willbish

Yeh looks alrite, is that marine ply or hardwood structural? You could have used Purenit to insulate. I had to buy a whole sheet and have plenty off cuts lying around, too late now though!

It is much the same as CaberDek, just a different brand. It useful in any season, especially if you've got wet trades around with muck splatter everywhere. The alternative is to lay a temporary deck until in the dry, which is what I've chosen to do as I didnt think I would be finished before the chipboard had started to deteriorate (timescale on this up for debate but definitely longer than the guaranteed 42 days) and I also had a cheap source of used OSB sheets.

@amavadia I paid just over £5.00 for 40 litre bag from Woodhort Shapren. Delivery included and returned unused bags back to them. I ordered 50 bags and only used about 35.

Completely seal at the top if you are going to fill it. No need to vent unless there is a void, where moisture could be present. This is a picture of mine that I filled earlier in the year. Bear in mind its very difficult to estimate volume when ordering Leeca!

If you have access to the chimney stack or are planning roof work soon (scaffolding) then I would seal the bottom with a steel register plate and fill the void with Leeca. Which is a lightweight blown aggregate insulation. Cap off the top and no need to ventilate as it is fully filled. Alternatively, if you can't get to the roof, then a chimney balloon can temporarily seal the bottom and stop your warm air escaping up the chimney.

Two recent incidents with the same pair of helping hands. Bless him, would put his neck on the line for you anyday but how he has lived to 60 years old I don't know. 1, putting up kwikstage scaffold, already second lift high but we decided to adjust one foot and level. Whole scaffolding started going over, my first reaction was to jump clear and let it go crashing down. His reaction, get under it, arms way above his head, and hold the whole bloody lot up. Saved a couple hours work and damage to the boundary wall but can't help thinking it wasn't worth the risk. 2, Same guy, 650kg 12 metre steel beam being rotated into position under crane with tag lines.180° rotation nearing completion so he decides to tie tag line to the scaffold on which he and 2 others were standing.? The screams of NOOOOO we heard for miles!

Roof build up Rafters OSB Membrane Counter Batten Batten Tapco Slate From what I've seen eaves ventilation usually assumes you will be ventilating under the membrane so the membrane is often shown over the ventilation strip/system. Im considering an over fascia ventilation strip and wondering if I can I put the membrane between the fascia and the strip. Or is there a specific product designed for this situation? I'd prefer not to have the first slates resting on fascia but can't see any other way at the moment

I had some concerns with mine that the EPS would be able to hold back concrete at 300mm deep. The EPS was 200mm thick around the perimeter and each section around 900 long with a solid profile that locks each section together. I shouldn't have had any doubts, the Isoquick system was excellent, it didn't move or bow at all during the pour.

I'd recommend getting some weight on top of the EPS pretty smartish because as @Red Kite has said it could float and move. Yep I reckon it'll be fine, especially with the thickened perimeter, gives somewhere for the water to flow to.

My raft was out for sometime because it took me weeks to do the rebar cages.Wish I'd done like @Russell griffiths and bought them ready tied up. During that time (September) it rained a fair bit but the sun came out and dried things. At one point I used a wet vacuum and brush to get rid of most of the water. Only because I'd had enough of paddling around in an inch of water. It doesn't need to be bone dry for the pour either

Water on top of the raft will at least hold it all down. Although depending on how much rebar is specified will do that job. I think you could just leave it all over Christmas and then pump out in the New Year. No need to run around on Christmas Eve looking for a new pump if one goes bang. Just it let it fill up. Does water have more ability than concrete to force the sides out? I wouldn't think that to be the case. Concrete is significantly more dense than water.

My initial thought was that you'd be deceiving potential buyers if you advertised the house as with a garage. If it suits your needs and you're not planning to sell then why not. But 2 metres deep is not a garage in my eyes, maybe workshop? Is that a shower tray in the corner of the garage?

Try posting here, you might have more luck https://www.facebook.com/groups/104378576603439

Yep that's right. Im planning to use a passive type hatch with class 4 airtightness. U value is not too bad at 0.50 and I was thinking to install a PIR plug that would sit in the top to boost the insulation

Thanks @Jeremy Harris My loft space is designed for lesser horseshoe bats, one of the requirements is it must equal the volume of the roost that was lost when the old property on the site was demolished. 32m3

I wish it was that simple, Im following a mitigation strategy proposed by an ecologist and approved by Natural England. Deviation could land me in the sh*t and not the good guano kind!

My (limited) understanding is that even without warm air leaking into the loft, condensation can form when naturally moist air inside the loft cools overnight and condenses on the cold loft floor. The guano is the only benefit for having to house-share with bats! Guess we'll collect it just to stop it covering our attic junk

I fear i may be building a house that is susceptible to loft condensation. Thanks for bringing the issue to my attention @Sensus, although I'm not sure what, if anything, can be done to minimise the potential issue. Fortunately I am currently building the roof structure so there may be time to make some changes. I have to have a cold roof (loft) to accommodate a bat roost. The loft space will naturally be fairly air tight (ICF gables, OSB sarking on rafters) with one letterbox sized opening for the bat entrance. The first floor ceiling insulation will be 300mm of spray foam under a 22mm P5 deck and between I-joists. My ridge runs North to South and the house is in an exposed location on a ridge of high ground. With prevailing winds from SW What is the likelihood I am creating a problem? I doubt there is a definitive way of finding out before I finish the build. Possible ways I could alter course during the build: -More letterbox openings, but as discussed more ventilation may not be the answer. -MVHR input into loft space to warm the area. Would unbalancing the ventilation system compromise it's benefits. -Insulate a small amount between the rafters to increase the temperature of the loft space

With joists you'll have a greater delta T to contend with. Air temperature being a lot colder than ground temperature in the winter. So you may need more insulation if using joists for same performance.

I thought it was the joints in the PB that create acoustic weak areas? Double boarding allows you to cover the joints. Not sure where I got that info, I expect it was on BuildHub somewhere.

@dpmiller 20mm?

Yes I had a similar experience, very helpful discussing options and providing quick quotation. £5590 inc VAT at 0% for 3 phase

Thanks for the comments. From what I've now read it looks like the G98 regs should/could work in my favour. I'm thinking to go back to the DNO and say: "thanks for the increase to 3.8kWp. I will now be installing 6.0kWp split equally between an E/W roof using a G98 certified 3.6kW inverter on a fit and inform basis. My electrician will send you the correct testing and completion paperwork. If you're not happy come and take a look yourself." @Nickfromwales No batteries from the outset @scottishjohn If I had 3 phase, 16A per phase would be ample.

Great, thanks for the info

So where they've previously said the 16A limit applies to the whole installation not just the export, that is now irrelevant? As long as the inverter is G98 compliant I can crack on with a decent sized array and don't need to continue any further negotiations? Because my roof is E/W split I would prob put something like 3.0kWp on each side. Being limited to 16A isn't going to affect my overall generation significantly, if at all.