ProDave

If it's an 11KV cable there, then you will need a transformer, and the size of that will dictate the amount of power available.

What you need to know is the power rating of the supply, usually expressed in KVA Which is thousand Volts times Amps which for all practical purposes the same a kW (thousand Watts) Ask them.

Do you have a plumbing diagram? What motorised valves(s) are there on the heating side? Post some photos of the pre plumbed tank and UFH manifolds. It sounds like the heating 2 port valve (assuming there is one) is not working. Mine is an older version of the therma V and the heat pump controls the motorised valves. If the more recent ones are the same you need to determine if the heat pump is trying to turn the valves on? If it is this recent, what does the installer say?

I am waiting to hear of applicants post April to see how it works in practice. If indeed it appears the customer no longer has to pay for perceived network upgrades then I might be tempted to apply for more PV. they made it pretty clear last time that if I went 1W over 3.68kW there would be a network upgrade charge. I would like a second PV system with batteries so in theory it would not export anything but I don't even think they allow you to say "but it won't export anything" i still believe they think it might export up to the inverters limit.

You really want to aim for an air tight layer behind the final plasterboard, with enough of a gap for a service void for cables. With a room in roof, it is unlikely you want sockets or lights on the sloping bit of ceiling so no need for a service void there, just put the plasterboard straight on the air tight membrane. With a room in roof it is far easier to run the insulation and air tight layer following the roof line from eaves to ridge and back down again. This means any eaves storage space is warm and inside the air tight layer and you usually vet a very small "loft" space at the top of the room in roof. This means you can fit light fittings in that, and any part of the downstairs ceiling without worrying about the air tightness anywhere. Not only will this make it a better building for just the cost of the air tight membrane and tape, it is also a lot easier to do that trying to make the insulation and air tight layer follow the habitable space. You won't need an air test for a temporary habitation.

Turn the water off, empty the cistern so it is not heavy, then cut the sealant and lift the cistern off. Probably wise just to buy a new fill valve assembly and replace the whole thing.

First of all, that blue float in the bottom picture. If you pull up on it, does the water stop flowing? If so just adjust the little white nut on the connecting rod between the valve and the float. There are not normally screws at the bottom of the cistern, you would not be able to access them with a back to wall pan. The cistern normally just sits on a big rubber "donut" that makes the seal to the pan and is fixed in place with screws at the top into the wall, only your installer chose a tube of sealant instead.

Take the lid off the cistern and post a picture, you should be able to see where it is leaking. Some the lid will just lift off, others you may have to spring the buttons out to reveal a screw hidden by where the buttons were. It might just need an adjustment. It should be possible to unscrew and lift the cistern off the pan. Any larger access hole you need for alterations could be cut behind the cistern where it won't show.

There you have hit another issue. 1.4m retrofits would be hailed as a green success. Lets not let real figures get in the way of a "green" agenda. If real figures mattered then we would not be in the ludicrous situation of cutting down trees on an industrial scale, shipping them half way round the world by sea to feed DRAX and claiming it is carbon neutral. You can see this is all being designed by lawyers in a "it's not my fault" aris covering way so when (not if) we fail to hit our CO2 targets out will come all the "it's not my fault" statements.

I would first survey to see if the existing rear part of the house wall is in line with the main side wall or if that is skewed, that depends how accurately it was set out when built. If you can determine the existing rear section is true, you have something to build parallel too. Same string line as above can be used to measure if that is so. You need to build a stable, temporary timber frame just above shed height about where the extension will build out to, to secure the string line to and make your measurements.

Do you find you are now blacklisted with most BM's now?

I only posted that link as it claimed to do what you want, it is not a recommendation that it actually works or is a good price. In other words if it turns out to be a POS don't blame me.

What's the dimensions of the existing roof, the existing panels, and the new panels? The roof utilisation of the existing panels is very poor, i am thinking instead to re mount the existing panels in portrait orientation, that would make the bottom one overhang the bottom of the existing roof, onto the extension to the roof, and I am then wondering if doing so would free up enough space on the roof for the new panels also portrait orientation and also overhanging onto the lean too extension. Mu gut feeling is by re configuring to make better use of the existing roof, the extension lean to of the roof would not need to be be very big.

Our strip foundations were specified by the SE to have steel mesh, not just rods, embeded in the concrete. No doubt that was because of the trees in close proximity. It was neither difficult of expensive to do.

