, you would not for instance be expected to take a gas boiler off your wall and send it back to be fixed. An ASHP is an "installed product" This was rectified when I eventually found who the parent company was and contacted the CEO. Then they were happy so send me a replacement.

Don't be in a hurry to fill it in straight away. It sounds like a handy place to lose all hardcore, rocks and anything else solid and inert that you need to get rid of when you start building.

How do you do that in a flat where you probably have no access to the inter floor space above the flat?

Why do you want to heat your DHW to 60 degrees? Plenty of us in here heat out DHW to 48 degrees with an ASHP and it is plenty hot enough. Because you will dilute the hot water with less cold in use, you do need to consider a larger tank, mine is 300 litres. 48 degrees was chosen by me by experiment as the hottest I could just about hold my hands under if filled the kitchen sink just with hot water. Why would you want it hotter than that?

Yes as long as there are no planning conditions you need to satisfy first.

My reading is it links directly to your wifi. Are you saying it only works if it can talk to some cloud service? That would certainly put me off. that is why I am asking for someone who has actually used one to tell it like it is.

New installation could still be air bleeding out of an automatic bleed valve? 0.8bar is a bit low, try re pressurising to 1 bar and see how it goes.

I would hate to buy one then find it falls short when used with solar PV and a burst firing PV dump controller. Is there anyone on this forum that has actually used one and can confirm it reads import and export and correctly "averages" the burst firing of an energy bucket PV dump controller? If I get confirmation it does all that correctly I would buy one, but their website is a little scant on details.

How does it cope with solar PV and a PV diverter? I bought a similar thing, different make very cheap like that one, but found it was totally useless with the PV. for a start it could not tell import from export, so if the PV was exporting it showed as "use" and when the PV diverter was doing it's thing (energy bucket principle so energy going backwards and forwards) it counted that as double. I would like such a device, but it must cope with the PV and the PV diverter properly and I have never found such a device. The closest I have got so far is the energy meter built into my own PV diverter which is an old analogue centre zero meter that shows import and export properly. The only reason I would like such a device is it's portability and nice display.

Is it just me, but I would not dream of going to a neighbour and saying "Oi, your weeds are coming into my garden, sort it out" I would just deal with them in my garden myself. Unless it was JKW

The Impey wet room shower former that I used has the waste offset in a central circular section that could be rotated, so as you rotated it, the off centre waste position changed. You would be very unlucky indeed if you could not find a position with that where the waste did not line up with one of your gaps. And if it was only slightly off, move the whole tray over slightly and fill in the gap. https://www.impeyshowers.com/Wetroom-floor-formers/Aqua-Dec-EasyFit-Wetroom-Floor-Former/

Is it just me, or should the term "battery" be restricted just to something that stores or produces electricity? This thing described is a THERMAL STORE. Yes, a big night storage heater. It may be heated by electric resistance heating, but the stored energy is taken out as hot water not as electricity, so I believe the term "battery" is wrong for this.

Have a careful read of this thread before deciding

Go direct to the individual utilities rather than through an agent.

If you are wackering it, you need to put it down in thin layers, run the wacker over several times then add a bit more, as @joe90 says a wacker may not be up to the job especially if he did it in thick layers or there is still soft sub soil underneath. It might be worth just leaving it for now and seeing if it settles to a point where it stops sinking further, then lift, re sand and re lay the blocks.

I look forward to the payback time calculations, when you cost the cost of the beer and the chilli, then work out the value of energy produced.

I have done 3 new builds with ASHP's and all that BC wanted was the G3 unvented cylinder comissioning sheet signed by someone they know is qualified. Electrical side of ASHP is covered with the EIC.

I would just squirt some sealant into the crack to try and keep further moisture out and move on. It is not going to fall down any time soon. Don't start any more new jobs, you have plenty to do.

If fuel stops going up, then in a years time it will fall out of the calculation and inflation will fall.

No it won't. This inflation cycle is not driven by the normal over heated economy based on too much consumer spending with borrowed money. This is a world wide crisis due mostly to a war. So if we all go into "survival mode" and stop spending, lots of businesses will go bust but it will not do one jot to bring down the price of fuel, food or raw material.

Just a few random thoughts. If you are buying the house, make SURE it is written into the contract that the FIT will be assigned to you on completion. The actual power generated will depend on lots of things, if there is any shading from trees, your or neighbours roof, even a chimney pot or dormer window can create shading and reduce the output. When you can, look at the inverter in the middle of a sunny day, it will tell you how much power it is generating. And last random thought, has the owner been submitting readings quarterly, or have they been estimated?

I don't pussy foot about with half hearted weed killers. I use Glyphosate based weed killer, currently Gallup XL but every time I need to buy some they have changed the name.

Why do you want a small number of large panels, rather than a larger number of small panels? Why not just find the cheapest way to get the total power you want? Why not match the size of what is there for easthetics? Be careful changing the output of an existing FIT system/

What exactly do they man by dual meter? Do they mean dual rate like E10 or E7?

That raised rail is the track the wheels run on, so they should not be scuffed like that. Has it always been like that? Did that damage happen during install or otherwise during the build or has that happened in use?