MikeGrahamT21

True, but I was on about pulling energy from the grid.

Thats 3kWh more than i've used since back end of february

I stand corrected. Makes sense it wouldn't be instant from a safety perspective I suppose

Things have probably come on a long way since i last looked, this facility isn't important to me however. Running a Single Battery i'm getting 1.8kW max output at the moment, which actually is covering a good 90% of my usage, but always have the option of adding another battery for full 3kW if i see the need, or can get a bargain US2000C. There are tangible and non-tangible benefits as with most things, in the case of Battery Storage the non-tangible benefits are more towards your eco conscience, though this is on the slim side too when you consider mining of materials to make the battery, and also its disposal at end of life, though the disposal element should have changed considerably by the time my battery is end of life. Knowing you aren't pulling much from the grid is a nice feeling.

I think the Powerwall 2 is the only unit which seamlessly handles power outages for the whole house, others just have a seperate port where you can wire a socket up

I did indeed press go, and so glad i did with the way energy prices have gone. I'm going to write an end of month addition to my blog about it, as i've discovered lots of things which just aren't mentioned online, things which are worth knowing. In terms of the pylontech and solis inverter, yes really pleased with them, wouldn't hesitate to recommend.

You'll never notice the difference, its just because its denser than standard plasterboard.

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The manufacturer quoted u values assume that the installation is perfect, a continuous layer with no imperfections, no gaps, and no air movement. in reality you’ll knock it and damage bits when you put it in damaging the structure, you can of course make it airtight and gap free, which you need to do, and you’ll have have a psi value to consider, in that there will be thermal bridging in some areas, which can be mitigated by installing more insulation where this occurs. Also remember that any foil side must be followed by a 25mm airtight gap to make use of the foil for low emissivity, otherwise I’m pretty sure it just becomes a conductor being metal, read this a while ago somewhere, makes sense really

I have a SunnyBoy also, SB4000, haven't had any issues connecting via bluetooth from my laptop. Have you updated the firmware on it? You can do it with an SD card. Also, connect it up to the LAN (if you have a WebConnect module), and use SunnyPortal

You need one of these... https://www.solenenergy.com/solar-1/inverters/solis-data-logging-stick-wifi-sol--dls--w And Solis Cloud app... www.soliscloud.com

Not many power cuts round where I am either, have had the odd one over the years, but nothing more than a minute off, so I didn't have the backup socket wired in, though I could do that myself later down the line. Yeah the Tesla Powerwall is absolutely the best value for money, but for me that amount of storage is just far too much. Yesterday had the washer on, dryer afterwards and cooking my dinner and tea, and used very little from the grid. Export has now dropped to zero, haven't exported anything since it got installed, and also have managed a full charge yet, just not been sunny enough. Worth noting that because i'm on a deemed export tariff for the Solar FiT, I'm still being paid for 50% of what i generate as a deemed export, even though nothing is going out at the moment. One thing I did notice last night when cooking (around 18:00) was that the battery storage inverter couldn't react quickly enough to cover the induction hob, which pulses, so it drew around 800W from the battery, but it was still importing around 100W from the grid, so worth taking into account, wasn't something i'd even thought about. At present the battery is drained before I head to bed, this will alter as the days get longer, and this led to another discovery. So the inverter is set to not discharge below 10% SOC, however the battery does still discharge very slowly, but what i've seen is that it tops up a little from the grid through the night, and then discharges that to loads, the little and often bump on the graph through the night is the fridge freezer. Cost per kWh - £2450 / 3.3 (usable) = £742 Very happy with the 3.5kWh Battery at the moment, thinking what I would gain from another 2.4 may be minimal, but will see how this evolves.

https://www.tigoenergy.com/product/ts4-a-o TS4-A-O Description Optimization is a Flex MLPE function available as an integrated modular junction box base (TS4-O) or as an add-on unit (TS4-A-O). Design using unequal string lengths, mixed orientations, or areas of mismatch. Install in shaded areas with a reduced setback ratio. In addition to optimization, the TS4-A-O enables module level monitoring, and rapid shutdown in compliance with NEC 2014, 2017, 2020. Functions Optimization Monitoring Rapid Shutdown Features and benefits Suitable for up to 700W solar modules The higher performance optimizer with Predictive IV Technology (PIV) The ONLY optimizer with selective deployment Includes the benefits of Safety & Monitoring Meets US NEC rapid shutdown requirements Optimizes right out of the box Shade and age tolerance to maximize lifetime yield Works wirelessly with the TAP & CCA Configuration 1 module per TS4 Required CCA + TAP Says the CCA and TAP is required on their website. we are also assuming that the OP has got the optimisation tigo ts4 modules as well and not one of the other versions

