ProDave

I would first survey to see if the existing rear part of the house wall is in line with the main side wall or if that is skewed, that depends how accurately it was set out when built. If you can determine the existing rear section is true, you have something to build parallel too. Same string line as above can be used to measure if that is so. You need to build a stable, temporary timber frame just above shed height about where the extension will build out to, to secure the string line to and make your measurements.

Do you find you are now blacklisted with most BM's now?

I only posted that link as it claimed to do what you want, it is not a recommendation that it actually works or is a good price. In other words if it turns out to be a POS don't blame me.

What's the dimensions of the existing roof, the existing panels, and the new panels? The roof utilisation of the existing panels is very poor, i am thinking instead to re mount the existing panels in portrait orientation, that would make the bottom one overhang the bottom of the existing roof, onto the extension to the roof, and I am then wondering if doing so would free up enough space on the roof for the new panels also portrait orientation and also overhanging onto the lean too extension. Mu gut feeling is by re configuring to make better use of the existing roof, the extension lean to of the roof would not need to be be very big.

Our strip foundations were specified by the SE to have steel mesh, not just rods, embeded in the concrete. No doubt that was because of the trees in close proximity. It was neither difficult of expensive to do.

A random search found this which seems to do what you want. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tenda-Gigabit-Ethernet-Internet-TEG1105PD/dp/B09LQYYDBS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe%2Bpowered%2Bswitch&qid=1682790312&sr=8-3&th=1 "The switch can be powered by the IEEE 802.3af/at compliant PSE through port 5 with an Ethernet cable, and supply power to such PDs as low-power APs and IP cameras through ports 1 to 4."

You won't shift that with a mini digger. Think of the forces it is capable of withstanding when a 20M tree was attached and it was blowing a gale. If that tree in a gale did not move the stump, a mini digger won't either. I took out several very much smaller trees with my 3t digger. It was essential to leave a good length of trunk so you had a good bit of leverage to push or pull at with the digger, and even after digging all around the base to loosen the ground it still took a lot to break the stump free. I think getting someone to grind it out might be the answer. Out of box thought (don't try this at home) cut some slots in with a chainsaw, soak diesel into the slots, set light to it and see if you can burn it out Roman candle style. I accept NO responsibility if you try that, though do post the results.

I answered yes to the watercourse as of course the burn runs through the garden. That never seems to have been a problem.

The lean to does not need a roof. the panels become a roof. Have a read of my "solar shed" Start at page 3 to get to the nitty gritty of the build

What do you hope to achieve from this building? It seems like you are on course to get a building that just about scrapes through the minimum standard required of building regs. But for just a little bit more effort and not a great deal more cost you could have a much better building with much lower heating bills forever. I have not seen a 140m frame building done without at least another layer of insulation over the top of the frame members for some time now, surprised it still meets building regs with just 100mm of insulation.

I had my completed house insured via the broker GSI often recommended on here. At renewal due imminently they asked me to contact them. the insurer I was with has withdrawn from the market, and trying to find a quote from an alternative has brought up that we are in a "high risk of surface water flooding" area. Last time I checked this, it was only a little bit of the farmers field behind us shown at risk and sure enough that did occasionally flood, but more of a little but of a puddle in a dip due to poor draining land than a risk of actual serious flood. Sure enough checking the SEPA flood risk map now shows almost the whole of our garden is at high risk of surface water flooding, which means each year it has a 10% chance of flooding. I have managed to find a new policy and actually at a cheaper price than the old one, but it looks like this might become more of an issue in the future. If you live in Scotland and have previously been close to a flood risk, you might want to take a look at the updated map https://map.sepa.org.uk/floodmaps/FloodRisk/PostCode

I read that as you must provide 1 working charge point, PLUS the cabling installed ready to add additional charging points for each vehicle space you have so those can be upgraded later. for the additional ones, I would just say suitable SWA cable with the ends sealed to keep water out, from the parking space to the consumer unit, ready to be terminated when you want them.

And a tape measure.

I would be completely filling the 140mm gap, then fitting an air tight membrane, battens following each stud and then plasterboard. This makes it easy to seal the building and make it air tight, then gives a service void inside the air tight layer. More insulation, better air tightness, easier for the trades, what is not to like?