A random search found this which seems to do what you want. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tenda-Gigabit-Ethernet-Internet-TEG1105PD/dp/B09LQYYDBS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe%2Bpowered%2Bswitch&qid=1682790312&sr=8-3&th=1 "The switch can be powered by the IEEE 802.3af/at compliant PSE through port 5 with an Ethernet cable, and supply power to such PDs as low-power APs and IP cameras through ports 1 to 4."

You won't shift that with a mini digger. Think of the forces it is capable of withstanding when a 20M tree was attached and it was blowing a gale. If that tree in a gale did not move the stump, a mini digger won't either. I took out several very much smaller trees with my 3t digger. It was essential to leave a good length of trunk so you had a good bit of leverage to push or pull at with the digger, and even after digging all around the base to loosen the ground it still took a lot to break the stump free. I think getting someone to grind it out might be the answer. Out of box thought (don't try this at home) cut some slots in with a chainsaw, soak diesel into the slots, set light to it and see if you can burn it out Roman candle style. I accept NO responsibility if you try that, though do post the results.

I answered yes to the watercourse as of course the burn runs through the garden. That never seems to have been a problem.

The lean to does not need a roof. the panels become a roof. Have a read of my "solar shed" Start at page 3 to get to the nitty gritty of the build

What do you hope to achieve from this building? It seems like you are on course to get a building that just about scrapes through the minimum standard required of building regs. But for just a little bit more effort and not a great deal more cost you could have a much better building with much lower heating bills forever. I have not seen a 140m frame building done without at least another layer of insulation over the top of the frame members for some time now, surprised it still meets building regs with just 100mm of insulation.

I had my completed house insured via the broker GSI often recommended on here. At renewal due imminently they asked me to contact them. the insurer I was with has withdrawn from the market, and trying to find a quote from an alternative has brought up that we are in a "high risk of surface water flooding" area. Last time I checked this, it was only a little bit of the farmers field behind us shown at risk and sure enough that did occasionally flood, but more of a little but of a puddle in a dip due to poor draining land than a risk of actual serious flood. Sure enough checking the SEPA flood risk map now shows almost the whole of our garden is at high risk of surface water flooding, which means each year it has a 10% chance of flooding. I have managed to find a new policy and actually at a cheaper price than the old one, but it looks like this might become more of an issue in the future. If you live in Scotland and have previously been close to a flood risk, you might want to take a look at the updated map https://map.sepa.org.uk/floodmaps/FloodRisk/PostCode

I read that as you must provide 1 working charge point, PLUS the cabling installed ready to add additional charging points for each vehicle space you have so those can be upgraded later. for the additional ones, I would just say suitable SWA cable with the ends sealed to keep water out, from the parking space to the consumer unit, ready to be terminated when you want them.

And a tape measure.

I would be completely filling the 140mm gap, then fitting an air tight membrane, battens following each stud and then plasterboard. This makes it easy to seal the building and make it air tight, then gives a service void inside the air tight layer. More insulation, better air tightness, easier for the trades, what is not to like?

1. DO NOT waste your time and money laying UFH pipes on the upstairs landing. The WILL NOT ever get used, more than enough heat from downstairs. Yet the professional designers still show this. Just fit a normal programmer and individual room thermostats. It will tick a lot of boxes for building control and SAP assesment. Many will say you don't need individual room stats but that really only works with a very well insulated house and if you take the time to balance the rooms properly. As above wider loop spacing, and even wider upstairs as that will need little heat. If you are fitting mvhr, don't aim for ACH 3, aim for ACH < 1 Why not aim for the best you can get? to do it properly at build is little cost, it is all in the detail. I would put the downstairs manifold under the stairs then just rely on the heat from the pipes passing too / from the manifold for heating the hall. The hall has so little external wall the heat loss is tiny.

I would just go for a new broadband connection, which should be free. I think you actually do that just by signing up with BT and paying a nominal connection fee of about £60 and they take care of dealing with OR. Then when / if FTTP becomes available then upgrade. At least you will have some form of connection. Open Reach are notoriously hard to deal with, and their database is WRONG. It says FTTP BB is available here where all we had was a very long bit of wet string connecting us to the exchange and very slow broadband. We now have fast wireless (not mobile phone) delivered broadband by an independant supplier.