Sounds like you've got the Tigo TS4 modules on each panel, but then you haven't got the gateway that they are suppose to all connect back to in order to work even connected up, so at the moment those Tigo modules will be doing absolutely zero. It needs the gateway in order to know which panels are dragging the string down due to shading. Wire the gateway up, get all the modules connected and then monitor it. The tripping needs investigation, I'm not an electrician, however I don't think a fault DC side would cause a trip AC side, so its more than likely something on the inside wiring. I had a very similar issue for many years when I had solar installed, always seemed to happen Nov/Dec when generation was low and it was damp. In my case it turned out to be nothing to do with the solar farm, it was a cable on the main ring main which had been sliced clean, and someone had just taped it together with fabric tape!! All wiring now replaced and it hasn't tripped for years, nothing was changed on the solar.

After pondering battery storage for many years, and then the energy prices rocketing this last year, i finally decided to give energy storage a shot, working out how it would sit financially was extremely difficult, and a little bit of a finger in the wind, but as the batteries have a designed lifetime of 15years now, and energy prices rarely go down, I figured it would pay for itself with some profit over the long term, whilst also reducing my carbon emissions and reliance on the grid. As i'm just dipping my toe in, i've decided to just get a single US3000C Pylontech Battery for now, meaning that the max discharge W is around 1.8kW. I will see how this fits in, which will cover most of my loads, and if I see fit I can add a US2000C later on to give the full 3kW discharge. Went for a Solis AC Coupled 5th Generation Inverter, the graphs it produces are really informative. Will get round to taking the rackmount bits off at some point. Example of the graphs available: I will add bits to this thread over time about electric consumption. My annual consumption at the moment is looking to be around 1200-1300kWh before the battery, Export sitting around 2400kWh as excess from the solar farm, so be interesting to see what these figures do over the next 12 months. Cost so far £2450 including installation which was £650. An additional US2000C will be £748 if i decide to go ahead.

Yeah that was my thought. Bulk of the bungalow is still on originals, now 50 years old, but mostly under cover of solar panels, so not planning on replacing them a moment before they need doing!

Good news delivered ??

Never planning on moving, the tiles would have been in use around 30 years, and in their original form. lead times and price aren’t on my side, but if it’s not worth considering then I’ll go with new. Also thinking of the environmental side of things?

Sorry! Thought you were on about the ground floor floor! Ignore me, though airtightness membrane maybe still needed depending on what your trying to achieve

Never balance insulation without support, tried it and it dropped through and had to re-do. For fluffy insulation, use a breather membrane (with the direction facing underground to let moisture pass that way not the other), lap over the joists and fix battens at the bottom of each joist to hold it, then put insulation in, this will also stop airflow affecting the insulating value, and give a small degree of airtightness. For full on airtightness, then over lay an AVCL above the joists and insulation, before the floorboards go down.

What would you do for a lean to extension roof Buy brand new (I need around 230 tiles) Use old tiles which are unbroken and free. Plenty of the neighbours have got lots of spare tiles from having dormer conversions over the years, so getting them wouldn't be a problem. With price and supply issues i'm leaning toward the reclaimed, and they still should last a considerable time... but what would you do?

Aren't your existing house bricks these... https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/lbc-heather-red-65mm-BRLBC062 All looks fine to my eye, and don't forget they will weather and darken over time anyway.

These do installation, though not advertised, it gets subcontracted, and will sort all of the paperwork out for you - https://www.solar-battery-energy-ev-store.co.uk/ Also, these offer to pay more than the standard 5p (20p), in return for grid balancing (I think), maybe worth considering? - https://social.energy/homeowners/

Your u-values look good...if you've achieved them. Check for gaps, airtightness and thermal bridging. £4.5k is a lot to spend when you've so much insulation already. Also...did the other side of that roof melt in a similar manner? If not, it could just be the sun warming up the very dark tiles + a bit of heat leak, wouldn't take much to cause snow to slide on the smooth surface.

Don't risk dot and dab, one crack in the blockwork (which is highly likely with drying out) and you've had it.