1. DO NOT waste your time and money laying UFH pipes on the upstairs landing. The WILL NOT ever get used, more than enough heat from downstairs. Yet the professional designers still show this. Just fit a normal programmer and individual room thermostats. It will tick a lot of boxes for building control and SAP assesment. Many will say you don't need individual room stats but that really only works with a very well insulated house and if you take the time to balance the rooms properly. As above wider loop spacing, and even wider upstairs as that will need little heat. If you are fitting mvhr, don't aim for ACH 3, aim for ACH < 1 Why not aim for the best you can get? to do it properly at build is little cost, it is all in the detail. I would put the downstairs manifold under the stairs then just rely on the heat from the pipes passing too / from the manifold for heating the hall. The hall has so little external wall the heat loss is tiny.

I would just go for a new broadband connection, which should be free. I think you actually do that just by signing up with BT and paying a nominal connection fee of about £60 and they take care of dealing with OR. Then when / if FTTP becomes available then upgrade. At least you will have some form of connection. Open Reach are notoriously hard to deal with, and their database is WRONG. It says FTTP BB is available here where all we had was a very long bit of wet string connecting us to the exchange and very slow broadband. We now have fast wireless (not mobile phone) delivered broadband by an independant supplier.

I have found another report on this from a different angle with pictures. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-12026285/Man-reveals-toll-four-year-legal-battle-force-neighbours-rip-80-000-extension.html?ico=related-replace-2 Now we have a picture of this rogue extension: So just what did the complainant expect? The extension to be built with a 2 1/2" gap between the neighbours extension and their own that would be impossible to maintain and fill up with debris that would cause it's own problems? God some people can be so petty and vindictive. I am just glad my nearest neighbours house is 100 feet away and I will never face this situation with Mr horrible neighbour.

The court settlement should be "you have effectively gained 2 1/2 inches bu however much of next doors land so you will "buy" it at the square metre price for the area. I would be very surprised if the total area "stolen" is more than a square metre, so even in London £20K should cover that. The only "winner" here are the lawyers and that is the most obscene bit about the whole sorry affair.

That's one thing I will stand my ground. Having built very similar "gable end dormers" these are streets ahead in terms of easy to detail, easy to insulate and make air tight and way more usable headroom than ordinary dormers with side cheeks.

Okay, we want simple. ANYONE including the house owner can buy the ASHP and any required parts, tanks, radiators etc.. ANYONE can install it as long as there is a gas safe person to disconnect the old boiler. Upon submitting the gas safe boiler disconnect certificate, the receipt from the installer and the receipt for the materials (that may or may not be supplied together) and a couple of photographs, the BUS scheme will refund up to £5000.

£85K turnover for compulsory VAT registration.

I am probably not the best to comment as I am winding down my business towards retirement, so not the young keen active person I used to be. But I have never wanted to be VAT registered, for a sole trader it adds a level of paperwork and costs that I don't want and never have. It was the introduction of VAT many many years ago that persuaded my father, a self employed plumber to give up being self employed and become an employee and let someone else have the bother. I have installed (as in wired) a number of ASHP's for self builders who have bought the kit (and will reclaim the VAT) and because I am not VAT registered my labour only charge to them has not included VAT.

I am watching this thread with interest having tried Valspar decking paint and found it hopeless, it comes off after the first winter. Not wishing to try another expensive experiment, I will await what people in this thread say of their experiences. When someone is able to post details of a product they have used that has actually stayed put on the decking over 1 or more winters, I will start to take notice and might even try it.

You are happy that they have to pay £200K costs and demolish an extension, because they could not agree a settlement with the neighbour over 2 1/2" of land? Lots of unanswered questions like why did the neighbours not mention it to them when the first course of bricks were laid when it would have been easy to correct. The press have just printed the click bait, not the full details.

The water from an ASHP is usually heated to a lower temperature, so while a 210L tank heated from a boiler may be adequate, a 200L tank heated to a lower temperature from an ASHP might not be. Top mounted immersion heaters are a poor relation, as another recent thread has shown. Is there no way you can get a vertical tank in?