ProDave

ASHP, heat pump unvented hot water tank, heated to 48 degrees. What challenges are you thinking of?

That is a small outside space in my book.

Yes, the big orange DIY store is well known for this, even when you specifically ask for a "VAT receipt" you still just get a till roll. I just sent o covering letter explaining the situation that all receipts from this company, that is the best they would provide and all were accepted.

How thick is the timber frame? That wall insulation is pretty poor, I am surprised it even met building regs? Where abouts are you so we know which regs it should have complied with? Make yourself a DIY blower door, using an old office fan or car radiator fan. It will let you find where all the air is leaking in and out. Most of the leaks will be lack of detail, there is no mention of an air tight layer so assume there is not one. If you really want to improve it it would be very intrusive, get back to the bare frame, overlay more insulation inside the frame, proper air tight layer, service void, then plasterboard. Something that is oh so simple and not very expensive when building, which is why it annoys me so much that the mass market builders don't do it. I bet your service void is already a plasterboard tent not least with cable penetrations up into the loft. When you next get a windy day, unscrew one of the switches or sockets and I bet you are greeted with a blast of icy cold air coming out of the socket hole.

The immediate thing that stands out for me, was the tile size was chosen to be exactly 2 tiles fit the height of the stove, and then the stove was set into the wall at exactly the right height to make the top of the stove 4 tiles above the floor. A lot of forward planning before you start anything.

I am not sure it is really an electricians job, but at least someone is looking at it.

That is the issue. I have an old desktop with an old monitor and it has a really sharp image. I was given a larger Samsung monitor so thought I would try it. The larger monitor has higher resolution, but I found everything was blurred and no way as sharp as my old monitor. I concluded it was because the native resolution of the monitor would not match any of the native resolutions available on my video card, so the monitor was rescaling to fit making the blurred image. I am still using my trusty old sharp as a pin monitor.

Don't forget legislation coming down the tracks that will demand a minimum EPC on rental properties. Now might be the time to think about upgrading the fabric of the building. I think the eventual target is all rental properties to be a minimum EPC C EDIT: Ignore that, I see the property is in Portugal.

I made a small recess, to house the power sockets and give space for cables etc. That allows you to mount the tv closer to the wall than if you just had surface sockets etc, but the tv is still in front of the wall and covers the recess. This was discussed before and the external dimensions of tv's are not standard so in x years when this one dies or you just want to change it, the next one won't fit the mm perfect recess.

Not understanding what you have. I was expecting a modem and router supplied by your BB supplier (may both be in one box) and the router would have some RJ45 network sockets, and you would connect a cable from there to a wifi access point at the back of the house. Are you trying a solution that receives the wifi from the suppliers kit and relays it?

An un used roof tile vent. I bet the builders miss calculated how many and where the vents needed to go and fitted one too many. That decision needs making early in the build as the roof goes on. Then perhaps later there was a change in the plumbing, perhaps the soil stack did not need a vent but an AAV was sufficient. In the short term I would create a little platform under that and put a bucket there to catch the drips.

Unless you can get the price down I would be going off grid. Solar PV and batteries for small loads and lighting, Diesel generator for large loads, should only be needed occasionally, welder etc. Wood fired hot tub. It would be interesting to see the quote.

The contractor that did ours wanted to see the planning permission and then took my word for it that we had not yet got completion. then they zero rated the work.

At the top of picture 2, where two wires terminate in yellow crimp connectors, to the left and right of that are red dots in the middle of those black blocks. Push those with a screwdriver to see if they push in and go click.

New 3.68kW panels will be 2 strings and will be the max your inverter can take. Then put the original panels on a separate inverter that does not need to be as big. And don't forget to ask permission from your DNO first to have more than 3.68kW

.... But just to be clear, don't tighten the nut until the resin is well and truly set which takes a few hours.

Just be aware if you turn it too far anticlockwise to increase the flow, it might unscrew all the way out, then you have to be quick screwing it back in again before you get too wet. Guess how I know.

You would need to look inside the UH4. I suspect at the moment only two of the UH4 zones are being used, and one of them is connected to both the L1 actuators. You would need to bring in an additional UH4 zone into use, the next spare one with the new Nest connected to that and the new zone controlling one of the L1 actuators leaving the original one as it was. Unless you know for certain which if the L1 zones goes to which end of the room there may be a a "try it and see" element to setting it up. i.e turn one end of the room's thermostat right up, the other end right down, and if the wrong end of the room warms up, swap them over.

Turn the boiler off NOW, yes RIGHT NOW and don't turn it on again until a proper competent gas safe engineer has corrected the issue. Assuming of course you do mean the flue is discharging inside the extension. If you don't mean the flue, explain what you do mean that is expelling "steam" with a picture please.

I am not familliar with your router, could yo post the make and model number or post a picture of all the ports (sockets) on the unit. My initial thought is rather than try to add a second wifi point, instead relocate this one to a more central position so it will cover the whole house.

I would say Electrical Additional Heating, i.e. a resistance heating element aka an immersion heater, probably used if you want the DHW too hot, for a legionairs heating cycle or if it is just too cold for the heat pump to work properly.

It's an electricians job not a plumbers job, that's why he does not understand. Show us a picture of the bottom rail of the manifold. The key will be knowing which pipe loop connects where on the manifold and then reconfiguring the UH4 and adding another thermostat.

It must depend on the material, my box profile roofing and my cheap corrugated shed roofing are both fixed with longer screws through the tops. Some very soft materials may not be suitable for that.

Thread moved to the roofing section. Your issue is most likely the fixing bolts are in the trough of the corrugations where lots of water runs down. They are usually in the peaks, where there won't be flowing water so less likely to leak. Take each bolt out one at a time, apply lots of waterproof sealant and re fit.

When you said you wanted it "raised up a bit" I expected an inch or two. What is going on the floor? I am not sure that stand is big enough to meed the space the "hearth" needs to be around the stove?