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willbish

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Everything posted by willbish

  1. My negotiations with the DNO continues. I'm reviving this thread as I'd like a bit of inspiration or possible directions to take the discussions. Their latest position is that after upgrades have been completed (at their expense) following a 'fit and inform' of 16A per phase, the network can then support a massive 3.8kWp of PV. In previous discussions last year they said that 16A limit applies to the whole installation, not just the export. Is there any way I can convince them otherwise? What methods of export limitation are there that I could propose?
  2. For ease of installation you could hang the posi's by the top cord directly onto the steel. No need for any timber packing then. Top chords are 35mm deep. That will give a void top and bottom. This is what I did and its worked well. My posi's were 195mm, steel was only 162mm. This means the steel is below the bottom of the joist by 2mm which will require a bit of work come plasterboarding time but I think that is easier than packing the steel and 60+ hangers. I wouldn't worry about people telling you need a professional to spec this. My 'professionals' weren't paid enough to think about this level of detail.
  3. Hi @Zurg Unfortunately nothing to share about tadelakt yet. I'm currently getting the roof structure up and have some way to go before bathroom finishes but tadelakt is still on my list of definitely maybes. Please let us know how you get on as there isn't much info on here about tadelakt and other plasters
  4. The LPA have now recatagorised these documents as sensitive, this means they can no longer been seen publicly through my neighbours application. I incorrectly assumed they had been uploaded by my neighbour to assist his appeal when in fact the planners had used the documents to determine the outcome of the application. I'm not certain whether the LPA made an administrative scanning error and that is why they appeared online. Or whether this is usual practice. Either way Im content they have now been removed and I am no longer associated with this application. I doubt any lasting damage has been done to my impeccable reputation!!
  5. Nice one thanks @PeterW That looks like a neat solution.
  6. Perhaps by putting a layer of ventilated ridge roll under each side
  7. Is it possible to combine a ventilated dry ridge system with a lead ridge? Or to put it another way a ventilated lead ridge.
  8. Stuck on this bleddy tugboat so no chance of any roofing again today. I don't doubt it would take an age. Especially as my batten spacing is 190mm for slates. Just wondering why these guys thought it was a worthwhile use of their time. Perhaps the ventilation is a lot better. I think the ends of the batten would regularly split when fixing.
  9. I found this picture on instagram interesting as Im soon to start a similar roof build up. They've cut hundreds of small pieces instead of using lengths as counter batten. Is the ventilation advantage worth the extra work? Its an Australian build but don't they need to use treated timber I'll be using GSE solar mounts and this method would work i think, and potentially allow increased ventilation and performance of PV panels. What do you reckon?
  10. Yes this is what appears to have happened. The LPA has used my documents to assess if there was "any additional overlooking". These documents have been "attached to the file for scanning" and now appear on the website as part of the original application. I have emailed the LPA asking for the documents to be removed from the website. My issue is not so much with plagiarism but appearing to publically assist the applicant. Many other neighbours are not happy with the applicant and I'm an inclined to agree with their views although I have not made any public objections. My belief being that the LPA will act in the best interest and refuse applications which are inappropriate. The issue we have here is the applicant doesn't consider a refused application a reason not to develop/build and so we are in retrospective application territory.
  11. New development. I emailed the planner saying I was surprised to see many of the new documents uploaded had been lifted from my application. I also queried the relevance. She comes back to me- "They were attached on 7 October 2019, the plans were relevant as I used them to assess whether there was any additional overlooking during the course of the application. They are attached to the file for scanning as they are useful if the applicant appeals the decision. I can only assume that they are clearing the old files away and have scanned the files in one batch. These plans were not submitted by the applicant." Now I'm assuming the LPA can use documents from previous application for their own benefit? I don't like seeing my documents publicly attributed to this application but it's not a big issue for me really and I doubt there is little i can do.
  12. This is very true, Im struggling to see the relevance for the block plans etc let alone my internal floor plans.The documents aren't accompanied with any text submission so I'm really at a loss as to how they benefit his case. The initial application was refused and I now believe he is going to appeal. He is using a planning consultant who really should know better. One of the drawings is my own, a SketchUp plan of the highway showing driveway entrances. Signature box has my name and details.
