ProDave

It worked for us. We had an old VW Golf that was leaking where a plastic flange bolted onto a cast iron block for a heater hose. One look at the two rusty studs and nuts holding it on and I thought there is no whay that is going to undo, and I don't want to be drilling and tapping new holes. So Radweld did it and stopped the leak for the rest of the time we owned the car and didn't upset anything else.

I am trying to look this up on a different flood map, but can't find it. Can you post or PM me the postcode of the site please?

Reverse the problem. Tell your screeder to screed level with the top of the box extenders.

Yes I don't want all that "control" and heaven forbid if someone decides all ev's plugged in must be able to discharge to the grid on demand. So should I buy a dumb EV charger now, to put away for when I want one, and dumb chargers are no longer available?

The split roof and roof terrace seems to add a lot of complication, a lot of cost, and a lot to detail to get the air tightness and insulation right, for little benefit. Fine if you have a big budget and you really do want that. A conventional roof that meets at the ridge would be way easier to detail and get right, and if you already have a balcony at first floor level for the view. I would want some more windows in that blank wall, or some form of contrasting cladding panels to break it up. The big overhangs will look nice if detailed properly, but have the potential to look poor if the detailing is wrong. It's all about detail.

I don't like the sound of that. Although I don't have an EV I feel I need to buy a dumb, simple unmetered EV charge point ready for when I might need one, ready to fit when I need it without having a smart meter. I hear talk of EV chargers needing to "communicate" with someone or something. Not at this house they won't

Can we have a floor plan of the house?

I am one of those "fit too high" people because if you fit at the stated height, it looks silly, and if you lean forward to stir a pan on the back ring you hit your head on the hood. And I am not exactly a tall person. I had to shorten the brackets on the present one as it otherwise would not allow it to go high enough for how I wanted it.

This sounds like the "argument" I had with BCO about our stove. I had showed him the instruction manual for the stove showing the "distances to combustibles" but he still went away and then asked for proof. I ended up sending a copy of the whole PDF manual and a screen grab of the one table that showed the distance required then a photograph with a tap measure showing the gap we had was comfortably larger than the minimum required. It seems they want everything spoon fed to them in words of one syllable?

I trusted this to the SE. He specified JJI's on the GF at 400 centres where there were no services down there, and Posi joists upstairs at 600 centres. All rock solid no bounce. except for one detail. Posi'swere specced for the longest span and then continued over rooms with shorter span. Except in one room where the span was interrupted by the stairs so no need to continue through so one room as the over sized joists on one half and smaller joists on the other. I wish I had noticed that and specced them the same.

If the house really is "super air tight" it will need mvhr to meet building regs. Perhaps you have the wrong make of recirculating cooker hood I don't find ours any noisier than a venting one (some of those can sound like a jet engine at full speed) and ours exhausts the air at the sides and we don't notice it.

What is your issue with an ASHP? Heating just low temperature UFH it will use less than one third the amount of electricity than a heat battery will. So your off peak rate would have to be less than 1/3 the peak rate to make it cheaper. If the rest of your house is oil, why do you want off peak? a penalty of off peak is the day rate is higher, so you have to use a lot of off peak to make it worthwhile. The cost of buying an ASHP must be very similar to the cost of a heat battery so would seem a better and simpler choice to me.

How can there be no cover if it's under a driveway? how do you know it is still in use? It sounds more like something disused that was filled in to enable the driveway over it if no lid?

Yes that's it, turn off the electric undo that nut and remove the plastic cover then post a picture of the inside and someone will tell you which is the thermostat. No water will escape doing that.

Does anyone admit to actually eating a Fray Bentos pie? Once as an experiment can be accepted but to eat a second?

This is the immersion heater. Follow the white cable, it should go to a switch on the wall. Turn that switch off. Then remove the screw that is visible in the picture, that holds the plastic cover on. Post a close up picture of the inside and we will tell you what to adjust. No it won't leak water. Turn the switch back on when done or the immersion heater won't work.

Assuming your front door has level access, then you just need normal steps, no ramp etc.

Our BCO just looked at the marks on the panes in the corner stating what was toughened and what was laminated. They only did this for "low level" windows and glazed doors. Unless you have some dodgy non compliant glass (unlikely) that is all that needs to be done. But if you can fit a bit of 4 by 2 in a way you can remove it later without leaving much to touch up, that might be the solution. But I fear that on it's own will not be enough, you will need spindles at <100mm spacing as well.

I got around to watching it today. Well it was a lot better than I expected. Nothing I did not know, but it did seem a fairly clear explanation of what solar panels do and heat pumps as well About the only thing that stood out for me is the typical MCS costs with a payback time of 10 years or more. I was quite impresses by the Octopus development centre and their test houses and training system.

The point of an inlet in bedrooms and living rooms and gaps under the doors, is fresh air circulates all around the house. Your proposal would leave stale air in the bedrooms not circulating anywhere and not getting refreshed.

MVHR is the way to go. Normally it is extract from all "wet" rooms, so kitchen, utility, bathrooms, and fresh air in to bedrooms and living rooms.

Crack on and do it. Keep a copy of that letter in case someone complains.

I would use my quite old digital camera that does not know about such things, rather than a phone camera.

The reason I say patch up the old one, it is will be easier to prove it has been there and in use for a long time. A new one arriving on a low loader and the old one taken away, would be easy for someone to say it's use is new. Post some pictures of how bad the old one is (without anything in the photo to give away the location)

To export and get paid for it, requires an MCS install. Why do you WANT to export? A PV system with batteries should be all for self use imho with export set to 0. That is perfectly legal for an electrician to wire up and as long as you have notified the DNO. The DNO rules seem prehistoric that they only look at the inverter power and assume that is what you WILL export and that is what they give permission for (or not) Try a G99 application for what you want and see what they say. Report back if they talk about charging you network upgrade costs, they should not be doing that any more but have yet to hear how people get on under the new rules.