j_s

My builder and I did this too in a retrofit. No need for it I expect but the builder was adamant as he also takes a belt and braces approach.

Did they fit it? Can they come and sort it if they did?

It is very surprising. Our triple glazed warmcore windows relatively recently fitted in our current unheated utility room have no condensation. It is not really cold but certainly coldest in the house. RH is also very high in there and has been for months. Only time the frames and glass got a little on them was with the internal door shut and me working in there for hours getting a little sweaty. As the extract duct is currently sealed the air has got no where to go apart from the floor to wall junction holes/gaps still not sealed. Our bedroom on the other hand these past few nights has been awful but it is a very poorly fitted, poor performing aluminium framed large window on a stone cill and the window is not set in to the reveal so a massive cold bridge no doubt.

Our newish washing machine causes it or as said turning the water off abruptly we get it mildly.

Just an update, BPC gave me a couple of companies to speak to. One is coming out in the next 4-6 weeks hopefully. Do a thorough check over the unit, sort out balancing etc and check the noisy motor.

Yes I'll be adding all three to the 22s don't worry. I'd like to change the 22 to a 28 but I've already had the ceilings off and completely redone elsewhere and I may just have to live with 22. If only I had thought about it when I did that a couple of years ago, ****!

@SteamyTea Copper is already wrapped in plastic tubing, I'll use amalgamated tape to seal up the ends of the plastic tubing to the copper. I will also wrap each electrical cable in the same tape so it joins to each other to seal around themselves ( @Jeremy Harris taught me that one for the loft to bedroom cables) unless anyone advises not to do that. I can then wrap the entire cable set too and then foam around those. I might stick some pir board offcuts in the cavity if I can get a hand in there to do so as a bulker/backing for the foam.

@Nickfromwales Thanks. I'll be using blowerproof paint. Will remove excess wool insulation first. Got to sort out this mess too! So much for the potential for an airsource heat pump in the future! 3 rad feeds coming off the 22mm to a 15mm which then splits off to a 10mm split to 2 more 10s! Luckily they are close to the boiler and all three get hot even with flow temps set lower. I'll still get a better direct feed to each off the 22. Ideally I'd replace the 22 but I am well passed that with all the other improvements we have already made. I assume 35 main pipe diameter for future proofing?

Nope, not at all. It looks like a great door, decent built in closer too. I'm going to keep my existing "internal" grade firedoor, possibly go for a new oak veneered one, will see. I'm going to look at building a timber frame and add 25mm pir board to it. Magnets on the timber frame and corresponding magnet points on the garage side door frame. Add some straps to the timber frame for removal. May not be needed once I have finished work on the utility room improvements. I'm sure it will help but may be marginal.

Here is a what I have to work with which is not much at all unfortunately.

Price back was around £1300 including VAT

Have done so the other day but they are closed until the new year now so will see if I get a reply.

@zoothorn I had a vague recollection you may have mentioned the curtained off area before. IR thermometer on the ceiling or borrow a thermal camera to know once and for all where all the cold areas actually are rather than guess work?

As per @PeterW said and then maybe a curtain at the bottom of the stairs too? A bit clutter-y but could help with making the lounge less of an ice box and a relatively cheap test compared to digging up the floor?

Ok thanks @craig I suspect I'll end up paying a fortune in building an aesthetically pleasing frame for it all as well as the price of the blind itself. I'll have to have a think about it. Is there a way to supply at least a rough price for an opening of 1200mm x 2400mm ?

Good point @craig Is there a way of knowing a rough size that might be needed for the section at the top based upon a window opening of 1200mm ?

Any rough prices on these Defendoors?

@Thorfun , are the blinds on the pricey side or reasonable. The fact that a lot of it is bespoke makes me think they are quote costly. My requirement is privacy along with south facing windows (with 1 west) and after that 40C weather earlier this year wouldn't mind trying to keep those rising temps at bay for a little longer.

Is there any way any of the blinds mentioned can be retrofit and opened/shut manually without an electrical connection? I'm thinking of 4 in total for our main bedroom which has a 1.2m x 2.4m opening but is hard up against the soffit, 2 for our kitchen and 1 for our large landing window. The kitchen ones are to replace integral glazing blinds as the the existing aluminium windows are very poor performing frames but with the replacement windows, they won't do triple glazed integral blinds, only double glazed, even though other manufacturers seem to make them. I'm going to assume my requirement is either not possible or extremely cost prohibitive but I thought I would ask. I did come across Skirpus in Lithuania as another option.

Just north of Nottingham, just over 5 Mins from j27 on the M1. Vent-Axia Kinetic FH unit. Thanks James

I still haven't balanced my MVHR unit yet and it's been running for years as this was retrofitted into an existing home. I've now got an issue with one of the fan motors' bearing starting to fail as there is a lot of whine all of a sudden and BPC reckon a new fan motor is required based upon the audio I sent them. I can't afford to have the system off for long if it's gets cold again so ideally I need someone in that knows what they are doing and get it done quickly and also balance the system at the same time. Does anyone know of a company in/can visit the East Midlands to do this please? Thanks.

Would love to fix mine, poorly laid polystyrene insulation somewhere in the floor with various draughts where the plastic sheet/ radon barrier wasn't folded and fitted properly around the perimeter 🤬. In the rooms I've renovated it has taken me hours and hours to fix those junctions with doubt at the back of my mind that it wont be a long term fix. I hope it will be as airtight foam, tescon tape and blowerproof used excessively.

Speedfit 10mm ch pipe fits on my gun plus taping it with electrical tape to stop it forcing the pipe off as the foam flows. Only issue with the longer tube runs is the pressure needed on the gun. The foam does come out a bit differently too, at least with Soudal blue flexi airtight foam.

Base boards off and can of expanding foam to pb/wall/floor junction? I did this in mine although I couldn't get access to it all. Gun didn't like being in the side on position much either. How quick can you get hold of compriband?

Cheers all. I'll get it opened up and take some reference photos. I'm sure the builder will have some ideas too. I have some spare thermalites we could cut carefully and mortar in (sleeving the pipes of course) if we can get enough access space.