  13. Can my neighbour download site, block plans etc from my planning application and then upload them to his own (ongoing) application? He hasn't changed any details to make them look like his own documents, they still carry my architects 'signature box'. I was very surprised to see these drawings, some of which have no relevance to his application such as floor plans. A bit of courtesy by asking permission would cost nothing.
  14. Are the strip footings shown on the drawings? And do you have a build warranty to satisfy? Worth considering that the BCO you are dealing with might change throughout the build and the next BCO may have a different opinion which could cause a headache if you don't follow the SE design.
  15. I had a huge amount of rebar in my 90m2 raft. Two layers of A393 mesh, perimeter cages and lateral cages criss crossing the middle. Steel cost £2.2k Rebar for the ICF house on top was only used above window and door openings. £200 Amount of rebar varies depending on brand of ICF I believe.
  16. Got a few other 'jobs' while you're at it
  17. Thanks for your replies. The stone wall on the boundary is to be taken down and rebuilt so when this happens I'll put a root barrier under the footing. It's a shame he's planted them now because it's going make rebuilding the wall more difficult when the time comes.
  18. Should I be concerned about the 5ft trees my neighbour has planted just the other side of my boundary? He's planted a row of mixed Hawthorne varieties the closest being 5.0m away from my raft. The ground condition is pretty poor here, the raft is 300mm thick throughout with significant reinforcement. I'm reluctant to rock the apple cart with the neighbour; we have a tolerable relationship! Im also reluctant to start asking questions of the raft designer. NHBC guidance seems to make reference to existing trees when designing rafts but doesn't mention or recommend minimum safe distances for new planting.
  19. My understanding perforated pipe is used for collecting water a la french drain stylee, where it is then sent to a soakaway. Although it is used in leach fields to distribute waste water post septic tank/treatment plant but I dont think this is what you are building
  20. This post might have what you are looking for
  21. Agree with @Sensus on your options but I wouldn't consider you a fool if you proceeded to ignore the Heritage Officer without a planning consultant onboard. If you are required to take further action by the LPA, that would be the sensible time to engage a consultant and not before in my opinion.
  22. Hi @AdamSee Thanks for sharing your experience. I have a quote, well two now, second is just for the board only. I think if I'm going to use it, I will go for a half and half approach. Using normal P5 chipboard around the perimeter and then TorBoard everywhere else. This might reduce the cost enough to make the extra expense justifiable and will avoid passing the pipe under the joists with the spreader plate method.
  23. Thanks for the explanation. I dont have the height to build up off the joists unfortunately, (can swallow 6mm for ply) so no option other than to take the pipe under the joists.
  24. Pretty much although it has 'prebonded heat diffusers'. I'm awaiting a sample. But I'm guessing very thin aluminium tape stuck on top. Fortunately I'm not that concerned as my heat demand is low. Other brands of routed chipboard recommend aluminium spreaders are pushed into the board before the pipe. I could see that turning into a massive task.. Joists are already in unfortunately. What was your method when laying the pipe and having to go under the joists instead of notching them? I'm imagining this to be an awkward job that involves pulling the required length of pipe off the decoiler for each loop. Then feeding the snake through the joists being careful not to snag on the metal webs. I've considered attacking the job from underneath, fixing pipe and aluminium spreaders to the underside of the P5, that'll encounter the same issue but maybe more suitable if working single handed.
  25. There’s very few mentions on the forum of TorBoard or any other chipboard grooved to accept UFH pipe. I’m trying to decide if paying extra for TorBoard is worth the minimized installation hassle when compared to using aluminum spreader plates. Lots of you seem to have used aluminum spreader plates but I’m imagining a difficult job pulling pipe through posi-joists as they can’t be notched. Is there an easy method? This is how the pricing looks 22mm P5 chipboard (£7/m2) and aluminum spreader plates (£14/m2) Vs Torboard (£24.8/m2) plus 6mm ply on top at £4/m2. I’m assuming pipe, fixings and everything else balances out. My heating demand is very low, upstairs UFH isn’t really a necessity but I would prefer a fitted system rather than having to plug in electric heaters on the coldest of days. Because of the low demand I’m also considering a ‘half arsed’ job, where I make sure a smallish area of each room is covered with spreader plates and pipe. A similar style could also be achieved with TorBoard but I would then still need to cover the entire floor with 6mm ply. Any thoughts always appreciated.
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