Chanmenie

The windows were not free, he said he didnt have to pay for them until he got the mortgage money

So is the Mixergy tank worth considering in your opinion John ? if not whats the best alternative

Having checked on their website it appears Mixergy make a specific heat pump tank which is optimised to work with heat pumps, I was considering a Mixergy tank with a Vailant heat pump.

I’m about to start my build with Isotex, insulhub run training days at Swindon where you get the chance to have a go. it is quite straightforward so long as you follow the guidance. Do a search on here for Isotex and you’ll find a couple of builds by Tom’s Barn and Keith65 well worth a read and there’s some good pictures

Are yours attic trusses ? The roof designers said with the 222 joists and 197 rafters at 600 centres I’d be at 60% of allowable deflection, plus there will be some internal walls down the middle, non load bearing but they will stop the flex, the bit that has no internal walls will be 400 centres

Similar size to mine then, I was planning on counter batons as I’m doing the wall plates at 2.5m how wide with your upstairs rooms be ?

I had a quote for some PVC windows, it was more than Scandinavian Alu clad timber, by quite a margin You can guess what I said 😀

Do they span 14 Meters ? mine will span 8.7m, with 222mm joists I’m hoping there won’t be too much bounce.

I have the same question for my patio doors. So if you leave a course off which is 75mm but if the threshold is say 35mm deep what would you make up the 40mm ? Is it a case of cutting the engineering bricks lengthwise

saw this article and wondered how many potential houses could be suffering similar issues if windows not fitted correctly. I appreciate its in America but could easily happen over here. https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/rotting-walls-in-a-sip-house?utm_source=Newsletter&utm_content=GBA+eLetter&utm_medium=Newsletter&oly_enc_id=6799F8366167I0Z

Why not make it easier and remove that great big corner pillar you can easily reverse in then.

That looks a really good solution thanks for sharing

Thanks for update I’ll think I’ll submit mine next week, might as well get the ball rolling.

That’s interesting @Nickfromwales I have been considering some PV, my ridge runs S-N so was wondering if West facing PV panels would work well enough

I was told they cannot currently discharge any drainage conditions, due to some legal issues. But I wish you luck as I’m in the same boat, please keep us posted.

I have decided upon attic trusses, the cost of the steels and then paying chippies to make the cut roof came to a very similar price, but would take much longer. My chalet bungalow not as big as your house, but the principle will be similar.

My walls are 380mm, I went with 600mm and that’s still a bit tight, so I would go with at least 600mm, 450 with 400 walls would be a nightmare. I was lucky in that I only needed to go 700mm deep as on sand and gravel.

Difficult to compare Ideal combi are quite different to the others, didn’t like the way the frames join together if you have an opening next to a fixed. Allan Brothers are cheapest so far but their showroom is so far away, so not likely to see their products in the flesh. Norssken were competitive but again not actually seen their product in the flesh, other than what they had in a display house at Swindon. Kloeber we’re very nice but higher end price wise I have found a local supplier for Scandinavian Alu clad timber who’s also does Reynears lift and slide doors so will probably go with them.

No you still need to check for leaks

Yes I did that, weak solution of water and soap works best, use the same for finding punctures in tyres

Because I could not find a water leak so deduced it could only be air and the only place air could leak out is the expansion vessel

I had same problem but could not find a water leak anywhere, turned out to be the shrader valve on the expansion vessel, so a £1:50 fix

Do you need bother with retrospective planning application? I built a 28 x 12 brick and tile extension to the back of my house without planning permission, when I sold the property 7 years later the buyers solicitor queried it, I said no planning permission but showed them evidence it was built 7 years previously and they were happy, didn’t suggest it was worth getting retrospective permission.

Thanks again @PeterWthat’s how I read it, so as I’m building with ICF (Isotex) I do have the option to use traditional method of running a copper pipe out through the wall and fitting a cage round it, or would it be preferable to use the HepVo waterless trap and discharge to an internal drain.

Thanks @PeterW the only minimum distance I can find is the 300mm minimum length of pipe below the tundish valve before any bends, or am I missing something