ProDave

So what happened to "And should it actually pack in, sensible boiler man tells me that second-hand condensing boilers can be had for £200 or so" And what is your plan with the property? Earlier talk of demolishing it, now it has an EPC A, why would you demolish that? Confused.

If you can get the material covering off, I would splice a new section of wood in the damaged location. At least it won't have to be matching wood if you can get the material back on again to cover it.

I did this when building the airing cupboard in my small bedroom. It was infinitely easier to carpet the whole room before the cupboard went in, rather than try and cut it round both sides of the wall as the same carpet continues inside the cupboard. BUT I then when marking out where the stud wall was going, cut that strip out of the carpet so the stud wall sits on the floor not the carpet. I guess they were too lazy to do that step.

So the flashing lights might be normal, this is not a system I am familliar with, and I don;t think the actuators could be opening and closing that quick. The water flow is pulsing on and off very rapidly, it has to be the pump as I can't see anything else that would turn on and off as quick. Somewhere on the pump on that black plastic box will be some buttons and lights. Try pressing the button to select a different pump mode, and try posting some pictures or video of what the lights on the pump are doing.

More importantly the OSB is there to give the wall racking strength, i.e. it can't fall over sideways like a pack of cards. A very important feature of a supporting wall.

A well known user here @Jenki built his own version of a rigid polytunnel, have a look at his blog.

You have an electrical problem. Are the lights on top of the actuators really flashing? or is that an ailiasing problem with the camera? If they are really flashing, they should not be, and the pulsing of the flow meters looks like a pump is rapidly turning on and off. Post some close up still shots of all the electrical control boxes, pumps and motorised valves etc so we can see what you have. Has it only just started doing this.

The soil at our site is so soft the trench sides would have caved in with that. To do similar on our site I had to put down some old scaffold boards to spread the load futher.

Crushed so they interlock together and are stable, as opposed to round gravel that is more prone to settling.

I used the 90 degree input on all of mine. BC were happy, and it meant no bends in line just straight runs.

The bungalow 0.5m from boundary might allow scope to stand scaffold legs there with permission of course. But do you really want a house that wide on that plot? I would consider a narrower and deeper house preserving decent access to the back garden on at least one side. Having the only parking in front of the house is a red line for me, no possibility of garage or car port.

What is either side? If no immediate building, is is possible to ask one or both of the neighbours for permission to stand one row of the legs of the scaffold in their gardens?

Why is this such a big issue? I wired an entire 2 storey timber frame house with this "problem" The foundations were built assuming a 100mm TF so 100mm block for the inner leaf, but then they decided to build the frame in 140mm. So the sole plate for the frame overhung the block by 40mm on the inside. BC never raised any issues with this and the house is still standing 15 years later.

What is your plan? You say "decking" do you mean timber decking level with the paving? If so you don't need all that MOT1. Compacted MOT1 drains very poorly, you would have been far better infilling that with crushed gravel that would allow natural drainage. At the very least try digging out a bit of the MOT1 back down to soil and see if that drains.

I suggest you delete that file, re name it so it does not reveal your address and re post it.

I read the OP wanted to remove the back box completely and end up with a blank wall. Have I got the wrong end of the stick?

If that is a plasterboard wall, the back box will be mounted on a noggin. I would remove the back box, screw an appropriate thickness packer onto the noggin such that when you then screw a plasterboard patch into the hole it is about flush. Much easier to then fill the gaps.

Are you discharging into a loch? I didn't think SEPA allowed that?

Perhaps one of the other members with a recirculating hot water system can comment. I can see no reason it should stop delivering hot water if the pump is not running, it will of course take longer for the water to reach the tap.

WRONG cable. At the UH8 it is a white 3 core cable connected to the Heat Enable terminals. You are looking at a black 3 core cable there. you need to find out where that WHITE 3 core cable ends up.

Which circulation pump? Do you mean hot water circulation, a system used where you have long pipe runs to the taps to give quick delivery of hot water. If that is what is running 24/7 then rewire it ideally triggered by motion sensors in the bathrooms etc so it only comes on when there is actually someone there that might want hot water. The rest of the time it is just sucking heat out of your hot water tank.

Still not understanding fully. Where it says "exits wall low then through floor" i take it that is 110 between joists under the bath almost to the end, turns right, through 2 joists to WC? If I have got that bit wrong no point continuing until I understand it.

How often? Always at the same time? start logging exactly to the second when it occurs and see if there is a patern. It sounds to me like an electrical contactor (big relay) closing and opening.

I concreted my conder in, you gradually pour the concrete at the same time gradually filling it with water so the water is about as high inside the tank as the concrete is outside it. I was wrongly advised by the installer in our previous house who just back filled the septic tank with gravel. That house now has a tank that you can only pump out in the middle of a summer dry spell, and then refill with water PDQ. To pump it out in winter would be asking for it to float out of the ground.

the DNO use a combine Earth an Neutral core, the outer core of a concentric cable. After the supply head the earth and neutral remain separate so we can't use 2 core concentric cable from the supply box to the house.