MikeGrahamT21

Or alternatively do what I did, and stick an appropriate euro cone in a standard TRV and Lockshield, and have the 16mm MLCP straight into the radiator, no connectors needed. Let me know if you want any photos, and I can get some. As for laying MLCP in concrete, i can't see an issue, pretty much what they were designed for.

Mine came from https://www.roofgiant.com/ who claim to not be beaten on price, but they were already the cheapest. I think from memory you can sign up to a newsletter and get some money off too. Check prices once you've decided on your model code, as they effectively all come from Velux direct anyway.

How the window is hung is entirely up to you and how it will be used. Think about cleaning, top hung would have to be cleaned from outside where centre can be done either in or out the decision to go triple is down to how far you want to push thermal efficiency, are you trying to obtain any certification? I have both double and triple velux, the doubles I bought first when I didn’t know better, there is a huge difference in the temperature the glazed units reach in both winter and summer, so think carefully! Especially as the summers are getting hotter, 2G gets to around 70C but the 3G only around 38C in full south facing sun. also as prodave suggests, condensation is less likely/almost never on 3G

what’s the set back temperature set at and what temp does it get down to, to make the boiler fire? again I can only comment on Tado, but this system if it detects temperatures falling it will act before it gets below the set point to prevent the temperature from going below, perhaps your system does something similar? perhaps there’s something more fundamental at play here? Assuming it’s a modern enough boiler to have its own automatic bypass valve, you shouldn’t need one elsewhere in the system, but is there one somewhere that is perhaps bypassing at the wrong temperature? Are all your radiators functioning normally to provide some load for the boiler to heat, and not restricted too much by the lockshield?

If you control is smart and internet connected this could do the weather compensation for you. I have Tado and mine does just that. Get in touch with them about it, remember it’s a computer and more than likely to have bugs

I agree, try 55C and see if it helps

Sand them down, wipe over with a damp cloth and let dry, and then get yourself some Tesa 5225 Crack tape, and your choice of finishing filler, gyproc easifill is ideal, fill over the tape and feather in, then sand down, mist coat and paint https://www.brewers.co.uk/product/NT3721805J But yes absolutely nothing to worry about, purely cosmetic

performs just like silicone, real easy to tool down, and get a good shine on it if you need that finish. Last lot I smoothed with finger and soapy water, really must get some tools, been looking at fugenfux silicone spatulas but they’re bloody expensive!

As I said before, CT1, Hybrid filler and sealant, has the strength and flexibility, but is also paintable.

CT1 before decorating, ensure frame is super clean and run a bit of fine sandpaper along window wall join to give a better key. silicone is OK til you come to redecorate. definitely not caulk, always ends up cracking

A favourite blog of mine has written about this compared with Go, and created a complex spreadsheet to calculate costs between both tarriffs: https://protonsforbreakfast.wordpress.com/2023/02/23/tariff-calculations-octopus-go-versus-octopus-flux/

absolutely, there should as a minimum be a continuous bead of adhesive along both top and bottom of the plasterboards, pretty sure that’s been the official guidance from PB manufacturers for a good while

Thats an excellent thermal image of why dot and dab is so bad!! Without ripping it all off, you could drill holes along the perimeter all way round, but only where it sounds hollow, the solid bits will be where the dots are, and inject some FM330 airtight expanding foam, but not silly amounts, this should seal the gaps up. In my experience though, its slightly pointless, you would need to do top, bottom, and corners, but even then, a crack in the mortar or blockwork (very common with most traditional masonry construction methods), will again let air circulate in the cavity between plasterboard and blockwork. Its a very hard problem to solve without taking everything off and wet plastering. You may be lucky and get a parge coat which would possibly solve the cracking issue, but if its a developer house, i wouldn't expect that. Expanding foam top bottom and corners inbetween the dots may give you some resolution.

If you are looking for seamless, you need to be buying a mesh network product. I've had Tenda, connected to router, and then ensure you turn off the routers wifi, but I've now got a TP-Link Archer setup, the router itself has OneMesh built in, so just had to buy a compatible Mesh adapter to join into it, works a treat. Got the VR600 from Ebay (Be careful you get one which does support OneMesh, as they don't all support it), and adapter off amazon, both bits cost me the grand sum of £60, Tenda setup was similar price. The 'mixed signals' you speak of is because the BSSID of the Wireless network will differ on the extender to the router, meaning you'll get a disconnect and reconnect. A mesh network allows you to keep the same BSSID on all devices, and 802.11r allows fast roaming, no loss of connection.

And don't forget the upstand all way round!

Yeah that article I linked kind of goes into that a bit and perhaps suggests they just take the easiest approach.

Are you not able to use fixing clips off of the frame for top and sides to the inner leaf? They should just be to stop movement, and not actually load bearing, all of the load should be on the bottom. http://aluminiumwindows.co.uk/blog/strap-fix-fit-bifold-doors/

My export MPAN request has now been accepted, so should be registered in the coming weeks, and then will consider this once its launched

Interesting, thanks for highlighting. I've just started the application for Octopus Outgoing, to increase my export from 50% deemed at 6p to actual export (near 50%) at 15p. This tarriff would increase that to min 23p, and max 36.5p, with the ability to also charge the battery during the cheaper period through the night in the winter months. Will keep an eye on this as another potential to be better off. I don't have, or plan to have, an electric vehicle so the Go tarriff is not for me anyway

That answers that concern, thank you!

Induction hobs in general are great, had mine for years and you can really tell the difference even in the air over cooking on gas. The built in extractors look good in practice, the ones i've seen in showrooms look slightly ugly (but then i guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder right?), but i think my main concern would be my classic trick of spilling something, pan boiling over, or dropping food down the holes. No idea if thats even an issue or not?

Ahh i get what you mean, i thought you were floating this over the top to get rid of both the gap and the thermal bridge from the internal blockwork. How about something a little bit like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175408005770

I got a sample of this stuff ages ago and it’s rather crazy, you can screw into it like timber. you should be able to fix it to the inner leaf, either with metal screw and washer, or you could use a shortish plastic external wall insulation fixing like these: https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-dipk-insulation-render-fixing/p42435?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAiA_6yfBhBNEiwAkmXy5wOfdWzUTcYgnzaAqhy3S3hBgsFY4-7cYfyyzzq_fauWaT1pXgvM9RoCTeQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds you may well need to look for a smaller pack size tho!! 😂

You wouldn't use foil tape to make the join to the masonry, it wouldn't stick properly for a start. The masonry is pre-primed with airtight primer, and then in this case I used Tyvek Airtight Tape to make the seal. At the top of the roof, the insulation butted up to the timber wall plate, so I used the foil tape here to make the join as it adhered fine.

This isn't correct, you can use foil tape to form a VCL, and since i've done this myself i know its done right. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/knowledge-articles/what-is-the-purpose-of-a-vapour-control-layer/