ProDave

Just make sure you get a full 23KVA / 100A single phase supply. It might be worth discussing with the electrician to do the wiring as though it were going to be 3 phase, i.e. split between 3 separate consumer units, initially fed from the single phase but would then be easy to swap to 3 phase should it ever become available.

I used the Scholmore ones as the client insisted on "metal back boxes" and I did not want the additional work to fit dwangs to screw conventional metal boxes to. I agree the Scholmore ones have a habit of the springs jumping out and are fiddly to re assemble and I did not use them again. As above though, why do you think you need fire rated back boxes?

This is down to detail. Is this "plaster on the hard" or plasterboard? If plaster to brick or block the back boxes need to be well fitted and deep enough to reach almost the finished level of the plaster. If too deep the spread has to do his best forming an edge in free space. One of the reasons I hate plaster direct to brick or block. If you don't want surrounds as suggested above, you need to build up the gaps and form a corner with a good quality ready mixed plaster.

+1 lovely workmanship.

I would want to go to the shop and physically look at one before buying. the Q&A section, one reply says it does have a non return valve, another reply says it does not.

If a hard water area, soak it in Viakal or similar once removed to disolve the limescale.

So it is suspended? But you only say "likely" Just an amateur suggestion, to determine if the beams are sagging, or it is the screed that was laid with a depression, drill and measure the screed thickness at the centre and the edges.

You need to know if this is an insulated ground supported slab that may have settled (or been laid badly) or a suspended beam system that may have deflected too much. Surely the builder can tell you how they built the house? Do you know if any others on the development have a similar problem?

And if it then deflects further over time? I am not sure I would do that.

We have had Ed keep telling us the only way electricity prices will come down is more renewables. BUT what he does not tell us, is the more renewables we have won't make any difference while we have the ridiculous market set by the highest cost generator, usually gas. So until gas is only used occasionally the prices will remain much the same., A change to the market system could bring prices down sooner, and in a way that gradually reduces as more renewables come on line. Does our next PM have the balls to stir up the market and actually do something?

Have you measured your "50mm" battens? I bet they are closer to 45mm?

Carpet.

Apart from re taping the joints, that would not trouble me.

Why does it need to be more solid? I understood it was just fill of a void and would be covered with plasterboard?

Go got 195 studs then you can get 2 goof layers of Frametherm 35 type mineral wool between studs. Less nasty to work with than other types of mineral wool and is stiff enough to just push in and stay put when cut a little over size. If that does not get the U value you need over board the inside with PIR, no need to cut sheets to fit, butt the edges together and tape them then 25mm battens for service void.