MikeGrahamT21

It looks like using blocks in block and beam is a bit outdated these days, i found several systems where high strength EPS blocks are used for the infil, which are designed for no thermal bridges, it wraps under the beam. What is the issue with just sticking some PIR on top of the slab, and then float a chipboard floor on top of that? Appreciate you'd lose a bit of height, but surely worth it?

The Zehnder one was this: https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/product-category/mvhr-ducting/comfowell-modular-air-manifold-silencer-system/ CleanBox has been fantastic, just swapped the filters over (not the carbon filter as thats still filtering smells fine), and now running a G4 and a H13 HEPA filter. Old vs New on both the ones i swapped:

My builders used Xtratherm T&G on my extension, and they thought it was a revelation, made it so much easier, and no snagging your trowel in the fluff!

Just found this as an approved retrofit application: https://source.thenbs.com/product/energystore-under-beam-block-insulation-system/bhJN6zXr5iSRNwvFAYrW9G/bSUUubuFs5fkWDGuLZbRzW

I have 2 ducts which pass through a double wall (block cavity construction) from the loft into a vaulted ceiling, and these needed intumescent seals, as the wall is classed as a fire wall.

Also think about the subscription required for Ring too.

Also have a look at wood wool boards, which will also give some acoustic benefit too, recently saw a house with the entire ceiling done in them and it did look really nice

Not sure if I missed this above, but is there no option of digging out the old concrete and starting again with a modern buildup? another option, for limited space is vacuum insulation panels. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/products/insulation-boards/floor-insulation-boards/optim-r-flooring-system/ or aerogel https://enviroform-insulation.com/insulation/solid-floor-insulation/

im with you @ProDave having installed MVHR in a very leaky house, still the best money I’ve spent so far

Try the profile manufacturer, I got better results going this route

Yeah odd that it doesn’t detail them, apologies I should have read all the way down that manual, the Liniar installation guide does show adjustments, I’d be very surprised if it were very different to be honest. have you spoken to schuco to see if they have anything?

This is a blind guess, but there’s others too https://5ec-alu.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/ASS-70-FD-Operation-manual.pdf

If you open the door you’ll see where the locking pins go in, these can be adjusted to pull the door in more. If needs be you can also raise the doors, assuming it’s on a bottom runner, by raising the wheels, mine was done with an Allen key. if you look for the profile manufacturers documentation there should be a guide dedicated to this, mine are Liniar and have one

I’ve heard people say this before, when I submit my readings I have to agree that no changes have taken place, but I did ask the question about moving solar panels to another orientation years ago and was told as long as it’s on the same MPAN and that doesn’t change then it’s all OK, it was all a bit grey area so decided not to bother in the end, plus the fact it was going to be £1000 to do the works

They are, but its better to be safe than sorry. Boilers (and any gas appliance) shouldn't be operational in negative pressure atmospheres

And don't forget to turn off your gas appliances, including boiler!

Yes I had SE to specify foundation spec, lintels and roof fixings though BC never asked for this, so what you see on the plans is what got passed by BC. When you dig out for foundations you get them to inspect, and they'll tell you there and then if they need to be deeper etc, though as long as the ground is solid then you are good. Foundations on this particular build were slightly narrower than normal to save on concrete, was viable due to low loads, generally you would have 150mm overhang on the concrete either side of your walls

Take a look in my blog, may give you some pointers to draw your own plans like I have done many times over the years. It’s not easy, but certainly doable. Get yourself a house builders bible book, great book to have to hand! good luck if you go for it!

Morning All, So I'm on the feed in tarriff as i'm sure many of you are, from around 2016 time. Majority of us, me included would be on a deemed 50% export rate of around 5p/kWh. Obviously there is also the newer SEG which was introduced, and Octopus Energy take that even further by paying a fixed 15p/kWh or an agile rate based upon market rates. Now up until recently, I thought if you were to move to the SEG, you would have to give up your Feed In Tarriff, which would have been a big no-no, however I have since learned that you can split off your Export, leaving your Generation Tarriff fully intact. So I have signed up for Octopus Outgoing Agile, and they are currently creating me a new unique MPAN for export only. I'll give Agile a shot, and if it doesn't pay, i'll go for the fixed rate. Even with the battery storage i'm still exporting a lot, so this should pay dividends. Not sure if this is common knowlegde, or if i'm just a bit late to the party. https://octopus.energy/outgoing/ From their blog: Under FiT guidelines, you get paid for being a generator, and paid for whatever you export. You won’t be able to receive FiT export payments whilst also being on the Outgoing Octopus tariff. However, you will still be able to receive your generation payments. When you sign up to the Outgoing Octopus, you will be required to opt out of your deemed export payments from your existing FiT supplier (but there’s no requirement to switch your FiT contract to Octopus.) For new installations (that is, after the FiT closure date of 1/4/2019) we’ll still require a copy of your Microgeneration Certificate Scheme (MSC) certification in order to get you onto the tariff. 50% Deemed was one option under FiT for getting paid for your export. This is often the case where an export meter wasn’t fitted and so it is was assumed that 50% of the solar energy generated would be exported (the other 50% being consumed). This is calculated from the installed potential output of the solar panels at the time of install. You may find you are still better off keeping the Deemed 50% than switching to Outgoing Octopus - for example if in fact you are exporting only 20%, or if the solar panels aren’t optimally oriented to supply the potential output or have deteriorated over several years. As the FiT Export rate is now 5.38pence and our flat rate is 15 pence then you are better off with Outgoing Octopus if (average over the year) you export more than around 50% of the installed capability. Hope this helps someone out there!

proof of postage? in terms of batteries they essentially just grab any spare energy which is grid bound, so the immersion will go first til it his temperature or end of schedule, and then the batteries will mop up anything thereafter, battery will always be the last thing to take energy and only if nothing else can be done with it

Warranty subject to Ts and Cs, have you had a read of them? See if it says in there that this is normal practice. I’ve had to pay before for this type thing and then get a refund later

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Superior-Tool-37516-Internal-Cutter-One/dp/B004Q05TTC ?? Or with a guide to help guage depth: https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/plastic-pipe-tools/internal-pipe-cutters/

I've a 1960's bungalow, temp in living room at midnight was 17.5C and by 6am was 15.5C giving a heat loss of 0.33C per hr. Room is very airtight, but still has double glazed window (approx 2.2-2.4Uw) and no external wall insulation on the external wall, approx u value of 0.45. I still need a further 50% energy savings to get to enerphit standard, so by no means a passivhaus.

Mine are the 66 variety, and painted rather than PU. Its currently -4C outside, room is 15.8C and 51% RH and i've nothing on mine, just ice on the outside. Your window seals haven't been adjusted right, you see where its kind of folding back on itself on the right, you need to pull the top seal to the left to get this out. The strip of condensation on the straight bit is odd tho, must be something different there for it to collect in that specific place, and it'll likely be installation.

You’d definitely get a performance increase from what you have now (likely air filled DG with aluminium spacer) to (argon filled DG with plastic spacer), but glass prices are high at the moment. Definitely replace the gaskets, adjust the locking mechanisms and take out any beading which has air leakage, it may have just been installed incorrectly (I found this on one of mine, a bit of packer was in the way preventing it from driving home), if the beading is damaged a local window firm should be able to get some, it looks like standard stuff to me, and after all that there’s window film which can achieve some of the low emissivity benefits, and that little lot shouldn’t cost too much. also removing the trims and quadrants can uncover bad jobs which can easily be improved with a bit of time and effort. a few of us on here have used this company, including me, their prices seem fair and you can play about on their website to get quotes without having to go all in…https://www.modernupvcwindows.co.uk